foxrider4lyfe

thats the way we did it,and im thinking its my master but it doesnt leak at all its just soft...would that still be it?

Stan6406

Yes the seals inside may have went bad

foxrider4lyfe

okay thanks so is it a straight forward swap just pull brake lines and replace?then bleed system

Desert Rat

Bench bleed your MC before install and save yourself a lot of trouble. If you bench bleed it and then install it and get your lines to the MC started, snug them up and then loosen them about one turn, have a helper hold the pedal down while you tighten the lines. If you have previousely gotten all the air out of your lines, you should not have to bleed them again.A trick I learned, works everytime provided you know all the air is out of the lines.eg you've already bled them.

foxrider4lyfe

sorry but what is bench bleeding?

foxrider4lyfe

replace MC,no fix thinking BB now

952door4x4

Hi, sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I am having this EXACT same problem. It's very frustrating. It happened while my brother had the car so I dont know what happened when they went bad, like if it happened in the middle of driving or if it was just that way when he started it one day, I have no idea. He replaced the rotors, calipers, and the MC. I tried bleeding the brakes again tonight and it didnt seem to help at all. Please let me know if you guys ever fixed this, I think I'm just going to drop it off somewhere tomorrow, bend over, and wait for the bill if I cant fix it by tomorrow night.

Bustedback

Check for leaks at the wheel cylinders and calipers, check the rear brake adjustment. Throwing pads at it will not fix the problem, and don't just start replacing stuff in hopes of maybe fixing it. FIND the problem and then fix it, replace only what you know is bad. This forum is a great place for info, but it is also very bad for info at the same time. Quite a few people hand out bad and stupid advise on topics they haven't a clue about. Be careful, Ol'Blue, and Willie are two of the guys I trust around here, they know their stuff, but some of the other "experts" on the site scare the crap out of me.

caged

check the flex lines. when they go bad, they get soft and will expand like a balloon when you step on the brake actuator thing.

fantic238

I've opened my brake calipers to replace the seal that was leaking and you guys can't even imagine what i found in there, after 22 years of service, more than half the volume behind the piston was filled with mud. After cleaning, painting and fluid change the jeep returned to brake and the pedal is stiff. What a wonderful sensation.

952door4x4

+1 for the caliper inspection. That was the original problem with my car, the piston hyperextended out of the caliper and was squirting fluid everywhere. After my brother and his friend put new rotors, pads, and a master cylinder on and the pedal was still sinking to the floor. Turns out he installed the calipers on the wrong sides. I guess this is a pretty common problem. Make sure the bleeder valve is in the right position. I have a Haynes manual and it shows the right was to install it and I'm sure there are a few websites that will show you too. Hope this helps someone.

Copytech

Mine is having the same problem I have replaced the master cylinder the brake booster (both were leaking). replaced the rear wheel cylinders and bled the system then cycled the ABS pump for 30 seconds then rebled but the pedal is still soft. The brakes work great but the pedal feel is awful.

H1982

I'm having soft pedals and leaking fluid, looks like it's leaking from my driver side rear tire. Would that be the master alone or blown seal? 93 Jeep Laredo Thanks.

notop46

Replace wheel cylinder and bleed system as described above in post #13.