My Brakes Are Crap
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My Brakes Are Crap
Ok I have an 89 cherokee and like every stokc one the brakes suck. I was wondering without having to go all crazy and change alot of stuff how can I make them better? I have add a 6.5 lift and 33" tires. I have changed the pads and turned the rotors. When driving I have a real hard time stopping. Before my lift I had the same problem I have to pay attention and be ready way in advance. We have bleed the brakes too and still suck. Some Ideas would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
With 33" tire the only thing you can do is to "go all crazy and change alot of stuff", or go with smaller tires. I'd start looking at doing a rear disc swap.
#7
CF Veteran
Ok I have an 89 cherokee and like every stokc one the brakes suck. I was wondering without having to go all crazy and change alot of stuff how can I make them better? I have add a 6.5 lift and 33" tires. I have changed the pads and turned the rotors. When driving I have a real hard time stopping. Before my lift I had the same problem I have to pay attention and be ready way in advance. We have bleed the brakes too and still suck. Some Ideas would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just bought new pads that are a carbon or something I can not remember. I could not find ceramic so I went with them they were the best Auto Zone offered. Could I have a problem somewhere else?
#10
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You might search on using a WJ booster. Saw you LSD thread, you realy don't want to swap in a Grand Cherokee rear, especially D35. You can swap the brakes. you will need to get them from 93-95 to keep same bolt pattern.
#12
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my pedal was soft and spongy. same as you, i had to start slowing down way in advance.
what i did was went to a wrecker and grabbed a booster/master from a 99 cherokee for 25 bux.
the only problem i ran into, was the brake differential block was divorced on my 90 and the 99 was bolted to the booster, so i just unbolted it and bent the lines so i can hook up the front line, then had to get another line made up as it had a bubble flare on one end and a double flare on the other end. cost me 4 bux.
once hooked up, i bled the system to fill with new brake fluid and now i can stop on a dime with 36 inch tires and stock d44 rear drum brakes.
oh, i forgot. i had to drill out the booster rod and grind the end flat to hook up my brake light switch. very easy.
oh, and this is my 1000th post, hope it's not a waste, i was looking forward to this post. haha. (is this what changed my status to veteran? woot!)
cheers.
what i did was went to a wrecker and grabbed a booster/master from a 99 cherokee for 25 bux.
the only problem i ran into, was the brake differential block was divorced on my 90 and the 99 was bolted to the booster, so i just unbolted it and bent the lines so i can hook up the front line, then had to get another line made up as it had a bubble flare on one end and a double flare on the other end. cost me 4 bux.
once hooked up, i bled the system to fill with new brake fluid and now i can stop on a dime with 36 inch tires and stock d44 rear drum brakes.
oh, i forgot. i had to drill out the booster rod and grind the end flat to hook up my brake light switch. very easy.
oh, and this is my 1000th post, hope it's not a waste, i was looking forward to this post. haha. (is this what changed my status to veteran? woot!)
cheers.
#14
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 inline six
brakes
Also dont forget bigger tires requir more pedal wich means more pressure.More pressure means that your stock rubber lines will expand.Look into some better lines that might help to.
#15
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
want better brakes? swap in a 96 Brake booster and Master cyl. the dual diaphram booster will be a huge upgrade!
want the best mix? do a 8.25 rear axle, with a disc brake swap. up grade the booster/master and then do drilled rotors with Hawk pads.
want the best mix? do a 8.25 rear axle, with a disc brake swap. up grade the booster/master and then do drilled rotors with Hawk pads.