SergeK

So here in florida, the temperatures are plummeting into the 60s!!!! Anyway, my car always had cold start issues. I have to put the key into the "ON" position for a few minutes until I hear clicking/popping behind the glove box. During the clicking and popping, my battery light and check engine light start flickering and once the pops are done, my battery light is on, check light is one, and now... My car will start.

The car will NOT start until the batt/eng lights are on after some popping goes on behind the glovebox.

If I drive the car for 30 minutes to work, let it sit for 30 minutes, then have to go somewhere. I get in, put the key to on, and wait for the batt/check light to pop up and then off. Then the car will start right up.

But now that its cold, not only do I need to go through that whole ordeal, but then it takes me a few attempts to get going. Ill get the car started, roll down the street a bit and it dies. Restart right away, get a few mnore blocks. Stall at a stopsign. Restart get a few more blocks and bam, stalls at a stop.

AFTER THAT! it runs fine the rest of the day.

Ive checked grounds, cleaned ICV, replaced fuel filter.

I just wants to know whats making those clicking sounds. Chances are, thats my problem. Capacitor that takes too long to charge? Bad relay?

Mattloz

im balso having cold start issues and live in miami but i just did a engine swap to a 90 cherokee. anyways i don't have your pooping or lights going on. but try this when cold spray some brake clean into the throttle body (not to much) and turn it on if its runs check you're fuel filter spark plug gaps and spark cables and pickup on distributor

im going to be performing this same steeps because mine runs fine when hot and after 30 min of sitting but 4 hours later the car won't turn on unless i spray break clean

this is just a tip this may not resolve your issue wait until you get more info from other people because i need more info my self

SergeK

I really think its something with the computer or the relays in the fuse box.

When its warm out, the Battery light and Check Engine light turn on right away (they shut off after a second) and the car starts right up.

When cold, I have to leave the key in the on position until the batter/cel light turn on and then off. This can take anywhere from 15seconds to 5 minutes depending on the temperature outside. The car will start once they blink on and off.

It seems that the ECU takes a while to power up in the cold, maybe blown capacitors. Once it warms up or powers on or whatever, then it kicks on the CEL/BATTERY light and actually starts when cranking. Feels like there are blown capacitors and they take a while to charge up.... I had a TV with this problem.

Heres a video.


Ill crank a few times with no start. Then the battery and cel light start to come on. If you listen closely just before when the Battery light pops on, youll hear faint clicking. Once the lights go out completely, car starts fine.

Mattloz

what year is your jeep i have a 1991 jeep cheokee ecu that i can sell if you need one it was a running jeep about 3 months ago untill i took its heart out

it was my grandfathers jeep with 76,000 miles but body was rusty so i bought another jeep and swaped motors

SergeK

1995

Also I've never seen any other jeeps with the same dash I have. No gauges for temp or battery. Just on off lights.

Mattloz

i have the same guages also its normal for the battery light to stay on while ignition is on untill you crank it and the oil pressure light turns on then back off while in ignition mode

Mattloz

i believe the ecu fits not sure if 4x4 makes a difference because mine is 2wd

golfmiser

Could be the capacitors in the ECU. Let it get cold again and take a hair dryer out there and heat up the ECU. If the check engine light comes on as soon as you turn the key then I would look at changing the 3 capacitors in the ECU.

SergeK

This is the kind of answer I was looking for!


Thanks.

Mattloz

there you go try that i believe in 95 the ecu is in the engine bay, if you need one let me know i have on at the house

SergeK

Thanks a ton. Ill see if I have time to do it tomorrow before work or friday morning.

SergeK

You guys think I can stick it in the oven at 170 degrees for a few minutes with the oven itself off?

Mattloz

uhhhhhhh......... i wouldn't risk it it contains plastic and thin wire in the circuit board i would try a blow dryer or you can buy a cheap heat gun at harbor freight.

SergeK

Okay so still havent had a chance to try my little experiment. But I found out yesterday that all the clicking that occurs when the battery light and CEL light are starting to light up are the relays that are next to the battery.

EDIT: It is the autoshutdown relay. I have tried a different relay in its place and it still does the same clickity clackity after the key is in the on position for a bit. Once clicking stops car starts right up.

SergeK

I have 100% confirmed its the PCM/ECU/ECM. Tried one out of a different jeep, same year. Started right up but died after two seconds. Looking for new PCM now.