Need help ordering the right brake rear brake lines
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 897
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
It's okay to be a novice. You have to start somewhere. At least you're trying - and every "try" is another lesson learned.
I'm trying to visualize the "black box" you've described. It may be the purge canister housing - with a bunch of hard plastic lines entering/exiting. Those are all about fuel vapor recovery and recirculation.
After looking at your photos more closely, I think I see the leak-source. It appears to be where the hard and soft lines meet. You can see the bracket-mounted coupling near the e-brake cable with the extra thick jacket on it. If I'm right - and I hope I'm not - then you are about to take on a plumbing task that is a total PITA.
You'll need a second person to help you. Make sure there's enough brake fluid in your reservoir then climb under there (wear safety glasses and bring a light source - no open flames). Have your helper press on the brake pedal while you monitor/observe for the source of the brake fluid leak. If you determine that it's the hard line before the coupling then I'll suggest that it's not a task for a novice to tackle alone - get experienced help.
I'm trying to visualize the "black box" you've described. It may be the purge canister housing - with a bunch of hard plastic lines entering/exiting. Those are all about fuel vapor recovery and recirculation.
After looking at your photos more closely, I think I see the leak-source. It appears to be where the hard and soft lines meet. You can see the bracket-mounted coupling near the e-brake cable with the extra thick jacket on it. If I'm right - and I hope I'm not - then you are about to take on a plumbing task that is a total PITA.
You'll need a second person to help you. Make sure there's enough brake fluid in your reservoir then climb under there (wear safety glasses and bring a light source - no open flames). Have your helper press on the brake pedal while you monitor/observe for the source of the brake fluid leak. If you determine that it's the hard line before the coupling then I'll suggest that it's not a task for a novice to tackle alone - get experienced help.
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 897
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
And cherry I have no money what so ever to pay someone to do this so I have to do it myself. I'm very handy and good with my hands so i'm confident with the instructions that i'll be able to do it.
#18
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 28
From: Boston
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
Dude, if the cash thing is holding you back from letting a pro do it then get some help from a bud with a little more experience. The best thing you can do for yourself despite the expense is to replace the entire length of hardline from front to back. If it cracked like you said, and from my own experience owning a 13 year old XJ w/178K in New England, that line is brittle and will defy your every attempt at a clean splice. The hassle factor of splicing brittle line has more than a measurable cash value. Replacing the entire length in one shot may sound laborious but it is much less-so than patching with compression fittings and is surprisingly less expensive (materials-wise) than patchwork. The added comfort of knowing it will never fail again during your ownership is priceless. It's pay me now or pay me later (not me, but I think you know what I mean). The decision is yours. Don't forget to buy a large container of brake fluid and prep all bleeder nipples early in the process (before you actually need to do the brake system bleed). Best o' luck!
#19
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 897
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
Dude, if the cash thing is holding you back from letting a pro do it then get some help from a bud with a little more experience. The best thing you can do for yourself despite the expense is to replace the entire length of hardline from front to back. If it cracked like you said, and from my own experience owning a 13 year old XJ w/178K in New England, that line is brittle and will defy your every attempt at a clean splice. The hassle factor of splicing brittle line has more than a measurable cash value. Replacing the entire length in one shot may sound laborious but it is much less-so than patching with compression fittings and is surprisingly less expensive (materials-wise) than patchwork. The added comfort of knowing it will never fail again during your ownership is priceless. It's pay me now or pay me later (not me, but I think you know what I mean). The decision is yours. Don't forget to buy a large container of brake fluid and prep all bleeder nipples early in the process (before you actually need to do the brake system bleed). Best o' luck!
#20
replacing the full hard line isn't as bad as you might think
I did both my Xjs with pre-made sections from Advance Auto
take the line off in 1 piece if you can and measure it as best you can
I think it was around 100"
It took 2 long sections, 1 short adapter section and 2 couplers
the bends don't have to be exact, but use a tubing bender
I did both my Xjs with pre-made sections from Advance Auto
take the line off in 1 piece if you can and measure it as best you can
I think it was around 100"
It took 2 long sections, 1 short adapter section and 2 couplers
the bends don't have to be exact, but use a tubing bender
#21
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 897
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
replacing the full hard line isn't as bad as you might think
I did both my Xjs with pre-made sections from Advance Auto
take the line off in 1 piece if you can and measure it as best you can
I think it was around 100"
It took 2 long sections, 1 short adapter section and 2 couplers
the bends don't have to be exact, but use a tubing bender
I did both my Xjs with pre-made sections from Advance Auto
take the line off in 1 piece if you can and measure it as best you can
I think it was around 100"
It took 2 long sections, 1 short adapter section and 2 couplers
the bends don't have to be exact, but use a tubing bender
#22
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Belle River, Ontario, Canada
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i just replaced all of my brake lines on my 93 XJ. All lines are 3/16" diameter. I purchased a 25 foot coil of tubing from Autozone for about $22. I got the tubing with a protective coating on it so it should last long. You will also need a double flaring tool and a tubing bender is highly recommended. Be careful of the fitting that attach to the master cyclinder and the proportioning valve as these are all different sizes. i re-used my old fitting there. I found it easier to gain access to the proportioning valver by removing the air filter box and hoses.
3JeepGuy
3JeepGuy
#23
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 897
Likes: 2
From: NJ
Year: 2004 WJ, 1998 XJ
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.7 HO
Thanks everyone for the help. All the other lines looked good, so I ordered the one bad line from the dealer that was pre-bent. It went right on with no problems. Bled the system really well and everything seems great. Thanks again to you all. This site has saved me a ton of money in mechanic labor costs so far!
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks everyone for the help. All the other lines looked good, so I ordered the one bad line from the dealer that was pre-bent. It went right on with no problems. Bled the system really well and everything seems great. Thanks again to you all. This site has saved me a ton of money in mechanic labor costs so far!
That's what I did. Lots of peace of mind knowing I had a well made line. I had to replace the soft line/vent adaptor at the rear axle tube as well. It was ate up. Got it from NAPA though.
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