Need help - Long cranking issue has turned into not wanting to run issue
#16
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I didn't drop the tank, I'm thankful for the side mounted pumps lol - Process wasn't too bad.
Pulled out the well known to be crap airtex special that the previous owner had put in and replaced it with an OEM Bosch.
So far, so good - but it's fooled me before so I reserving my optimism until I'm certain it won't start acting up again. But to be honest, the engine almost seemed quieter with the new pump, ran smoother etc. I have left the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while I drive for now so I can keep an eye on it, but the pressure has been rock solid with the new pump so far.
Pulled out the well known to be crap airtex special that the previous owner had put in and replaced it with an OEM Bosch.
So far, so good - but it's fooled me before so I reserving my optimism until I'm certain it won't start acting up again. But to be honest, the engine almost seemed quieter with the new pump, ran smoother etc. I have left the fuel pressure gauge hooked up while I drive for now so I can keep an eye on it, but the pressure has been rock solid with the new pump so far.
I'm hoping I don't have to replace my pump, but in my random searching around it seemed that there was no option when it comes to the whole assembly.
Did you replace anything else (lock ring, gaskets, etc.)?
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I'm guessing you just replaced the pump (rather than the whole assembly) and it wasn't that bad?
I'm hoping I don't have to replace my pump, but in my random searching around it seemed that there was no option when it comes to the whole assembly.
Did you replace anything else (lock ring, gaskets, etc.)?
I'm hoping I don't have to replace my pump, but in my random searching around it seemed that there was no option when it comes to the whole assembly.
Did you replace anything else (lock ring, gaskets, etc.)?
Basically, obviously disconnect battery, release pressure in fuel system, then disconnect the connector coming from the fuel pump, you'll find it near the fuel filter, just follow the wires. Pull the two fuel lines off the top of the sending unit, I needed to use some wd40 and pliers to pull them off. Use a brass punch if you can and tap the lock ring counter clockwise. I let it soak in pb plaster before I did, so it released fairly easily, pull the assembly out of the tank. It doesn't come straight out, it makes a 90* bend. Once the assembly is out, there's one connector on the pump, I just cut the old fuel hose between the pump and hardline and then it comes right out.
If you use a Bosch pump, the rubber piece that goes between the pump and bottom of the assembly is too big, I reused the old one and it was fine. I took my time since it was the first time I had done an XJ pump and I wanted to make sure I was careful with the sending unit/float/wiring etc since it's all 25 years old now. But start to finish still only took about 2 hours.
Also make sure when you put the new strainer on the pump, there is a tiny little lock nut that presses onto it. I almost missed that as I didn't see it come out of the box right away. So make sure you don't lose that tiny little dude.
I really wanted to just replace the whole assembly as well, but like you're finding, it seems difficult to find and if you do it's expensive. Just be careful with the old sending unit and the process itself really isn't too bad.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Oh, and you asked about the lock ring etc - My local Advance Auto didn't have a new one in stock when I picked up the pump. I reused the old one and it seems fine, cleaned it all up the best I could too.
Another little bonus tip I guess too - My local O'Reilly/AZ etc didn't have Bosch pumps, Napa did but it was like $105, Amazon had the pump for like $64 or something. I found that Advance Auto had the Bosch pump in stock and it was still $102, but after some digging, I found a promo code for 25% off my order - So it was still a little more expensive than Amazon, but I didn't have to wait for shipping. I got the Bosch pump, new strainer, a spicer u-joint and u-joint retainers/bolts for what it would have cost me for the pump alone after tax at Napa.
You have to order online, put you can select to pick up in store. Use code RMN25
Another little bonus tip I guess too - My local O'Reilly/AZ etc didn't have Bosch pumps, Napa did but it was like $105, Amazon had the pump for like $64 or something. I found that Advance Auto had the Bosch pump in stock and it was still $102, but after some digging, I found a promo code for 25% off my order - So it was still a little more expensive than Amazon, but I didn't have to wait for shipping. I got the Bosch pump, new strainer, a spicer u-joint and u-joint retainers/bolts for what it would have cost me for the pump alone after tax at Napa.
You have to order online, put you can select to pick up in store. Use code RMN25
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Nice!!!! Awesome info - thank you sir.
Like I said, I'm not having any problems or anything that leads me to believe that I need a new pump - but it's always a possibility with a 24 year old Jeep. I did do the pump on my last Jeep (a 00 TJ), but it was the "drop the tank" style used from 97+ and I was able to get the complete assembly so it was just pull out the old and carefully install the new one.
Interestingly, I had a starting issue recently in the cold that did the long crank thing, but realized I couldn't hear the pump prime and if when I did hear the priming, it would start right up. I ended up changing out the relay (I had one on hand) and the PCM (which I had already just because the one in it was the wrong part number and I found a correct part number - in other words, was already getting done prior to the issue) and now it primes every time and fires right up. Yesterday and this morning were the true test since it was single digit temps. So far, so good.
(I had come across a post where someone had the same issue and a new PCM corrected it. It's funny that the issue occurred literally right as I was already swapping out the PCM... )
Prior to doing the other parts, I did end up picking up a test gauge from HF. Since everything's running great now, I haven't even used it yet -- maybe I'll put it on just for giggles the next time I'm under the hood...
Like I said, I'm not having any problems or anything that leads me to believe that I need a new pump - but it's always a possibility with a 24 year old Jeep. I did do the pump on my last Jeep (a 00 TJ), but it was the "drop the tank" style used from 97+ and I was able to get the complete assembly so it was just pull out the old and carefully install the new one.
Interestingly, I had a starting issue recently in the cold that did the long crank thing, but realized I couldn't hear the pump prime and if when I did hear the priming, it would start right up. I ended up changing out the relay (I had one on hand) and the PCM (which I had already just because the one in it was the wrong part number and I found a correct part number - in other words, was already getting done prior to the issue) and now it primes every time and fires right up. Yesterday and this morning were the true test since it was single digit temps. So far, so good.
(I had come across a post where someone had the same issue and a new PCM corrected it. It's funny that the issue occurred literally right as I was already swapping out the PCM... )
Prior to doing the other parts, I did end up picking up a test gauge from HF. Since everything's running great now, I haven't even used it yet -- maybe I'll put it on just for giggles the next time I'm under the hood...
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Nice!!!! Awesome info - thank you sir.
Like I said, I'm not having any problems or anything that leads me to believe that I need a new pump - but it's always a possibility with a 24 year old Jeep. I did do the pump on my last Jeep (a 00 TJ), but it was the "drop the tank" style used from 97+ and I was able to get the complete assembly so it was just pull out the old and carefully install the new one.
Interestingly, I had a starting issue recently in the cold that did the long crank thing, but realized I couldn't hear the pump prime and if when I did hear the priming, it would start right up. I ended up changing out the relay (I had one on hand) and the PCM (which I had already just because the one in it was the wrong part number and I found a correct part number - in other words, was already getting done prior to the issue) and now it primes every time and fires right up. Yesterday and this morning were the true test since it was single digit temps. So far, so good.
(I had come across a post where someone had the same issue and a new PCM corrected it. It's funny that the issue occurred literally right as I was already swapping out the PCM... )
Prior to doing the other parts, I did end up picking up a test gauge from HF. Since everything's running great now, I haven't even used it yet -- maybe I'll put it on just for giggles the next time I'm under the hood...
Like I said, I'm not having any problems or anything that leads me to believe that I need a new pump - but it's always a possibility with a 24 year old Jeep. I did do the pump on my last Jeep (a 00 TJ), but it was the "drop the tank" style used from 97+ and I was able to get the complete assembly so it was just pull out the old and carefully install the new one.
Interestingly, I had a starting issue recently in the cold that did the long crank thing, but realized I couldn't hear the pump prime and if when I did hear the priming, it would start right up. I ended up changing out the relay (I had one on hand) and the PCM (which I had already just because the one in it was the wrong part number and I found a correct part number - in other words, was already getting done prior to the issue) and now it primes every time and fires right up. Yesterday and this morning were the true test since it was single digit temps. So far, so good.
(I had come across a post where someone had the same issue and a new PCM corrected it. It's funny that the issue occurred literally right as I was already swapping out the PCM... )
Prior to doing the other parts, I did end up picking up a test gauge from HF. Since everything's running great now, I haven't even used it yet -- maybe I'll put it on just for giggles the next time I'm under the hood...
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update - drove about 40 miles, about an hours with of drive time, some highway, some stop/go - PTSD was in full effect the entire trip. I couldn't help but be anxious and just "anticipate" the random stalling but we made it home and it ran good the whole time. I'm still being cautious, but I'm hopeful anyways
Fuel pressure gauge/spark tester/multimeter will be staying on board at all times now with the tools I already carried by default. If it does act up again after changing the pump I'll at least be prepared to test things more thoroughly.
Fuel pressure gauge/spark tester/multimeter will be staying on board at all times now with the tools I already carried by default. If it does act up again after changing the pump I'll at least be prepared to test things more thoroughly.
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My XJ was just stolen from my Apartment in Puyallup, WA - FML.
If anyone is local, please please be on the lookout.
Here's the link to my fb page, you can share the post if you'd like.
https://www.facebook.com/chris.browning.52
If anyone is local, please please be on the lookout.
Here's the link to my fb page, you can share the post if you'd like.
https://www.facebook.com/chris.browning.52
#26
Seasoned Member
My XJ was just stolen from my Apartment in Puyallup, WA - FML.
If anyone is local, please please be on the lookout.
Here's the link to my fb page, you can share the post if you'd like.
https://www.facebook.com/chris.browning.52
If anyone is local, please please be on the lookout.
Here's the link to my fb page, you can share the post if you'd like.
https://www.facebook.com/chris.browning.52
#27
Member
OK I know this is an old post. So Im reading every last word in each post thinking yeah! exactly like the problem with my 92 XJ.
Eagerly awaiting Dudeinthepnw to say ITS FIXED. Instead its stolen!!!! AHHHHHHhhhhhhhh.
Who ever stole his XJ will you please let us know how its running?
Eagerly awaiting Dudeinthepnw to say ITS FIXED. Instead its stolen!!!! AHHHHHHhhhhhhhh.
Who ever stole his XJ will you please let us know how its running?
#28
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I took down the part # of that Bosch pump.......
#29
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's what I've found so far. Bosch 0 580 453 432 is the original pump number. Likely the same as the Bosch 69301 which is NLA.
It appears that Bosch 69302 is a different pump in a kit form with adapters to fit where a 69301 was.
Specs on the pump are 12 volt, 45 gallons per hour, 90 to 110 PSI.
Quite a few pumps fall into that spec. SAP E7006 is one of them. Plus numerous Bosch pumps. As for the hose sizes, who knows. I'll continue to work on it.
It appears that Bosch 69302 is a different pump in a kit form with adapters to fit where a 69301 was.
Specs on the pump are 12 volt, 45 gallons per hour, 90 to 110 PSI.
Quite a few pumps fall into that spec. SAP E7006 is one of them. Plus numerous Bosch pumps. As for the hose sizes, who knows. I'll continue to work on it.
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