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Old 07-31-2014 | 11:46 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want.


Any progress?
Not yet. Ill report back when i get that far. Ive got a job interview tomorrow. Going to use my taurus to get too it which isnt much better as the transmission is failing i think. Speedo stops working and starts slamming gears at random times. But i care far far less about the taurus so ill let the jeep take a rest until i can give it proper attention while i pursue a source of revenue to feed its greenback addiction. Once the bills are paid for the month and i know what i have left to work with financially. ill buy the wire and the terminations. Im going to make all new wires throughout. Should hopefully be around 50 dollars.
Old 07-31-2014 | 11:50 PM
  #17  
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Also this is my shopping list thus far. https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=222977 15 feet of this wire.

Amazon.com: Schumacher BAF-MT1 Marine Terminal End: Automotive Amazon.com: Schumacher BAF-MT1 Marine Terminal End: Automotive
New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.

and a wide variety of terminations like this
Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive

That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
Old 08-01-2014 | 02:01 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Crimmy
what i have left to work with financially. ill buy .
No! Buying is not the solution! There is a strong likelyhood that just cleaning up what you have will work.

I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)

Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
Attached Thumbnails No power to anything-102_5968.jpg  

Last edited by DFlintstone; 08-01-2014 at 02:59 AM.
Old 08-01-2014 | 02:25 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Crimmy
Thanks Dflintstone. there was no power to anything at all until i found this wire.
Meaning there waz power after you found it ?
Old 08-01-2014 | 02:45 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Crimmy
Speedo stops working and starts slamming gears at random times.
There is a button ontop of where the "kick-down" cable comes out that frees the cable. Look and you will see it. It's rear if the TB and connected to the throttle linkage. I adjust mine to about zero play. Maybe the thickness if a dime. After that do Cruisers ground check, then look at adjusting your TPS.


I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!

Last edited by DFlintstone; 08-01-2014 at 02:51 AM.
Old 08-01-2014 | 10:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
No! Buying is not the solution! There is a strong likelyhood that just cleaning up what you have will work.

I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)

Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
But the wire is about to break. Its rubbed through the outer insulation and about half of the wires. The individual strands of copper of the OE wire are thicker than the strands of todays copper wire however the gauge im going to use is thicker. Like i said id planned on doing this before anyways for other reasons its just now become a necessity. In doing this i will be systematicly cleanning each and every mounting spot getting them clean of grease and corrosion.

=)
Old 08-01-2014 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Meaning there waz power after you found it ?
More specificly after i moved the cable enough that the split ends were touching. Its almost completely severed.
Old 08-01-2014 | 10:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
There is a button ontop of where the "kick-down" cable comes out that frees the cable. Look and you will see it. It's rear if the TB and connected to the throttle linkage. I adjust mine to about zero play. Maybe the thickness if a dime. After that do Cruisers ground check, then look at adjusting your TPS.


I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!
With this i was talking about my ford taurus. Theres a gear in the tranny that is made of plastic and they are notorious for tranny problems but first car i ever financed and the lady refuses to let me get rid of it. Has been a reliable car though all things considered and super comfortable but when i sit in it i feel completely detached from the road. Too comfortable. But anyways this is a jeep forum not a crappy ford station wagon forum. =)
Old 08-01-2014 | 11:52 AM
  #24  
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I'd stay away from the THHN. If you can find MTW (stands for "Machine Tool Wire), get that. Problem with THHN is that it IS NOT OIL RESISTANT! I am sure that the THHN will work great for a while, but the oil will break down the insulation.

Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.


Originally Posted by Crimmy
Also this is my shopping list thus far. https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=222977 15 feet of this wire.

Amazon.com: Schumacher BAF-MT1 Marine Terminal End: Automotive New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.

and a wide variety of terminations like this Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive

That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
Old 08-02-2014 | 11:18 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jamurrin
I'd stay away from the THHN. If you can find MTW (stands for "Machine Tool Wire), get that. Problem with THHN is that it IS NOT OIL RESISTANT! I am sure that the THHN will work great for a while, but the oil will break down the insulation.

Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.
You have it backwards bud. THHN stands for thermoplastic high heat resistant nylon. It can be used outdoors because it resists water, gases, and solvents. MTW is only used indoors and mostly in appliances because it cannot resist water at all. The only differences ive seen is that thhn uses nylon in the jacket and that mtw is soft drawn copper then compressed and annealed but no nylon. Either way though this is just to get me back on the road. It will be replaced again the future. Thank you though
Old 08-03-2014 | 10:20 PM
  #26  
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So the wire, terminations, and split loom are ordered. Going to pick up the brass marine terminals from autozone as itll be cheaper and come with a warranty. Autozone does not seem to carry ox gard and i didnt want to pay for shipping that is more expensive than the actual product. Any other stores you can think of that carry it?

My only concern i have with this is the fusible link. Im going to reuse it but i dont exactly know where it is or how its tied into the system. Im going to be removing all the split loom and redoing each wire one at a time so i dont screw anything up.

Also cruiser i think you mentioned using scotch brite pads to clean the dip stick ground stud? Im confused on which scotch brite pad to use. Theres a crapload of different ones. And wouldnt it get clogged up with the grease/oil/grime and just start smearing around?

Anyways this should all happen sometime by the end of this week hopefully. And my lady got me a new camera for my birthday! So better quality pics and i think i will make a video how to on making cables.
Old 08-04-2014 | 08:11 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
I don't think so, but a filthy ground connection will. Any chafed wire needs to be addressed.

Scrub all the ground connection ring terminals with 3M #2 Scotch-Brite pads (lowe's/Home Depot) and use Ox-Gard on the ring terminals at assembly. Ox-Gard can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot.

The ring terminals don't need to be "Shiny", just free from corrosion.

Do not use Ox-gard in pin connectors, only on ground terminals.

NEVER USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

.
.
Old 08-04-2014 | 01:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
.
I dont see any of them having a # designation. I see different strengths like general purpose, medium, fine, industrial.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Br...m+scotch+brite

http://www.lowes.com/Search=3m+scotc...+scotch+brite#!

Last edited by Crimmy; 08-04-2014 at 01:15 PM.
Old 08-04-2014 | 02:15 PM
  #29  
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Here's a pic of the Scotch-Brite pads I got from Lowe's. 2 pads, not #2...LOL

Name:  3MNo2Scotch-BritePads.jpg
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Here's a pic of Ox-Gard and NOALOX. Either one will do, but I see only Ox-Gard on the self at Lowe's and Home Depot.

Name:  NOALOX_OXGARD.jpg
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Old 08-04-2014 | 05:25 PM
  #30  
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Tampons?


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