No power to anything
#16
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Not yet. Ill report back when i get that far. Ive got a job interview tomorrow. Going to use my taurus to get too it which isnt much better as the transmission is failing i think. Speedo stops working and starts slamming gears at random times. But i care far far less about the taurus so ill let the jeep take a rest until i can give it proper attention while i pursue a source of revenue to feed its greenback addiction. Once the bills are paid for the month and i know what i have left to work with financially. ill buy the wire and the terminations. Im going to make all new wires throughout. Should hopefully be around 50 dollars.
#17
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Also this is my shopping list thus far. https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=222977 15 feet of this wire.
New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.
and a wide variety of terminations like this
That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.
and a wide variety of terminations like this
Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive
That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
#18
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
No! Buying is not the solution! There is a strong likelyhood that just cleaning up what you have will work.
I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)
Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)
Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 08-01-2014 at 02:59 AM.
#19
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
#20
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
There is a button ontop of where the "kick-down" cable comes out that frees the cable. Look and you will see it. It's rear if the TB and connected to the throttle linkage. I adjust mine to about zero play. Maybe the thickness if a dime. After that do Cruisers ground check, then look at adjusting your TPS.
I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!
I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 08-01-2014 at 02:51 AM.
#21
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
No! Buying is not the solution! There is a strong likelyhood that just cleaning up what you have will work.
I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)
Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
I'll admit a secret. My ground cable to my dip-stick tube stud has been fried this century. Both ends are clean, I'm not worried about it touching ground, cranks great, has 1.1 Ohm's resistance from the post to the stud. Pretty sure it's 6G, I wouldn't expect an 8G for starter current. I guess that must work though. (from CC Kens post on the later Jeeps)
Especially for your 89, try to keep as much of the original stuff as you can. The replacement stuff may well be inferior to what you have. (cables aside, I mean sensors, except the 02)
=)
#22
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
#23
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
There is a button ontop of where the "kick-down" cable comes out that frees the cable. Look and you will see it. It's rear if the TB and connected to the throttle linkage. I adjust mine to about zero play. Maybe the thickness if a dime. After that do Cruisers ground check, then look at adjusting your TPS.
I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!
I just caught that Pete, Shiny! Heck, aint for lack of trien!
#24
I'd stay away from the THHN. If you can find MTW (stands for "Machine Tool Wire), get that. Problem with THHN is that it IS NOT OIL RESISTANT! I am sure that the THHN will work great for a while, but the oil will break down the insulation.
Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.
Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.
Also this is my shopping list thus far. https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=222977 15 feet of this wire.
Amazon.com: Schumacher BAF-MT1 Marine Terminal End: Automotive New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.
and a wide variety of terminations like this Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive
That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
Amazon.com: Schumacher BAF-MT1 Marine Terminal End: Automotive New battery terminals to accomodate the terminations.
and a wide variety of terminations like this Amazon.com: Pico 4238D 4 AWG Battery Cable 5/16" Tubular Lug Ring / Eye Terminals 2 Per Package: Automotive
That i will be crimping and soldering to ensure a solid and corrosion resistant connection.
#25
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I'd stay away from the THHN. If you can find MTW (stands for "Machine Tool Wire), get that. Problem with THHN is that it IS NOT OIL RESISTANT! I am sure that the THHN will work great for a while, but the oil will break down the insulation.
Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.
Also, I think you can possibly get a cheaper terminal. RockAuto has a Brass one (COLEMAN CABLE Part # 903B1 ) for less than 2.50. And a few that are labeled "marine duty" for $8 - $10.
#26
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
So the wire, terminations, and split loom are ordered. Going to pick up the brass marine terminals from autozone as itll be cheaper and come with a warranty. Autozone does not seem to carry ox gard and i didnt want to pay for shipping that is more expensive than the actual product. Any other stores you can think of that carry it?
My only concern i have with this is the fusible link. Im going to reuse it but i dont exactly know where it is or how its tied into the system. Im going to be removing all the split loom and redoing each wire one at a time so i dont screw anything up.
Also cruiser i think you mentioned using scotch brite pads to clean the dip stick ground stud? Im confused on which scotch brite pad to use. Theres a crapload of different ones. And wouldnt it get clogged up with the grease/oil/grime and just start smearing around?
Anyways this should all happen sometime by the end of this week hopefully. And my lady got me a new camera for my birthday! So better quality pics and i think i will make a video how to on making cables.
My only concern i have with this is the fusible link. Im going to reuse it but i dont exactly know where it is or how its tied into the system. Im going to be removing all the split loom and redoing each wire one at a time so i dont screw anything up.
Also cruiser i think you mentioned using scotch brite pads to clean the dip stick ground stud? Im confused on which scotch brite pad to use. Theres a crapload of different ones. And wouldnt it get clogged up with the grease/oil/grime and just start smearing around?
Anyways this should all happen sometime by the end of this week hopefully. And my lady got me a new camera for my birthday! So better quality pics and i think i will make a video how to on making cables.
#27
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I don't think so, but a filthy ground connection will. Any chafed wire needs to be addressed.
Scrub all the ground connection ring terminals with 3M #2 Scotch-Brite pads (lowe's/Home Depot) and use Ox-Gard on the ring terminals at assembly. Ox-Gard can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot.
The ring terminals don't need to be "Shiny", just free from corrosion.
Do not use Ox-gard in pin connectors, only on ground terminals.
NEVER USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
.
Scrub all the ground connection ring terminals with 3M #2 Scotch-Brite pads (lowe's/Home Depot) and use Ox-Gard on the ring terminals at assembly. Ox-Gard can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot.
The ring terminals don't need to be "Shiny", just free from corrosion.
Do not use Ox-gard in pin connectors, only on ground terminals.
NEVER USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
.
#28
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I dont see any of them having a # designation. I see different strengths like general purpose, medium, fine, industrial.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Br...m+scotch+brite
http://www.lowes.com/Search=3m+scotc...+scotch+brite#!
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Br...m+scotch+brite
http://www.lowes.com/Search=3m+scotc...+scotch+brite#!
Last edited by Crimmy; 08-04-2014 at 01:15 PM.
#29
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's a pic of the Scotch-Brite pads I got from Lowe's. 2 pads, not #2...LOL
Here's a pic of Ox-Gard and NOALOX. Either one will do, but I see only Ox-Gard on the self at Lowe's and Home Depot.
Here's a pic of Ox-Gard and NOALOX. Either one will do, but I see only Ox-Gard on the self at Lowe's and Home Depot.