Programbo

I guess I should finish cleaning and reinstall mine. Bypassed it 4 years ago and have never fixed it since. Whenever I need to back up I just pop my ICP CD in the stereo and crank up "Oddities".

"Ah yeah! Dum Diddy Dum,

Get your *** out the way 'cause here we come.."

Roler

Thanks, will try to get my arms in there with some kind of 'extension' to reach it ....or pull it and hope I rip nothing else

Roler

Started the preparation for removal and cleaning the NSS.
Managed to remove the notorious zip ties (had 3 in total) and now planning to remove the NSS.

Few questions:
- what's the wire-cable the NSS is zip tied to?
- when I take off the part (arm) that holds the two contacts+ little springs, does it need to be replaced in a certain postion, or does it slide over the shaft automatically in the right position?

gpeade

I pulled my switch off with the tranny in Park. When I reinstalled it I just rotated the arm with my fingers until it lined up with the shaft, rotated the housing itself to as close as it origianlly was and have not looked back. It worked the first time I tried it so havent seen the need for any adjustments.

xjsnake

No you don't need to put it back in a certain position. The "wiper arm" indexes on the output shaft from the transmission. You will end up rotating the whole NSS once it's reinstalled to adjust it to the correct position.

Roler

Well, after my initial good start with removing the notorious zip ties, today things got bad. Trying to get the NSS off, carefully prying, following the advice and (excellent) write-ups, managed to get it half off the shaft, then a threaded part of the wiper-arm decided to brake off, guess the material wasnt too good. Housing stuck half way on the shaft, managed to get it back in position (thank G) and put the nut back on.
And I wasnt even prying with force (to prevent this).
So, whats next? Guess I could use the link for the new NSS again.

xjsnake

www.carpartswholesale.com

DoWork25

I was recently having troubles with my jeep starting. No reverse lights at all. That told me it was the NSS. I pulled it off and got it on the bench and took out the 7 or so screws and when I pulled it apart it was exactly as i expected. All gummed up and black. One of the copper contacts wasn't even sprung out at all it was flush with the arm. Cleaned it all regreased everything put it back together and adjusted it because i had no neutral start. now everything works perfectly, lights and park and neutral start all work as they should. I am really glad that i found this thread otherwise would have cost me 125 bucks for a new switch. So BIG thanks to previous posts and pictures on how to clean it.

lsmaclea

I've been planning to replace the NSS on my friend's 2000 Cherokee.

I already ordered a used Jeep switch from Ebay, and rebuilt that one.

I went to take off the switch this past weekend but the switch was locked solid to the shaft. I could wiggle the adjustment and such, but it wasn't coming off no matter how hard I pried with a screw driver against the nut and transmission pan.

I tried some PB Blaster but it didn't seem to help. I left the shaft soaking in PB Blaster when I gave up.

What's the next step? Heat, or could I just grind off the aluminum with a dremel? I don't care about damaging the switch that is on the car. I just don't want to damage the transmission.

Thanks!

F1Addict

Steady pressure and a rocking motion on the NSS and it will eventually come off but it takes patience. I used wood wedges (you can get them at Home Depot in the door section, just look for door shims) between the tranny and NSS, then tapped on the input shaft with a urethane hammer, then tapped the wedges in, then tapped the shaft, then wedges, then shaft... POP. NSS fell off, undamaged.

Rebuilt, reinstalled, works perfect.

lsmaclea

Interesting.

So you shoved shims between the body of the NSS and the surface of the transmission to create some tension, then just vibrated (hit with hammer) the shaft and switch collet until it came loose.

How long do you think you had to work at it before it came loose?

I'll have to try that. I'm going to hit it with PB blaster a few more times and let it soak in a while. Might be a few weeks until I can get back under the car.

Thanks. Any other stories or ideas are welcome.

F1Addict

It probably took about 3 minutes but keep in mind, this is a native California Jeep that had never been off-road and has zero rust or corrosion. Your results may vary.

I believe I used 4 shims, one on either side, top and bottom, with the thin part of the shims facing each other so as I tapped them together they got "thicker". One nice thing about the wood shims is that they are able to apply a significant amount of (even) pressure while not damaging anything.

DFlintstone

Clever! I like that. I've used similar strategyies elsewhere. Some heat might help. I haven't been there myself so can't say exactly how... A "crisp" ahem.."tap" can help free something seized. I might suggest, the harder the wood, or even another material might help keep it crisp. (I'd rather hammer a nail in a 6X6 then a fence board). Thanks for the tip. Here's yet another NSS link >>>>>


http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/

lsmaclea

Thanks for the link. That was one of the DIYs I used to rebuild the ebay switch.

I'm dealing with a jeep that spent the majority of it's life in Cleveland Ohio, so there's a decent amount of rust and oxidation. I'll keep at the PB for the next few weeks until I have time + weather to get under it again.

Also, dumb question, do I need a propane torch to heat up the parts or could a lighter do it? Again, dumb question.

DFlintstone

I don't think there are any "dumb" questions here! I think learning is the idea. I only use my lighter for smaller things. I suppose being very careful with a torch might help. Real low, give the heat time to conduct/migrate through it. Doing it when the engine/trans is already warm should help a little as well. Heat really can help. Some things are even assembled that way, "shrunk" on. Ikd about those "turbo" lighters like crack heads use...maybe....

Again I haven't even done mine, not sure how practical that is. I HAVE spaced out and had my torch flame toast things I didn't intend behind my "target". Also of course they are handy for starting a fire, works great with oily plastic. Real low, really careful. Just letting the torch sit and warm up for a few minutes helps keep it from flaring up when you move it.

I once hit the line to my air shocks while doing a quick repair to my trailer wiring. A loud hiss, than the Jeep coming down toward me...took a sec to figure that one out! (was no longer a "quick" repair)