mikesignal

if the high beams are coming on with the hazards it almost sounds like the wires are jacked up where they plug in to the switch you just replaced.

caged

no one has mentioned it, and it probably won't matter, but did you try unplugging the DRL module?

i'm having a similar issue with my 99 tj. no headlights high or low. i've tried everything from new headlights, headlight switch, grounds, multifunction switch, DRL module, bus fuse, fog light relay, harness connector and still nothing.

good luck, i'm stumped too.

train.stamp

This car is like the plague. The flaming fuse panel is in the worst possible place for me to get to. (At 78 I don't bend like I used to). To make matters worse the fuses don't agree with the owners manual. OK no more *****ing for now. I had to give up for today on checking voltages at the fuses but I will have at it again tomorrow. Thank you all for sticking with me.
Richard in Vermont

mikesignal

I'm looking at my Haynes manual--the page says it's for a 97 and up headlight wiring. I have not had much sleep and I'm not used to reading these diagrams, but it looks like fuses 3 and 6 on the "JB" ,or junction block, is for the high beams. It is supposed to be a 10 amp. On the pic in the link below it says 3 and 5. I believe the XJ owners manual has the info for the fuses.

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f2...n-block-16457/

the XJ owners manual is on this page if you do not have one--just scroll down

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowl...x.htm#catalogs

mikesignal

I was just reading your post from above--your owners manual is not matching up to your fuse panel.....double check your manual against your fuse panel, then look at the info in my post above...I had conflicting info from the Haynes manual to the pic someone posted at cherokee talk. I think the cherokee talk pic is from the owners manual. I do not have my owners manual on me for my 2000, it is at work. I will stop by later and pick it up to check mine. If you cannot match them up pull the 10 amp fuses, ONE AT A TIME, so you don't forget which slot you pulled them out from. If you have a multi-meter, test them. If you do not have a meter to test them, then I would suggest replacing them with brand new ones. Again, do this one at a time so you don't forget where you pulled the fuses from.

mikesignal

if you have no lights at all I would think you could trace the voltage from the start of the circuit, follow where it flows, to see where you are losing it. The problem I am having is finding detailed wiring schematics/diagrams to trace the circuits. Without proper diagrams it is almost impossible to trace.

Waynerd

Very confusing why they come on when hazard switch is engaged. Does it have tilt steering? The 96 zj I had I would lose my headlights if I messed with the tilt. Obviously there was a broken wire from years of tilting the wheel. Never looked much into it, just left the wheel in place. Sometimes I had to grab the wires under the column and wiggle them around.

Waynerd

Maybe checkout the condition of the headlight ground also. borrowed this pic that cruiser posted in the great info thread.

Waynerd

From my 98

train.stamp

[QUOTE=Waynerd;3313559]From my 98[/QUOTE)

I have looked at that same page in my 98 owners manual but it isn't accurate. For example, It says fuse #3 is for the right high beam but that is wrong. I ran some voltage tests today and found voltage on fuse #3,4 and 5 but #3 was for the right low beam. Since I can't even rely on the owners manual I have to assume that at least one of those three fuses would be for one of the high beams, maybe both sides. So my guess now is that I have voltage at the fuses for the high beams but they don't work. The low beams work fine so doesn't this tell me that the ground connections are OK? Assuming this is true, what is left? Wiring and that rotten connector (under the air filter box) that I can't separate, right? If I am on the right track what I need now is the wire color codes for this connector. With this info I can figure out which wire goes to the headlight high beams and by-pass the connector. I repeat, I don't think the 98 wiring is the same as a 77 or earlier vehicle. Please correct me if I am wrong but that is what I am finding out from looking at different wiring diagrams.
Richard in Vermont

mikesignal

did you test the fuses? seems like there is conflicting/wrong info on the fuse locations, so I would just test all the 10 amp fuses. They might look good but test bad

I would also double check the ground wires as Wayne stated above. The ground may be sufficient for the low beams, but not for the high beams

installing a Putco harness might bypass the issue

train.stamp

Caged - Since we both have the same problem let me run this by you. I have suspected (for some time) that my problem is with the large connector underneath the air filter box but since I can't separate this thing and can't find the color codes for the 14 wires, it has kept me from fixing it. However, I just had a brain storm and tomorrow I will act on it.

What I am going to do is run a continuity check with my ohm meter from the high beam side at the headlight connector up to the monster connector under the air filter box. With this method I should be able to figure out which wire is the supply for the high beams. Then I can go around to the input wire of this connector to see if it is hot. By by-passing the connector I hope to solve this mystery once and for all.
Richard in Vermont

caged

yeah, but ours differs slightly.
i have absolutely no headlights. it all started when i removed my broken pro comp driving lights and wired in a pair of cheap spot lights. they are running off my stock fog light switch and wiring. they still work, but since i did this, my headlights don't.
i have used my test light on everything that supplies power, my bus fuse, which i have power on both sides of the fuse when i pull the headlight plunger. also i disconnected my harness plug and have one with solid power and others that flash with my signal lights. but they work both front and back.

as for my clip, there is a red lock that i had to slide over, then push the tab on the end and with all my mite, pull that sob apart. it was a tough one first time, but i've unclipped it many times now during troubleshooting.

i can't remember if my tj plug is the same as the xj, which i've had disconnected many times, when i swapped to the newer header panel on my 90.

Waynerd

On the side of the multi switch there is an exposed metal piece. When engaging the high beams there is a piece that can be seen sliding in behind it. Not sure if it grounds there to complete the circuit.

Waynerd

The exposed metal piece