neutral safety switch
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 262
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From: Stafford, VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
neutral safety switch
my reverse lights would not come on so I removed and cleaned my neutral safety switch. The zip tie holding the wires in place was not there and both bolts on the switch were not very tight. Seems like it has already been removed before. Anyways, I cleaned it and re installed it, the reverse lights worked but the shifter inside the Jeep would not move freely through the gears. When I adjust the NSS so that the shifter moves freely through the gears it won't go into 1-2 in drive and the reverse lights no longer work. Am I adjusting it wrong? Is the top bolt (the smaller one) supposed to be tight all the way?
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I've never had one off. The last line in this link mentions the large nut just a tad tighter than hand tight. Also I think I saw that posted, that it can bind if that's too tight. Good luck! >> http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 3
From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
You just gotta keep adjusting it until you find the sweet spot where your reverse lights work and it starts in both park and neutral. Once you find that sweet spot, the top bolt should be pretty snug.
#4
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 262
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From: Stafford, VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I found the spot where the reverse lights come on and it starts, but when I tighten the top bolt the shifter inside the jeep won't really move. It takes force to shift into reverse and it won't go into any other gear
#6
I do recall a write-up regarding a similar problem....just can't find it. Anyway, the shaft, of course, comes out the other side and it's easy to pull it in too far (or not enough) while tightening the nut, if it has a little slack.
That may be the issue of the shifter binding. Maybe (1) get the shifter moving properly with the NSS off/loose and then (2) while holding the drivers side in place, tighten/adjust the switch.
Sounds good in theory anyway
That may be the issue of the shifter binding. Maybe (1) get the shifter moving properly with the NSS off/loose and then (2) while holding the drivers side in place, tighten/adjust the switch.
Sounds good in theory anyway
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#8
The housing of your NSS remains fixed (small adjustment bolt) while the actuator arm inside swings through its range of motion based on input from the shift lever. The only thing that could cause it to bind are 1) Something was left inside the NSS housing that is interfering with the actuator arm. 2) The lock nut is way too tight 3) There is an issue with your linkage unrelated to your NSS.
The actuator lever (big locking nut) rotates independent of the housing (small adjustment bolt) thanks to a rubber bushing between the two parts [see picture]
If you've tightened the pinch nut too much or somehow damaged the bushing so that the actuator arm doesn't move freely, it would result in the problems you've described. Also, if your NSS isn't completely seated you could potentially torque the housing when tightening the adjustment bolt causing the arm to bind. The best way to tell is to remove your NSS again and make sure that the actuator arm pivots freely in the housing and, with the NSS removed, move your shift lever through all gears. If it's still binding then the problem is with your linkage, if not, check that bushing, adjust, and lubricate. If you've damaged the bushing you may be stuck finding another NSS.
The actuator lever (big locking nut) rotates independent of the housing (small adjustment bolt) thanks to a rubber bushing between the two parts [see picture]
If you've tightened the pinch nut too much or somehow damaged the bushing so that the actuator arm doesn't move freely, it would result in the problems you've described. Also, if your NSS isn't completely seated you could potentially torque the housing when tightening the adjustment bolt causing the arm to bind. The best way to tell is to remove your NSS again and make sure that the actuator arm pivots freely in the housing and, with the NSS removed, move your shift lever through all gears. If it's still binding then the problem is with your linkage, if not, check that bushing, adjust, and lubricate. If you've damaged the bushing you may be stuck finding another NSS.
#9
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Northern Arizona
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Litre
Does anybody know what size the adjustment bolt is ?
I know it’s said that some are 12mm and some 13mm . What I need to know is the length , diameter and thread pitch my Heep won’t start . I crawled under and that adjustment bolt is missing . What length and thread pitch is this thing supposed to be ?
I know it’s said that some are 12mm and some 13mm . What I need to know is the length , diameter and thread pitch my Heep won’t start . I crawled under and that adjustment bolt is missing . What length and thread pitch is this thing supposed to be ?
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 482
From: SoCal
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
Likes: 311
From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
Does anybody know what size the adjustment bolt is ?
I know it’s said that some are 12mm and some 13mm . What I need to know is the length , diameter and thread pitch my Heep won’t start . I crawled under and that adjustment bolt is missing . What length and thread pitch is this thing supposed to be ?
I know it’s said that some are 12mm and some 13mm . What I need to know is the length , diameter and thread pitch my Heep won’t start . I crawled under and that adjustment bolt is missing . What length and thread pitch is this thing supposed to be ?
The following users liked this post:
doublechaz (11-13-2022)
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doublechaz (11-13-2022)
#14
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Northern Arizona
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Litre
Sorry man . I’m just in a tough spot . Need to get this thing on the road . I just figured I’d have a better chance getting an answer if I asked on multiple threads . The things are old and I didn’t know if I’d get an answer at all because on that . I’m not ver computer savvy so excuse my ignorance.
#15
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,566
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It's okay. It's just that as a moderator, that kind of machine gun posting makes a lot of work for me. Cleaning up and consolidating threads/posts.
I know you're new here and welcome here. Just understand that on CF questions get answered quickly and accurately. I bet you've seen that now.
I know you're new here and welcome here. Just understand that on CF questions get answered quickly and accurately. I bet you've seen that now.
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