bluejeep2001

The coolant tank on an open system builds no pressure, the only purpose of the cap is to keep dirt out and to keep the coolant from splashing out. Find a way to secure with a bungee of rubber band or wrap the spout with a layer of electrical tape to make the cap tighter

Lou4130

I figured id keep this thread going rather than start a new one so all the info is in one place. I still have a list of things to do to at the very least get it to pass inspection.
So over the winter i didnt do any work on my 2001 XJ Sport and it sat with weekly starts most of the winter aside from a few visits to the Vet for one of my cats. But weather is starting to get nice again so although i am out of work, i am trying to fix what i can.

When i got the XJ the owner said the right rear bearing was going. The jeep has a sort of grinding type sound, but not like straight up grinding, almost like something on bearings with not enough lube..someone said it sounded like an aquarium lol..it kind of does. I can only describe it as a "rough rolling" sound. kind of like a skateboarder going down a hill. It only happens when the Jeep is rolling/moving. It doesn't change when i brake, so i'd gather its not brake related. I feel like i hear it inside the car more than outside. When i roll the windows down i can't really hear it well enough to determine a location. At any rate, i assumed this was the wheel bearing i was told about. Thinking a bad bearing can cause a catastrophic event if it straight up fails and locks up, i figured i should do this first as its not an expensive job. So yesterday my buddy and i changed out both rear bearings and seals. The right seal was definitely leaking and we are pretty sure no one has been in that rear end cuz the gasket was still present and most folks dont bother with a gasket on the rear ends and just RTV it. So we are guessing this is the first time it was done. (my XJ has 198K miles on it) So was due time anyway!
However..on the drive back to my house (my buddy lives about 5 min from me) that sound is still there. So if its not the wheel bearings, what else should i be looking at? I didn't see anything scraping or rubbing. But i will check again. I have to go to the supermarket so i will try and record the sound if that would help. Supermarket is 5 min away.

Dave51

Diff bearing, prob pinion?

What kind of rear axle? Not an 8.25?

Lou4130

im 99% sure its the Chrysler 8.25

Ugh that would suck. that is not a job i could do :/

Dave51

Hmmm, look of surprise. You have to tale the back cover off on 8.25, yank the axles, spin stuff around. Seems to me if it were a diff problem you might have heard something. Maybe it ain't.

Did you try turning the radio up?

Dave51

Universals OK?

Lou4130

We didnt even think to do that cuz i was fairly certain it was the wheel bearing. I went to his place and we just did the wheel bearings. I did notice though when we had it on the stands and in neutral and i just spun the wheel i heard a VERY similar sound. So it may very well be. Cuz now the wheel bearings and seals are brand new.

Lou4130

I believe so, but didnt do a thorough check on em. Was so focused on the wheel bearings lol. I will double check more carefully though.

Lou4130

[2001 XJ Sport] So through further research, and from members here, i was farily certain this sound was the rear pinion bearings in the Diff. So because i dont have a proper place to do the suspected pinion bearings issue (sounded like a skateboarder going down a hill, and then put that sound underwater) and do it properly, i brought it to local mechanic with good reviews, his suggestion was to replace the entire rear end cuz there was damage in there from it being driven like that. Which, i dont doubt since it has made that sound since i got it in Sept. (Dunno how i didnt hear it during the test drive lol) I used it to go to some job interviews and once i landed a job, i took it to work for about 2 weeks and then stopped using it as i didnt want to cause MORE damage. Anywho, He said by the time i rebuild the entire thing it would end up costing the same or more than just replacing the entire rear end. Since i have heard many folks say to just get a new rear end rather than mess with the pinion bearings install, i just green lit it cuz i honestly just want it fixed so i can drive to work lol. Ended up costing me $1400 bucks with a used/junkyard rear end. I felt like that may have been a little high, but just to get it done and me not have to deal with finding a rear end and trying to install it with a buddy of mine in maybe not the best way, i just bit the bullet. Also had to replace one leaf spring shackle as when he lifted the Jeep on the lift it broke. I suspect it was already broke though as occasionally when backing out of my fairly steep driveway i would hear a knock like it was shifting, and i suspected there could be an issue with a shackle or mount. So, that was no surprise. At any rate, I pick it up tomorrow morning, assuming all is well with the world after this hit to my finances, lol id like to seriously chase down this EVAP leak.

Going to physically inspect the EVAP lines better this coming weekend. Dont have a smoke machine to do that test so i figured a good place to start is physically checking the lines. Is there anything i should look for that can point to leak aside from obvious rot out or cracks in the lines? I already replaced the tank to canister line with a rubber one, (was TOTALLY rotted out) but i think i may revisit that and make sure the clamps are tight enough on the tank end as i wasnt 100% on it when i did it. Being fairly new to all this, aside from the lines, we have the leak decection pump, the purge solnoid, & charcoal canister correct? Anything else i should look at? i assume if i cant find anything visually the next step would be to take it to a shop for the smoke test.

bluejeep2001

Look along the firewall on the drivers side where the firewall meets the frame rail, way under the master cyl. tubes running from back frame rails intermix big rubber and metal tubing right where they turn upward. A tywrap where rubber meets metal tubing fixes a lot of issues. Also right above the back axle on drivers side is a box with 3 or 4 hoses going to it. the hoses attach with short rubber hoses that are probably all rotted. You will quickly learn that you must do most of this stuff yourself. A mechanic at 150/hour turns a jeep into an incredible money pit is very short time, and they don't do a very good job anyway

Lou4130

Awesome thanks! Yea i try to do most stuff myself. Doing the pinion bearings or the rear end was not something i, or my buddies, were set up to do, so i had no choice unfortunately. But i think most of the other gremlins i should be able to do myself. (EVAP large leak, Running rich code, "2 cranks to start" [maybe fuel filer and/or pump], and i THINK the exhaust manifold is cracked)Thanks again! i will check those lines Saturday!

Lou4130

Hello hive mind! Updates on my XJ!

So everything i checked the EVAP line myself, physically i cant find anything obvious. (already replaced the canister to tank line with a rubber one) So...i will bring it to shop to at the very least do the smoke test to find the leak. Then hopefully be able to do the repair or part replacement myself.

Something else i noticed the past week or so. It seems like it doesn't want to kick into 4th gear all the time. What i noticed was, i start it up and drive 5 min to the gas station. i shut it off. Fill it up, and then when i get back on the road it seems to run better. What i mean by better is, it seems to switch gears at an appropriate time usually at about 2000rpm. I can be going 50-60 and only on the gas lightly and it will stay under 2000 rpm (usually between 1500 and 2000) But i have noticed on my way home from work, when i just start it and go, its like i have to get it to 2500RPM for it to switch gears and it seems to just stay in 3rd running at 2500 RPM to almost 3000 and im only going 40. I can step on it more and get to 50-60 but the RPMs will stay pretty high. i feel like this is not right/good. Not sure what that is? Any one experience this and figure out the issue? Could it be related to the EVAP leak, or an exhaust leak? I def have an exhaust leak i am going to address in a couple weeks. Is there any sensors i should look at/change that may help this? I am just a novice with these XJs but want to learn (and fix!) as much as i can! Thanks all!

Very Red XJ

For O2 sender codes on an old XJ it's a good idea to look at the wiring. The shielding can become brittle and allow the wire to short out on the exhaust header
The line for the evap. tube is NOT rated for gas fumes and will become brittle, crack and brake. Carefully look at the entire line before you purchase a smoke test
Good luck .

Dave51

I can loan you my smoke tester if you want to come over to Bpt on the Port Jeff Ferry.

Although it's $39 x2 round trips and you can get one from Amazon quicker for $70:


In re: shifting no codes? All wiring good? ATF level OK? Changing/flushing ATF would be a good start. Check pan for debris. You can test solenoids at that point but IIWM I think I'd just slap in a new set (or at least have available). ATF + solenoids $120.

Lou4130

Appreciate that, but your right, for the cost i can just get one from Amazon and then i'll have it if i ever need it for anything else as well.

Yea i have to check the fluid and if there are any codes. last time i hooked it up to the reader i only had thre EVAP code and a running ricj code, nothing trans related. But i will do that again as well. . I was exhausted when i got home from work and have been swamped with crap all weekend so havent even had a minute to start her up. But i will def check the ATF. I may change it as well since i have no idea when/if it was changed previously. I'll do the filter as well. I discovered a badly leaking wheel seal/bearing Saturday morning so im going to address that first, then move onto this. I'll grab that smoke tester next paycheck on Friday and then see if i can find that leak!
Thanks for all the tips!