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NAPA AC Drier..leak

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Old 06-16-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote: "Yes, but in what way is the line scuffed that is causing the leak?"

Read post #41 carefully. Again.

I'll summarize: He said the scuffed area is leaking. It can't be any more plain. He is not talking about O-rings. You can't see them when everything is attached.

If one or both of the lines are scuffed/abraded, and they are the ones you can unbolt and remove from under the hood, then they can be replaced without pulling the dash.
Old 06-16-2014, 02:20 PM
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As I read the post, the firewall side lines are scuffed so I asked the question in what way is the scuff causing the leak. This is a legitimate question because that is the side with o-rings so it does not require perfectly good looking lines.

Talking down to me only makes you look smaller.
Old 06-16-2014, 03:02 PM
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sanded the ends..with some fine sandpaper..but I got a feeling that it's the evaporator as well. Is there a Shade Tree Mechanic method of finding out if this is at fault ? or would be advisable to take it to a shop for a sniffer test ?
Old 06-16-2014, 03:03 PM
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It's not a matter of "appearance". The line is worn through. as the OP seems to be describing.
Old 06-16-2014, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
It's not a matter of "appearance". The line is worn through. as the OP seems to be describing.
it's not leaking from the ends anymore. .. I am still getting another leak somewhere. I just want to disqualify that its the evaporator core. if it is leaking, well then I can cry some more.

would it be more of a trial an error kinda thing ? thanks in advance..
Old 06-16-2014, 03:19 PM
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A shop will have to put a sniffer up into the airbox under the dash for a more accurate diagnosis.
Old 06-16-2014, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by puredrive
it's not leaking from the ends anymore. .. I am still getting another leak somewhere. I just want to disqualify that its the evaporator core. if it is leaking, well then I can cry some more.

would it be more of a trial an error kinda thing ? thanks in advance..
Short of buying a refrigerant tester to sniff for the leak, a second evaporator that you can connect inline and see if the problem goes away... you'd probably need to take it somewhere and let them guess or troubleshoot. if you like A/C work you may want to invest in the refrigerant sniffer. I'd probably take all the connections apart and inspect the o-rings before paying somebody but that's just me.
Old 06-16-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by md21722
Short of buying a refrigerant tester to sniff for the leak, a second evaporator that you can connect inline and see if the problem goes away... you'd probably need to take it somewhere and let them guess or troubleshoot. if you like A/C work you may want to invest in the refrigerant sniffer. I'd probably take all the connections apart and inspect the o-rings before paying somebody but that's just me.
at one point I had 4 cars and one Bike in my fleet..That's why I have so many tools and frankly enjoy as a past time working on cars.

I don't like paying for labor if I can do it myself. Why pay someone $100 bucks to swap out pads or do a simple Cylinder head swap on a 4.0L engine. :thumb up:


I did the whole AC work on a VW Jetta 88 GLI and repaired the AC work on the XJ when I got it. But I have never struggled so much this time around. Maybe because I was not under the gun to get it fixed. Plus it's freaking HOT already here in TX. Gonna have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop and see what they say. Picking a highly reputable place for this AC troubleshoot the system

I'll update tomorrow if I can..

Thanks everyone for all the help- This is what makes forums work
Old 06-17-2014, 12:41 PM
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Take some O-rings with you.

Just in case.
Old 06-18-2014, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
Take some O-rings with you.

Just in case.
Evaporator has a leak, they went in through the firewall side, by taken the blower motor out.
Old 06-18-2014, 11:18 AM
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About an 8-10 hour job to replace that, isn't it?
Old 06-18-2014, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm500
About an 8-10 hour job to replace that, isn't it?

I'm dreading this
http://buckeyejeeps.com/stuff/XJEvapReplacement.pdf
Old 06-19-2014, 07:12 PM
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The evaporator core replacement, really isn't that bad. I've had to do it twice now. The first time, to replace said core and the second to fix the blend door because I got it stuck.

To slightly high jack the thread, after I got the evaporator replaced which was clearly the problem. I still have a leak somewhere, sniffers and dye haven't been able to find it. I gave up, and just ordered every other single part associated with the a/c. Good luck, these old girls like to mess with us.
Old 06-23-2014, 09:56 AM
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Paid a tech 1/2 the cost shop cost to change the evaporator. We also replaced the High side AC switch as it was not working properly. AC fan kicks on as it should now.

I have driven the Jeep Maybe 100 miles so far.. first 10-15, the AC worked flawlessly. but when I went on a gun range trip, 60 miles round trip. The AC was set on AC recycle and set at Fan position #1 when all of the sudden it started to blow slightly warmer air. WTF!!

On the way back, I check the vents with a laser thermometer..I was getting mid 45-48Fs, with Recycle air setting and Fan set on #1 speed. When once again, the Jeep started to blow slightly warmer air. Mid 50s. (ambient temp to phone app was 85F with a humidity of 75%)



Today I plan on taking a short trip to run some errands. What would be the ideal temperature at the vents in a mid 90s day with humidity in the 60%? 30F cooler? or is that skiing too much?


PS
Proper R134a was applied.. 20oz with a machine.
Old 06-23-2014, 10:04 AM
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While I have not been that deep into a Jeep dash, two possibilities come to mind.

You might have mentioned it earlier, but did you flush the system and change the orifice after you had to go into the dash?

Did you put the coil temperature sensor back in place?

It sounds like your system is icing up after a while, reducing the ability to remove heat & moisture from the cabin air.


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