Today I was wheelin and lost the 3 bolts on the driver side and 1 on the passenger. And the 2 that we're left we're backed out. Tried to put new back in and they are all stripped. What are my options without pulling the motor.

 

Now there's a good one. Someone here should know better then me. I wonder if you can jack the engine up high enough to drill and tap for larger. (without removing the fan) & exhaust.....

 

Try this. I did the pass side on my '95 and I could only use one stock bolt location. There are also numerous posts on other Jeep sites if you do a search,


http://browndogindustries.com/


Mealticket

 

Probably the best solution.

 

Thanks looks the be just bolt em on. I'll just keep my 14mm socket handy for now. She won't be off road for a bit.

 

Yeah, bolt-in solution. I struggled a bit with that pass side and did need some tech support which included me sending them a pic of my setup but it was all good,


MT

 

I didn't see a price. What's that look like? In a cense doesn't much matter I have to do something as I have learnt these things are very capable.

 

Look along the left edge under 'Products' and select your vehicle and go from there. I paid $160 for one bracket and re-used the mount that bolts to the frame. It sounds like you need both sides but there is a discount for both,


Mealticket

 

Ordered these Thursday hope it doesn't take to long. I received an email saying it is in que for production.

 

Just out of curiosity, how you loose engine mount bolts? Is it because the body flexes while wheeling and they pop out or the mount gets sheared off?

 

Nope. Here's how:


From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com



This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

 

The engine was rebuilt by the PO and the auto place uses an impact on everything. The were stripped. And yes they fell out while I was wheeling. I have one solid on the passenger side. Thought I got lucky and had no damage. But she's leaking oil from the rear main. For now no wheeling and I keep an eye on then daily. Some people don't give a crap.

 

Cripes.

Screws come out with a buzz wrench (if needed,) and go in using a hand torque wrench.

When getting tyres on my vehicles, I specifically instruct the manager that I am not to see a torque wrench within two metres of my lugs. Period. I give the modified torque value, and specify a hand wrench. If I see someone using a buzz wrench to remove OR install my lugs, I will either throw a large, heavy object at the "tech" - or I will just charge into the shop and disarm him, probably thrashing him about with his own impact wrench.

Compliance, to date, has been 100%.

(Modified? Yeah. For various reasons, all of my lug studs are treated with never-seez - so install torque is reduced by 50% to prevent damage or stripping.)

 

Yeah unfortunately I had to pay for my lift to be installed. When I strained the left one taking off my wheels to do u joints I shouldn't of been surprised to find my caliper bolts stripped. Then not disclosed! No wonder he only drove it a mere 500yds.

 

I was able to get two off the three out of a fellow member 4.0 with a angle drill and a short drill bit with a small easy out . It was a pain but it is possible but time consuming.