NEED HELP! please read and help if you can
#16
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yup have codes checked and sounds like a fuel issue to me. but get it checked out and go from there
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Tuff is an understatement! lol. I had the same problem and symptoms with mine about ten years ago. Tried using ether to fire it up. (bad idea, by the way...) It was an intermitant problem at first, usually letting it sit for 20-30 minutes and it would start... eventually she stopped starting, just crank and crank with nothing. It turned out to be the Crank Position Sensor. The dealership told me what the sensor does, but admited the main function was to short out IF oil leaked down onto it. In Jeeps (as we all know) it isn't a matter of if, but a matter of when the oil shorts it out.
To get to the damn thing you either need a ton of extentions and a few "wobbly" adaptors or you can drop the tranny, or lift the engine out...personally I would go for the extentions. After I replaced mine, I used a long chunk of tubing and a silicone caulking gun to seal the switch area up. Like I said earlier, that was almost a decade ago, and the new one has given me no worries.
Good luck!
--Todd--
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Tuff is an understatement! lol. I had the same problem and symptoms with mine about ten years ago. Tried using ether to fire it up. (bad idea, by the way...) It was an intermitant problem at first, usually letting it sit for 20-30 minutes and it would start... eventually she stopped starting, just crank and crank with nothing. It turned out to be the Crank Position Sensor. The dealership told me what the sensor does, but admited the main function was to short out IF oil leaked down onto it. In Jeeps (as we all know) it isn't a matter of if, but a matter of when the oil shorts it out.
To get to the damn thing you either need a ton of extentions and a few "wobbly" adaptors or you can drop the tranny, or lift the engine out...personally I would go for the extentions. After I replaced mine, I used a long chunk of tubing and a silicone caulking gun to seal the switch area up. Like I said earlier, that was almost a decade ago, and the new one has given me no worries.
Good luck!
--Todd--
To get to the damn thing you either need a ton of extentions and a few "wobbly" adaptors or you can drop the tranny, or lift the engine out...personally I would go for the extentions. After I replaced mine, I used a long chunk of tubing and a silicone caulking gun to seal the switch area up. Like I said earlier, that was almost a decade ago, and the new one has given me no worries.
Good luck!
--Todd--
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 i6
check to see if it has spark when its turning over that will tell u whether its a fuel or spark issue. a spark issue could be the cps, bad ground or distributer cap, rotor, if it has spark and wont start than it will most likely be a fuel problem. Do this before you do anything... this will be the easiest way to tell if its a fuel problem or not.
#21
I agree, it could be the alt. I bought mine with a busted alt, and the gauge read 12 for a few miles, then it nose dives past 9. It will run on just the battery but then you drain the battery out. If that happens then it doesn't start obviously. Just another suggestion. CPS idea also brilliant.
#22
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L`
CPS. If it was a fuel problem the eng. would starve out then quit. With an electrical problem it's switch off. Nothing! This is what a CPS does, switch off.
In my opinion you won't hurt yourself in any way to just replace the thing as a matter of course.
In my opinion you won't hurt yourself in any way to just replace the thing as a matter of course.
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