831xj

Haha I saw that on cl for DAYYYYSSS sorry you're the poor sap who bought it. Hope you got a good deal and that's great that you fixed your problem. I too just bought a renix. But it was in monterey

swayd

Ahhh it was a last minute decision and I needed a vehicle to get to work! Yeah man I checked out a manual one in santa rosa the day before and it was so trashed. This one is wayyy better than the other one. Hopefully I can work the rest of the issues out and then Im buying her some tires.

BimmerJeeper

When I did my tranny drain and fill, I just refilled the same amount I drained.
Use a graduated container to figure out how much drains the first time.
Drain for me was TWO quarts (not 3 or 4)

Here is my thread on this..
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...-3-4-a-174950/

PDEM87

Swayed, you mentioned your jeep is sucking down gas like crazy. Have you checked the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body and shoots back to the map sensor located on the firewall. The map sensor has a three wire plug on the bottom along with the small vacuum line. Make sure the line is not plugged or cracked and is connected at both ends. The engine will run extra rich if vacuum is not reaching this sensor.

swayd

Ahhh ok I have not checked that I will do that first thing after work. Thanks.

PDEM87

You also mentioned a hissing sound around the exhaust manifold. If you can beg,borrow or steal a vacuum gauge then check out cruizers #16 tip on checking for a restrictive exhaust. The pink link is provided in this thread,#42 I believe.

swayd

It was indeed the vacuum line. Thanks! The battle wagon now shifts, drives and doesn't smell like exhaust fumes. And no more hissing. Def ready for a little run in the woods this weekend.
Another question, the truck has pins in the front suspension sway bars. Do I just pull them out only for crawling on rocks or for any off road activity?

cruiser54

Have you checked the fluid level and condition in the trans, t-case, and diffs yet?

kgm

Yeah swap those diffs, and the trans case. The t-case takes maybe 5 minutes total. 4 of that is putting new fluid in.

swayd

Engine and Tranny are at good levels but havent checked the Tcase or diffs. I was planning on changing those this weekend before anything else came up...

So back to square one!
I reconnected the vacuum line that came loose on the throttle body and now the truck is jerking and stalling again! Now I am convinced its the vacuum line or what else could it possibly be? Should I just go pick up a rubber hose and swap it out or could it be the MAP sensor?

PDEM87

Its possible that your throttle position sensor now needs adjusted. Sounds like it is set too lean. Click on cruisers pink link and check out how to adjust your TPS. All you need is a multi-meter and a T-20? driver.

swayd

Ok just changed the vacuum hose because I snapped it when I was messing with it earlier. I bought a multi meter now I just need to figure out how to use it.

swayd

Also, when it says to measure "b" and "c" do I measure b separate from c with the black probe to the ground terminal on the battery or do I link b and c together?

PDEM87

You can hook the black lead to ground anywhere and back probe C. B is black and is connected to ground. You turn the key on and have your meter set on dc volts (something over 5 on the dial).You should get a reading of .7 to .9 volts. As you open the throttle, the voltage increases. I think I set mine around .85 at idle position.It's been a while and the memory ain't what it used to be.It wouldn't hurt to check how well grounded B is by setting your meter to the 20 ohms range and probe between B and a good ground. Should be less than .5 ohms. The closer to 0 ohms, the better. This is #5 of cruisers tips

PDEM87

Sorry for the slow responce on the last question. I've been in the garage all evening.