NAPA AC Drier..leak
06-23-2014, 10:26 AM
#61
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Location: Colorado
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Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
IF the evap was icing up the you'd see reduced air flow through the vents and the lines in the engine bay would be frosty.
I don't think 2000 XJ's have a evap temp sensor. I think its all done with the low and high pressure switches.
I would check to make sure the A/C compressor is engaged when the temperature in the dash vents get higher. If the clutch is worn, it will need to be reshimmed. Is this the new denso compressor? Perhaps hang some manifold gauges on it and see what you get, or try jumping the and low and high pressure sensors.
If your fan clutch is old it can be pulling less air through the condenser leading to less effective A/C, high pressures.
There's no reason to change the orifice tube or flush the system each time you have the system open. Generally that is a condition of compressor warranty to cover cases where the last compressor grenaded and left bits of itself throughout the lines.
90F would be around 37-48F at the drivers side center vent according to the FSM, with the engine at 1000RPM, recirc on, doors and windows open.
I don't think 2000 XJ's have a evap temp sensor. I think its all done with the low and high pressure switches.
I would check to make sure the A/C compressor is engaged when the temperature in the dash vents get higher. If the clutch is worn, it will need to be reshimmed. Is this the new denso compressor? Perhaps hang some manifold gauges on it and see what you get, or try jumping the and low and high pressure sensors.
If your fan clutch is old it can be pulling less air through the condenser leading to less effective A/C, high pressures.
There's no reason to change the orifice tube or flush the system each time you have the system open. Generally that is a condition of compressor warranty to cover cases where the last compressor grenaded and left bits of itself throughout the lines.
90F would be around 37-48F at the drivers side center vent according to the FSM, with the engine at 1000RPM, recirc on, doors and windows open.
Last edited by md21722; 06-23-2014 at 10:29 AM.
06-23-2014, 11:26 AM
#62
Member
Thread Starter
While I have not been that deep into a Jeep dash, two possibilities come to mind.
You might have mentioned it earlier, but did you flush the system and change the orifice after you had to go into the dash?
Did you put the coil temperature sensor back in place?
It sounds like your system is icing up after a while, reducing the ability to remove heat & moisture from the cabin air.
You might have mentioned it earlier, but did you flush the system and change the orifice after you had to go into the dash?
Did you put the coil temperature sensor back in place?
It sounds like your system is icing up after a while, reducing the ability to remove heat & moisture from the cabin air.
and flush and the orifice was changed prior to digging into the dash. Flush was done after evaporator and was recharged after finding no leaks.
IF the evap was icing up the you'd see reduced air flow through the vents and the lines in the engine bay would be frosty.
I don't think 2000 XJ's have a evap temp sensor. I think its all done with the low and high pressure switches.
I would check to make sure the A/C compressor is engaged when the temperature in the dash vents get higher. If the clutch is worn, it will need to be reshimmed. Is this the new denso compressor? Perhaps hang some manifold gauges on it and see what you get, or try jumping the and low and high pressure sensors.
If your fan clutch is old it can be pulling less air through the condenser leading to less effective A/C, high pressures.
There's no reason to change the orifice tube or flush the system each time you have the system open. Generally that is a condition of compressor warranty to cover cases where the last compressor grenaded and left bits of itself throughout the lines.
90F would be around 37-48F at the drivers side center vent according to the FSM, with the engine at 1000RPM, recirc on, doors and windows open.
I don't think 2000 XJ's have a evap temp sensor. I think its all done with the low and high pressure switches.
I would check to make sure the A/C compressor is engaged when the temperature in the dash vents get higher. If the clutch is worn, it will need to be reshimmed. Is this the new denso compressor? Perhaps hang some manifold gauges on it and see what you get, or try jumping the and low and high pressure sensors.
If your fan clutch is old it can be pulling less air through the condenser leading to less effective A/C, high pressures.
There's no reason to change the orifice tube or flush the system each time you have the system open. Generally that is a condition of compressor warranty to cover cases where the last compressor grenaded and left bits of itself throughout the lines.
90F would be around 37-48F at the drivers side center vent according to the FSM, with the engine at 1000RPM, recirc on, doors and windows open.
anyway that you can provide more info on the ideal vent temps are different temps and humidity levels md21722?
Thanks in advance.
06-24-2014, 05:35 PM
#63
Member
Thread Starter
A friend suggested I add just a tiny amount of r134a due to variances in aftermarket vs OEM parts.
Temp is stable at the end of the chart. Ambient 91F with 50%
Temp is stable at the end of the chart. Ambient 91F with 50%
08-06-2014, 01:21 PM
#64
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Model: Cherokee
I have a 98 Cherokee and I'm having the exact same problem with the NAPA dryer I purchased. It is not sealing in the same spot where the low pressure hose connects to the top of the dryer. So far I have only tried different o-ring sizes and cussed a lot. When you returned your dryer for a different one (Advanced Auto Parts?), did this fix the problem?
Also, when should I add the oil? If I add the oil to the dryer, install the dryer, then put the suction pump on the system, will this suck out oil? Or do I put the dryer in and when I go to charge the system add the amount of oil I drained from the original dryer then.
Also, when should I add the oil? If I add the oil to the dryer, install the dryer, then put the suction pump on the system, will this suck out oil? Or do I put the dryer in and when I go to charge the system add the amount of oil I drained from the original dryer then.
08-07-2014, 07:38 AM
#65
Member
Thread Starter
I have a 98 Cherokee and I'm having the exact same problem with the NAPA dryer I purchased. It is not sealing in the same spot where the low pressure hose connects to the top of the dryer. So far I have only tried different o-ring sizes and cussed a lot. When you returned your dryer for a different one (Advanced Auto Parts?), did this fix the problem?
Also, when should I add the oil? If I add the oil to the dryer, install the dryer, then put the suction pump on the system, will this suck out oil? Or do I put the dryer in and when I go to charge the system add the amount of oil I drained from the original dryer then.
Also, when should I add the oil? If I add the oil to the dryer, install the dryer, then put the suction pump on the system, will this suck out oil? Or do I put the dryer in and when I go to charge the system add the amount of oil I drained from the original dryer then.
yeah, add the correct amount of oil and you should be good to go. GL
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