NAPA AC Drier..leak
#16
thanks..I was able to do the cross reference and you are correct. PAG 100 will work. Compressor had small amount of oil in it. I measured all in a cup and went with the suggested 2oz.
I was only able to pull vacuum for 20min or so, due to a bad storm that came in here in central TX. but it did not hold vacuum.
thanks for all the help today.
I'll try again in the morning.
PS..does $128 for a flush and $155 for a recharge sound like a fair price at a shop? anyone know?
I was only able to pull vacuum for 20min or so, due to a bad storm that came in here in central TX. but it did not hold vacuum.
thanks for all the help today.
I'll try again in the morning.
PS..does $128 for a flush and $155 for a recharge sound like a fair price at a shop? anyone know?
Last edited by puredrive; 06-12-2014 at 11:03 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Sometimes shops discount one and add onto another. $285 for flush and refill. Seems like you can do better. Especially since you probably only need to vacuum and 20 oz of R134a. If you don't have a vac pump and gauges then maybe it makes sense to pay them.
#19
I done almost complete overhauls in three different cars. (never evaporator) It's never been this hard. It's getting to be frustrated. chasing leaks.
I did not have a leak before I started. So far I have changed the evaporator, condenser, main AC hose, refrigerant hose and compressor.
this is a clip of the pressures I was getting when I started. I want to say that it was mid 80s or so..with a high humidity. maybe 88%
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBzOvU-J7p8
Last edited by puredrive; 06-13-2014 at 01:07 AM.
#20
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
For mid 80s those pressures seem kind of low almost as if it's low on charge or you have a big fan blowing chilled air at your radiator! I'd expect around 30-40 with no cycling? I'm not 100% on the cycling either. Seems like the 20 psi cutoff is fine but it may be re engaging too soon. I'll double check my FSM tomorrow. Have you changed the liquid line? Does the e-fan run constantly? Have you checked your thermometer?
#21
For mid 80s those pressures seem kind of low almost as if it's low on charge or you have a big fan blowing chilled air at your radiator! I'd expect around 30-40 with no cycling? I'm not 100% on the cycling either. Seems like the 20 psi cutoff is fine but it may be re engaging too soon. I'll double check my FSM tomorrow. Have you changed the liquid line? Does the e-fan run constantly? Have you checked your thermometer?
Thermometer?
I was getting 60F at the vents in recycling air and air from outside. I have changed Orifice Line, which I believe it's the liquid line. The Jeep is a year model 2000. For what I read the e fan does not run constantly. That only applies to previous mode.
For those that have 2000 or 2001, XJ Body Cherokees with 4.0 liter engines, this may help you understand how your AC System control switches work in controlling the AC Compressor and the Radiator Electric Fan.
Explanation of Switch Functions:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showpo...9&postcount=42
another gripe . the hose is tilted up. pretty sure it's going to rub against the hood.
Last edited by puredrive; 06-13-2014 at 10:17 AM.
#22
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thermometer?
I was getting 60F at the vents in recycling air and air from outside. I have changed Orifice Line, which I believe it's the liquid line. The Jeep is a year model 2000. For what I read the e fan does not run constantly. That only applies to previous mode.
For those that have 2000 or 2001, XJ Body Cherokees with 4.0 liter engines, this may help you understand how your AC System control switches work in controlling the AC Compressor and the Radiator Electric Fan.
Explanation of Switch Functions:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showpo...9&postcount=42
another gripe . the hose is tilted up. pretty sure it's going to rub against the hood.
I was getting 60F at the vents in recycling air and air from outside. I have changed Orifice Line, which I believe it's the liquid line. The Jeep is a year model 2000. For what I read the e fan does not run constantly. That only applies to previous mode.
For those that have 2000 or 2001, XJ Body Cherokees with 4.0 liter engines, this may help you understand how your AC System control switches work in controlling the AC Compressor and the Radiator Electric Fan.
Explanation of Switch Functions:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showpo...9&postcount=42
another gripe . the hose is tilted up. pretty sure it's going to rub against the hood.
Yeah I have a 01 XJ so I'm familiar with switch function and fan operation. I mentioned because of your "low" pressures. That hose looks messed up. Are you sure you have the hose of an 00 XJ? 00 and 01 use different accumulators. There should be no leaks. I would deal with the leaks and check your blend air actuator. Compare thermometer against another if you have doubts.
#23
Quick update..
The bent hose was an easy fix..just use some muscle to bend it to the right angle. All is good with that. Discovered that the Schrader valve is leaking , spring on it is broken.
Even when pulling vacuum, I can see a small amount of dye coming from the NAPA accumulator. same spot as before.
loosing my mind here..oh lord!!
The bent hose was an easy fix..just use some muscle to bend it to the right angle. All is good with that. Discovered that the Schrader valve is leaking , spring on it is broken.
Even when pulling vacuum, I can see a small amount of dye coming from the NAPA accumulator. same spot as before.
loosing my mind here..oh lord!!
Last edited by puredrive; 06-13-2014 at 12:40 PM.
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 11
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Exchange accumulator for another one. Try again.
All your stuff sounds like what I go through all the time.
I thought I was the only one. I feel your pain. Especially pocketbook pain.
All your stuff sounds like what I go through all the time.
I thought I was the only one. I feel your pain. Especially pocketbook pain.
#25
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
On a bigger screen, I can see that the accumulator is at a slight angle. This would also cause the other hose offset like it is. I would ask NAPA to warranty the accumulator. It looks like the right part and with o-rings it should just seal up the first time. The only fussing around should be to get both lines on it with the evaporator level.
Can you take a picture of the top of the low pressure service port? This won't help you, but it will help me.
Thanks!
Can you take a picture of the top of the low pressure service port? This won't help you, but it will help me.
Thanks!
#26
On a bigger screen, I can see that the accumulator is at a slight angle. This would also cause the other hose offset like it is. I would ask NAPA to warranty the accumulator. It looks like the right part and with o-rings it should just seal up the first time. The only fussing around should be to get both lines on it with the evaporator level.
Can you take a picture of the top of the low pressure service port? This won't help you, but it will help me.
Thanks!
Can you take a picture of the top of the low pressure service port? This won't help you, but it will help me.
Thanks!
Yeah I straighten everything out as much as possible. But the bends on it are just a bit off here and there. I have a whole set of extra o rings. But at this time I am throwing in the towel and going with an advance auto accumulator. that's what I had before.
But I read a few posts that people complain about fitment on the hoses and accumulator.
Hope these help.
#27
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I had a problem with aftermarket accumulators on late model XJs leaking at the fittings. Installed a MOPAR part and the problem was solved.
#28
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Actually I was hoping for a picture straight down with the cap removed. I have tape on mine because I can't find a cap that fits. I think its because the threads came out of the line. Before you spend money on a new accumulator you may want to see if your old manifold hose assembly also has a leak with the NAPA accumulator.
#29
I did call the local dealer, $197 plus a two week wait.
Picked up a Advance Auto, this one has the same markings as the NAPA, but it fits much better, does not extend as much and does not rub the shock tower. It's also sits a bit lower.
Actually I was hoping for a picture straight down with the cap removed. I have tape on mine because I can't find a cap that fits. I think its because the threads came out of the line. Before you spend money on a new accumulator you may want to see if your old manifold hose assembly also has a leak with the NAPA accumulator.
I did try, thus the reason why I just went and bought the NAPA AC manifold hose assembly.
Hope this is what you are needing.
#30
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yes, that's perfect! Thanks! Apparently the threads came out of my low pressure service port so I cannot use a cap there unless I replace the line. Did you like the NAPA manifold hose assembly? Exact factory fit?
I'd try to get my money back from NAPA on one or both of the parts, store credit, or whatever works best for you. Personally I would not have ever put R-134a in the system with a leak. Once it failed to pull or hold vacuum I would have driven straight back to NAPA.
On the flip side, you've got some new rubber lines in there that are likely more flexible than the original 15 year old lines.
I'd try to get my money back from NAPA on one or both of the parts, store credit, or whatever works best for you. Personally I would not have ever put R-134a in the system with a leak. Once it failed to pull or hold vacuum I would have driven straight back to NAPA.
On the flip side, you've got some new rubber lines in there that are likely more flexible than the original 15 year old lines.
Last edited by md21722; 06-13-2014 at 10:37 PM.