If you flipped your last one, I'd be cautious of lift, until you have more off-road hours under your belt.

I'd pimp out the ride, add cupholders, speakers etc first.

If you can't be good, be good at it!

 

I'd check the basics first. Nothing better than a great looking ride that sits in the driveway because it's broke.

0331 head? Be mindful of that head. If that cracks, game over with a limited budget.

 

Mon is right. I was assumimg you had already verified it was in good working order.

If you can't be good, be good at it!

 

If you don't drive like a moron you shouldn't flip any car. No disrespect meant by that. Just sayin.

 

Everything is mechanically sound I would assume. It goes to the shop for routine checkups. Would a flomaster 40 or a cherrybomb be worth it? I know everyone runs straight to the lift first but that will be around 600 dollars all together and I have to keep some money for the winter (girlfriend) and I roof in the summer. It's not even really the cost of the parts it's the installation that gets me. Any information will be Much appreciated!

 

I flipped my focus (was turning it into a track car) at 75 on a windy mountain road. Ya I was drunk. Have since quit drinking.

 

I'd go for a cherry bomb glasspack in a heartbeat lol.

 

How much does it typically cost to install a new exhaust kit?

 

Well, it can vary greatly, depending on what you do. I think a new Flowmaster muffler costs $70 or so, and a Cherry Bomb glasspack would probably be comparable. If you can use a welder, then it only takes the muffler price and your time to install it. New headers are expensive, like $150 at the least, more like $250-$300. A new, larger tailpipe from the end of the muffler out should cost less than $20 if you can bend it yourself and weld it up. You might need new exhaust hangers and u-bolts, but those are just a few dollars a piece.

 

Should I get the muffler itself (flowmaster 40) or get the performance package that includes; muffler, throttle body spacer, k&n air filter (9') and that's all for 255. What do ya think?

 

I wouldn't worry about the K&N filter or the throttle body spacer until you get other high performance parts for the jeep's engine

 

I put four 235/75-15 Yokohama Geolanders for $444 plus m/bal for $500 total on my keeping-it-stock 1996 Sport. They go up quickly beyond that point.

Definitely go over your vehicle with a fine tooth comb and be sure fluids are current and full - replace with synthetic and you'll likely never do it again. Tuneup parts last for 20-30,000 miles so they're a must-do too. Use good synthetic engine oil to slow down wear and tear. The whole idea is to avoid any unnecessary repairs due to negligence - what a waste of your money.

Then worry about you're gonna add...

 

I'm still stock (mostly) on my 2000 Sport. I picked it up with 108,000. I'm about $1000 into it just repairing what the original idiot neglected.

Scratch that, $1400. Forgot the replacement head.

I have to ask, what's your oil pressure at hot (operating temp) idle? Run her for 30 minutes and let her idle. I'd like to know.

Does she use oil? DO you lose coolant? Do you have any damp/wet/leaking seals?
Any wobbles?
Any ticks, pops, clicks, whistles, knocks, clunks, chickles, wiggles, wahosits, mumblies, grinding, growling, thumping, twangs, flits, flunks, clatters, clinks, or slaps?

If you have any thing that's not quite right, dig into now and make it solid. Then you can feel good about the money you put into 'performance' parts.

I love visiting the junk yard to find expensive 'performance' parts on vehicles with blown engines. Hundreds spent on lights, bells and whistles. Zero spent on filters and fluids.

Just my .02

 

Full maintenance first
Aggressive Tires close second
Lift, accessories, armor after

All the lift in the world will do you no good if you're spinning you street tires on mud

 

No ticks, squeaky sometimes because I get a little water on the belt here and there, but tires are expensive and I couldn't fit bigger than 30's with my stock jeep.