my jeep got spraypainted :(
12-21-2011, 01:45 PM
#20
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Location: Summerville, Ga
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
x2 on the aircraft remover, 30 minutes and you'll have that car dripping paint down to the bare metal... Just used this on the 66 mustang, took off 12 coats of paint, im sure it'll take a single paintjob off with ease 
DAM YOU MOTHER NATURE
12-21-2011, 04:36 PM
#22
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Seriously a bull**** move. Such chicken $hit. Makes me want run them over with it the way it was and be like sorry b**** the paint job had me distracted. >=/
12-21-2011, 06:15 PM
#24
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Location: Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L
More of a lurker, less of a poster...
I'm a car painter.
Acetone and Lacquer Thinner are "almost" the same thing. "Solvent" grade LT is closer in makeup to Acetone and "Paint" or "Thinning" grade LT is more refined than Acetone or Solvent grade LT. I wouldn't use Solvent grade LT or Acetone on a car's finish. I would try a solvent based auto body "Prep" first. I use RM/Diamont 900. Some NAPA stores sell paint, they can get a solvent prep for you. It will be the least aggressive of the bunch and shouldn't harm the finish.
If LT is on the paint too long, it will soften the clear coat. You have to work quickly with LT. It will dull your clear coat so you'll have to buff it once the paint is off.The dullness will quickly buff to a nice sheen. Again, don't work too long in one spot or you can soften and blow through your clear coat.
Blue paper shop towels will do. Bounty paper towels work very well too. I wouldn't even bother trying a cheaper paper towel, BTDT.
As far a cleaning plastic surfaces.... There's a good chance that any of these chemicals will leave them looking dull and chalky. Buffing that chalkiness will probably make it worse... sometimes a heat gun will bring it "back to black" but it might look uneven... You might just use a product called "Back to Black". It won't last forever but it looks good for a while. Bondo has a thick black dye called Restore Black that is wiped on. It will take a few coats to make it look even but it does last a long time.
Hope this helps, good luck.
I'm a car painter.
Acetone and Lacquer Thinner are "almost" the same thing. "Solvent" grade LT is closer in makeup to Acetone and "Paint" or "Thinning" grade LT is more refined than Acetone or Solvent grade LT. I wouldn't use Solvent grade LT or Acetone on a car's finish. I would try a solvent based auto body "Prep" first. I use RM/Diamont 900. Some NAPA stores sell paint, they can get a solvent prep for you. It will be the least aggressive of the bunch and shouldn't harm the finish.
If LT is on the paint too long, it will soften the clear coat. You have to work quickly with LT. It will dull your clear coat so you'll have to buff it once the paint is off.The dullness will quickly buff to a nice sheen. Again, don't work too long in one spot or you can soften and blow through your clear coat.
Blue paper shop towels will do. Bounty paper towels work very well too. I wouldn't even bother trying a cheaper paper towel, BTDT.
As far a cleaning plastic surfaces.... There's a good chance that any of these chemicals will leave them looking dull and chalky. Buffing that chalkiness will probably make it worse... sometimes a heat gun will bring it "back to black" but it might look uneven... You might just use a product called "Back to Black". It won't last forever but it looks good for a while. Bondo has a thick black dye called Restore Black that is wiped on. It will take a few coats to make it look even but it does last a long time.
Hope this helps, good luck.
12-21-2011, 06:42 PM
#25
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
i'm a resto shop and have seen this before as well as what happens when people try to fix it... prepsol (body prep) is the best bet on the paint and smooth trim... as far as the textured trim at the beltline.... your painting it dude.. if you want a nice matte black you want a "trim black" otherwise there are plenty of areosol plastic bumper paints out there... paint all the trim over... cleaning products are hit or miss and the jeep side plastics fade out anyways... by the way you got off easy i'll take spray bomb over keys anyday
12-21-2011, 06:56 PM
#26
12-21-2011, 08:52 PM
#28
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll say again. Prep Solvent. Trust me. I'm a detailer.
I even gave a demonstration to a salesman once, I sprayed black paint on my own hood, let it dry, then sprayed Prep Solvent on it and wiped it right off.
(I was trying to prove why that paint protection kit we sell is a scam).
I even gave a demonstration to a salesman once, I sprayed black paint on my own hood, let it dry, then sprayed Prep Solvent on it and wiped it right off.
(I was trying to prove why that paint protection kit we sell is a scam).
12-21-2011, 09:16 PM
#30
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter
NO NO NO........to the solvents. Just wet sand it, with like 2500g and 3000g. Then use a rubbing compound and claybar to bring the shine back. You will truly be removing the spray paint and your paint as well, with the solvents. It doesn't matter how careful you are.