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No lockup. Try this again.

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Old 08-08-2011 | 10:07 PM
  #16  
98jeepcher's Avatar
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From: LaGrange, Ky
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Engine: 4.0l inline 6, bored tb.
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Originally Posted by excess650
I don't know what is going on, but it seems electronic. By draining and refilling, you've replaced about 1//2 of the fluid.

It would be interesting to see what voltage is going across the pin to S3 when lockup is occurring and when its not. That would be the wt/bk wire from the TCU to the S3, and it could be half-tapped at the TCU connector or at the 7 pin by the trans dipstick.

It could be the TCU. Have you ever unplugged the TCU and plugged it back in?
Yea i know. How do i read the voltage and what do i need to read it? yea i have unplugged it and plugged it back in. But not to see if lockup would work. Also i have another tcu that when lockup stops i can plug this one in and lockup will work till i stop.

Last edited by 98jeepcher; 08-08-2011 at 10:22 PM.
Old 08-08-2011 | 10:19 PM
  #17  
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idk if this would help, i was having issues where my tranny was slipping from a complete stop to go, it was where it seemed to be in "N" i changed TPS, tested EVERYTHING electrical. but one ROOKIE mistake was when i was checking the trans fluid warm, i had my vehicle in "P" and not "N" this made a big difference and i was able to be the right amount of fluid in. thus, taking the slip away..it is something simple and i am not a mech. but thought id mention it to you!
Old 08-08-2011 | 10:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mrjw1996
idk if this would help, i was having issues where my tranny was slipping from a complete stop to go, it was where it seemed to be in "N" i changed TPS, tested EVERYTHING electrical. but one ROOKIE mistake was when i was checking the trans fluid warm, i had my vehicle in "P" and not "N" this made a big difference and i was able to be the right amount of fluid in. thus, taking the slip away..it is something simple and i am not a mech. but thought id mention it to you!
Thanks alot for the input but i already knew to do this i have been checking it the right way. Thanks again
Old 08-08-2011 | 10:44 PM
  #19  
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i kinda got the same prblm goin on, subscribed
Old 08-09-2011 | 06:28 PM
  #20  
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Okay So anybody who is lookin at this answer me this question. I have the opportunity to buy a transmission same as mine with 90,000 miles on it for $200 with a thirty day warranty. My Question would be should i just buy this and start over with another transmission and new torque converter? I would like to do this but i am not sure This will fix my problems. Please just let me know what you think.
Old 08-09-2011 | 08:01 PM
  #21  
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$200 is a pretty good deal for a guaranteed, relatively low mileage trans and TC. You might want to buy it and keep it as a spare until you get the current one debugged.

There is a write up here for a way to manually lock your TC. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ma...rter-tc-14114/

As you read through it you'll see he mentions running 12v to the TC to lock it. By half-tapping the wt/bk wire from the TCU to the trans you'll be able to attach a VOM lead and see if the TCU is sending 12V(other VOM lead to ground). If it IS sending 12v and you have no lockup, its a wiring or solenoid issue. If you're not getting 12V, its less or decreases, its an electrical issue, possibly a bad ground or the TCU.

I know you're frustrated, but take a deep breath......work through the TC lockup issue and change the trans as a last resort.
Old 08-09-2011 | 09:59 PM
  #22  
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From: LaGrange, Ky
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0l inline 6, bored tb.
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Originally Posted by excess650
$200 is a pretty good deal for a guaranteed, relatively low mileage trans and TC. You might want to buy it and keep it as a spare until you get the current one debugged.

There is a write up here for a way to manually lock your TC. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/ma...rter-tc-14114/

As you read through it you'll see he mentions running 12v to the TC to lock it. By half-tapping the wt/bk wire from the TCU to the trans you'll be able to attach a VOM lead and see if the TCU is sending 12V(other VOM lead to ground). If it IS sending 12v and you have no lockup, its a wiring or solenoid issue. If you're not getting 12V, its less or decreases, its an electrical issue, possibly a bad ground or the TCU.

I know you're frustrated, but take a deep breath......work through the TC lockup issue and change the trans as a last resort.
What do you mean by half tapping. I am new to this whole wiring kinda stuff.
Old 08-10-2011 | 07:25 AM
  #23  
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Half-tapping means attaching a wire to the original without disconnecting the original. Some kits for trailer lights used taps like this. You could just cut the wire and butt splice another in(one in 2 out).

The write up uses relays and probably is the way to go for that function, but for troubleshooting you only need an access point to monitor the voltage.
Old 08-10-2011 | 06:14 PM
  #24  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by excess650
Half-tapping means attaching a wire to the original without disconnecting the original. Some kits for trailer lights used taps like this. You could just cut the wire and butt splice another in(one in 2 out).

The write up uses relays and probably is the way to go for that function, but for troubleshooting you only need an access point to monitor the voltage.
So pretty much cutting back the rubber around the wire and connecting a wire?
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