Think ladys would be pretty upset if theyre man came home with scotch brite tampons.

 

So that first link i posted the industrial strength scour pad will that work or will that be too agressive? Wouldnt the oil and dirt clog up the pad pretty quick? Thats one problem i had with using my wire brushes to clean the valve cover and the oil pan. Ruined the wire brush. Could never get all that crap out so i basicly just used it to break the crap up and then wiped it off. Thankfully this spot is pretty small! lol.

 

Hunk of sandpaper works just fine. Clean and shiny like a baby's hiney is all that matters.

 

Why would you attempt to work on the ground wire ring terminals, or anything else for that matter, when the area is filthy with grease/oil/puke/peanut shells, etc.??? Clean everything off with brake cleaner, then flush with electronic cleaner.

 

What grit? 60?

 

Frog talk. LOL

 

Green is a bit agressive but not insanely so.

Be aware that the ring terminals were originally plated, and that sanding them will possibily remove the protective plating down to the Copper substrate - which you should avoid.

The bare Copper will corrode in a nanosecond without the protective plating. Ox-Gard helps in this case.

 

Thought the idea here was to use scotch brite to clean the black vomit from around and on the ground stud. Brake clean isnt going to touch that stuff other than to wet it down and allow something scrubby to break it off a little easier. I already know that much. Once the oil is burned on like that its hard as a rock and the brake clean turns it into mud and then its just scrub scrub scrub wipe down. Spray again and wipe clean. So the only point of the scotch brite is to polish up the ring terminals? The ones i got are pure copper so plenty of ox gard will be used here.

 

First order of business is to degrease your engine bay. I've used these products before and they work great. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using the degreaser.

Spray the degreaser on (full strength), wait a few minutes then scrub the area with a parts cleaning brush (auto parts stores), then use the 1 gallon sprayer (full of water) to locally remove the degreaser. Repeat as required until all grease is removed.

Once everything is degreased then clean your ring terminals, apply Ox-Gard, and secure the connections.

Zep Industrial Purple Cleaner & Degreaser Concentrate

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-gal...6128/100047759

Zep Professional Sprayer

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-32-oz...RO36/100007602

1 gallon Sprayer

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RL-Flo-Ma...401P/100188485

 

Im replacing all the wires though Ken. The terminations will be clean because they are new. The only thing im saving will be fusible links as i dont want to mess with those.

And luckily i already have that industrial purple concentrate but ive always diluted it. Great for cleaning up oil spills!. Also have simple green.

 

haha!

 

Slight update for now!




Wires are cut and labeled. Wewt. Be back later with terminals on em! This is going to be a bear cat. The wires are not very flexible at all.

 

Note from DJ
The next time you try to make your own battery cables try welding cable for the wires.
It is very flexible because it has a large number of small wires not a small number of larger individual wires like your wires. And has almost bullet proof insulation.
This link is just one example.

Welding Cable Information
http://www.weldingcable.us/assets/im...s/RADAFLEX.pdf

 

Umm... not sure if your aware of this but if you got a good quality thick set of ring terminals than you will need a special tool to crimp them it kinda looks like a bolt cutter to crim them tight enough. You can't or I guess i will say shouldn't just smack them with a hammer and call Em good because they will wiggle loose and cause a nightmare later on when all your heavy cables causing poor connections

 

the best connection with that type of terminal is to fill it full of solder and heat it up (small propane torch) until its liquid, then set the cable in it and hold still until it cools to a solid again (make sure to wear decent gloves, as the cable can heat up a good bit)