xjbomber

So I'm hooking up the prestone kit it says to hook it up to the inlet hose will that be the one tht runs into the thermostat?

xjbomber

I'm using the prestone flushing kit, is the inlet hose on the 97 xj the one that runs to the engine from the heater core?

or the hose that runs to the water pump?

5-90

I don't like those plastic flush fittings - I've had too many of them break.

You can make one from hardware store parts for only a bit more than that kit - get a T fitting in 3/8" NPT, get a 6" nipple (you'll cut this in half,) a close nipple (goes in the branch,) and a 3/8" NPT to 3/4" hose Bibb adapter. And, get a metal hose Bibb cap (they're out there.) May as well pick up a handful of garden hose O-rings while you're about it.

Get them in brass, it will last longer.

Cut the 6" nipple in half and debur. Install each half into an arm of the T, using sealant (I typically use PTFE paste.) Turn one-half turn past finger tight. Sand the cut nipple vigorously - you want the surface to end up a little rough (this is why you don't want galvy - you'd end up sanding the zinc off.)

Install the close nipple into the branch of the T. Turn one-half turn past finger tight. The hose Bibb adapter goes on the other end of the close nipple - tighten similarly, with PTFE paste on both.

Use two clamps on each hose connexion - space 1/4" between clamp straps, and try to get at least 1/4" between the bitter end of the hose and the clamp strap (and, try to get at least 1/4" between the clamp strap and the cut end of the close nipple inside. "Close enough" works - you just need to double the clamps because you don't have a hose bead on the tube.)

You picked up a batch of the hose O-rings because you'll want to replace the O-ring every time you pull the cap off to backflush - but that's cheap. Two years of service in that environment for an EPDM or Viton O-ring is plenty to ask, and you're better off just replacing it. Keep a spare in your spares box (where you keep the extra fuses, bulbs, and relays in your vehicle) as well - it won't go amiss (and this should be done whatever T fitting you use.)

If you clamp the hose shut between the T fitting and the firewall, you'll force the water to go through backwards when you hook up to backflush. This is good - scale in the system builds up like fish scales (used to water flowing over it in one direction,) by reversing the flow you can "get under" the buildup and loosen it.

Since you've got muddy coolant, I suggest the two-part powdered flush (the flush is oxalic acid powder, the second part is a neutraliser.) Follow the instructions exactly, with one addition - after running the neutraliser through the system, backflush with the hose for a minimum of five full minutes.

Drain the system to get the tap water out, refill with an appropriate mix of distilled or R/O filtered water and antifreeze (do not use tap water for the fill!)

Flush every two years or just before major service (get the crud out with the old parts,) and using a regular concentrated flush will work neatly at this point. Chemical flush, backflush with hose, drain, replace O-ring, and refill.

rrich

When you mix the different types you can get muddy brown color. (think about it - what does orange and brown make?) The PO may have done it, or a quickie oil change place. Not necessarily a head gasket problem.
The problem isn't the dolor, mixing them can cause a reaction that makes like a sand - plugs and wears everything out.

Be sure to completly flush it - then add whatever you like - no more than 50/50

BTW - it holds slightly less than 3 gallons.

If it still leaks, get it pressure tested.

xjbomber

5-90 u should make them and sell the for non mechanical folks like myself