Jeepsoft

Hello CF,

I'm looking to drain and replace the filter of my transmission. AW4, 99 Cherokee. Dipstick reads black. Did not identify if it's "watery" or thick. Did not detect any metal shavings. I have ZERO idea what the previous owner(s) fed the car. It was government owned for 19 years, private for 6, another private for 1, and then me. Assuming it's ATF4, would mixing Valvoline MaxLife DexMerc/DR 6 be a bad idea? I've read LOTS of conflicting opinions/results online across various XJ forums. I'm getting tired of the tranny slipping.

Additionally,
Is there normally enough clearance to drop the pan without getting the front axle off? It's intended for 215s but the previous owner installed fresh 235s (did NOT lift it though...). I can navigate easily under the car. This is my "first car," and am pretty new to everything. Did my first ever oil change a few days ago, and fixed the trunk on the first day of ownership, that has me pretty happy :]

lawsoncl

Personally, I wouldn't bother dropping the pan to change the filter. It's just a metal screen. If you do drop the pan, it can be flushed with some brake cleaner. I would just do a few changes spaced out over a few weeks through the drain plug with Dex/Merc. As for slipping, check the throttle body-trans cable is adjusted properly. See https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/shi...stment-139441/. Or do you mean it's slipping like it's not in the right gear, or the torque converter isn't locking up?

Not sure what you mean about the front axle, unless you're talking about the engine oil pan.

bluejeep2001

The tranny oil pan has all the clearance in the world IF you can separate the dipstick tube segments, otherwise you can only drop it 2-3 inches. Its enough to drain fluid and change the mesh screen filter but it's awkward. Get the rubber gasket not the cork. The factory pan was glued on with sealant not a gasket so it might be a pain to separate it..dunt bend pan prying it off

lawsoncl

and don't over tighten the screws or you're strip the threads and/or deform the edge of the pan, causing a leak. Moderately snug with a 6" ratchet.

Jim Malcolm

There is never a bad time to change transmission fluid. Use Dexron VI if you can swing the extra cost. It is superior to Dexron III in every way, including handling high temperatures better. The AW4 is an inefficient bulletproof beast and running hot is what it does. I have a B&M 70268 plate-style cooler with a high-end B&M gauge and it's downright scary to think what temps it must have been before.

After doing the drain and fill at every oil change for a few years, the oil still wasn't clean-clean, so I decided to do a full fluid swap. The method I came up with was to overfill the transmission with an extra gallon I believe, but at least 2 quarts. I used a large full with a ball valve at the bottom, preloaded it full of fluid with more at the ready. Open the valve, and started to add more fluid to the funnel while telling my brother to start it. The output to the cooler was redirected into a five gallon bucket and at the first bit of sputtering, I yelled to shut 'er off. IIRC, the funnel completely drained about the time I heard the first sputter. Repeated the process again because I had the fluid on-hand, and well, you know...

The downside is the fluid is now so clear that it's hard to read on the dipstick with these aging eyes...

If you do ever completely remove the pan, it would be criminal not to tap out the holes and install 1/4" studs. Life is amazingly better not having to ever worry again about stripping a bolt, the existing holes work just fine and the aluminum taps so easily, it should be criminal I tell ya not to do it, CRIMINAL !!!

Jeepsoft

Lawson,

Thank you for replying! Referring to your slipping statement, I'm not knowledgeable enough to understand what you're asking. The car hesitates to shift when accelerating in urban conditions, <45 MPH. I'm gentle on the accelerator and it hangs around 2,250 RPM. I have to open the throttle more or let off while speeding up to get it to shift up. When driving at faster speeds/more urgently, it's less noticeable but it's still apparent that the car has shifted gears. The car will very rarely struggle to get out of first from a stop. The car also likes to lurch when shifting into R/D, but only when my foot is on the brake hard. If I'm soft on it or let it roll out whilst changing, car doesn't jerk.

My axle comment was about the clearance needed to remove the tranny pan. I've watched a few videos and it looks super cramped trying to get it out and am unsure if I have the technical prowess to finesse it. Not that I could get the front axle off anyways-- but was wondering.

Jeepsoft

BJ01,

Thanks for the reply! In the kit I ordered to originally do the job, it came with a new gasket and filter. I also bought some ultra grey RTV. Am I meant to apply the new gasket AND RTV, or just pick one?

cruiser54

Return the kit and just do a drain and fill as suggested!!!!

Do another one as needed, or maybe another after that.

That is NOT a filter!! It's a screen. Never intended to be changed ever.

Jeepsoft

Cruiser,

Thank you for the reply! Will do.

Jeepsoft

Lawson, just did this and it's running SO much better, like it was magic. Nearly all slipping has been resolved. Huge grin on my face feeling and seeing the difference. Going to do the first fluid replacement tonight.

cruiser54

Do this also.

IJM

We love happy endings!