thaclav

So I'm pretty sure I'm gonna replace the fan clutch. Some of the write-ups I've seen recommend removing the radiator while replacing the fan clutch, so I'm wondering if I should replace both of them at one time. I'm thinking that the radiator in the Jeep isn't too strong and I'm thinking of replacing it with a 3-row from radiatorbarn.com. I got a coolent flush about 2500 miles ago and that's either when the problems started or I started paying more attention to my temperature gauge, I'm not sure which. Is it possible that the coolent flush could have disloged something on the inside of the rad causing some kind of blockage? Also, if I repalce the rad, what else should I replace at the same time? I'm on a budget here, I'm a high school student and I can only work one day a week so I don't want to go nuts and just replace everything.

96 XJ Sport

I wouldn't replace the radiator just yet. Did you try the test on the fan clutch that I described earlier? I wouldn't replace it either until you've verified that it's not working correctly, but at least it's only $35 at AZ.

You definitely don't have to completely remove the radiator to replace the fan clutch. At worst, you have to remove the crossmember above the radiator so that you can lift the pass side of the radiator out of its mount (leaving all hoses connected) and scoot it forward an inch or two to give you clearance to get the fan clutch back onto the studs. I had to do it that way because I have a CSF 3-row radiator which is a little thicker than stock and the TorqFlo fan clutch from AZ is a little thicker than stock, too. I would try to replace it with the radiator in place first. When you get the fan clutch and the shroud loose, you have to lift them out together and then put them back in together as well. Because if you put the fan back on first, the shroud won't squeeze between the fan and radiator...I tried and busted my shroud

The 3-row is a nice upgrade for the 4.0, so do it when you can afford it. But IMO if you had a rad blockage, it would show up at high speed as well, not just at idle. If you do upgrade the rad, also do the water pump, upper and lower hoses and serp belt.

Mike H.

I had the same problem a few years back.
Replaced the fan relay and have not looked back.

If you decide to do the fan clutch, yes, you'll save time and frustration by pulling the radiator.

milmat1

Whats the difference between Idleing and moving on the highway ???

AIRFLOW !!! Check the Fan / Clutch as they said earlier

thaclav

Okay, thanks. I'll replace the fan clutch fan and report back. I definately want to put in a 3 row radiator sometime before summer. As much as I love working on the Jeep, I want to spend some money on something other than mechanical stuff, the rims on it look pretty bad and I want to replace them before I replace the radiator but obviously I'll resolve the cooling system problems first.

LCFRJEEP

Yes your right, but what is supposed to create that airflow at idle??

THE E-FAN!!! It's 6 one way and half dozen the other. Could be argued both ways.

96 XJ Sport

It could just as easily be either fan. Actually, the mechanical fan creates ALL of the airflow at idle until you get up to 215-220 where the e-fan kicks in. Now that my mechanical fan is working correctly, mine NEVER gets hot enough to even kick on the e-fan...it only comes on when the A/C is turned on via the relay, but not because it's hot. That's the way it should work IMHO.

fivendime

A quick check, but if you turn the AC on shouldnt the Electric Fan come on, and wouldn't that be a quick check? Or does the fan come on with the temperature reaching a high level on its one circuit?

Mike H.

If it's getting warm enough, the fan will come on whether the a/c is on or not... personally verified wheelin' in the desert durring summer.

ol"blue

I've never owned a 4.0, but I found this XJ 4.0 Cooling system upgrade if it's helpful: http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xj_cooling.html

thaclav

Okay so I got a new symptom. I took the Jeep on a 200 mile road trip last weekend, on the first part of the trip it ran at about 200-205 the whole way, but that was at night. On the way back I was going over a few pretty large hills and the temp gauge stayed at about 220. For a while when I was going downhill, I would be drifting with the engine at idle, and when I would get to the bottom of the hill I would hit the gas and the temp would drop down to 210, but then go back up again. The temp would also go down just a little bit if I had the AC (and electric fan) on. After 60 miles like that I stopped for gas, the engine cooled, and when I started it up it stayed at 210 almost all the way back home. This was in pretty normal weather (65-70 degrees) driving at about 70 mph, although when I got caught in traffic and slowed down to about 30 the temperature stayed the same. I was looking at the write-up ol blue posted and another one similar to it and I'm seriously considering doing that.

xjmonkey

yes this is how the cooling fans SHOULD work on a properly functioning xj.. air flow is increased when youre driving but at idle ONLY the clutch fan should be spinning... unless you have an over-heating problem. i kno because im dealing with this problem right now and the temp can be all over the place depending on how much air flow is passing through the rad

dyte2004

i would say you had a poor fan clutch but also bad fan temp sender or relay the sender is in the thermostat housing you might only notice a slow running fan clutch if the electric fan is failing to come on otherwise the electric fan would keep it cool does that make sense

svetlomir

have a look at this page i think you can find some useful info http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRadiatorRestrictor.htm

there you can find some answers

LCFRJEEP

Has anyone tried this?? This looks and seems to make since!! Atleast in my simple mind!