Thanks DJ. I am into car audio and i never did understand why everyone went the welding cable route! Heheh. But this should do the job for now.

Yooper im not just hitting them with a hammer im using a nail punch to make 6 indentations on all sides and then pulling on them to make sure its as solid a connection as i can get it and from there im heating it with a propane torch and filling it with solder. From there it gets heat shrink, wire loom, and vinyl tape.

 

What re you going to use as a fusible link?

 

I havent gotten that far yet. Im going to use the existing one if i can. Im still not exactly sure where it is. My brain works better with pictures or seeing things up close.

 

Ok before i tear into this too heavily. My understanding is that a fusible link is a smaller gauge wire (higher gauge number thinner wire) that is supposed to melt/burn through to sever voltage if there is a problem. The only one i should have or should be concerned about with this project is the one going to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid will be the cylinder mounted beside the starter motor.

Is this all correct so far? Does anyone have a picture?

 

fusible link protection in the OEM alternator output lead. On RENIX, that is the last 4" or so of the lead before it connects to the 5/16"-18 screwpost on the starter motor relay (you'll see it as a 6AWG RED primary lead entering a small moulded EPDM "knuckle," and the other side coming out is smaller, 10AWG with (I believe) a GRN jacket.

This was from Jon Kelley. I dont know what he meant by EPDM knuckle.

 

I always prefer to upgrade alt to batt with an ANL fuse, and then a fusible link on the main power line into the cabin.

 

Just curious why you prefer a fusible link instead of a fuse for the power lead into the cabin?

 

Does anyone know why you would use a fusible link instead of a fuse?

Seems to me fusible links are a PITA that are for the most part no longer necessary with the development of modern fuses. Perhaps something I don't know?

 

I use resettable breakers they are expensive but will last the life of the vehicle.

 

I think it's because they reliably, (affordabley) provide high amps to circuits that normally shouldn't need a fuse unless something goes really wrong.

 

Specificly fusible links can handle amperage spikes that would be normal from an alternator whereas a fuse is rated to blow at a very specific amperage and doesnt have any wiggle room for a spike.

So for example my jeep has a 90 amp alternator. But that amperage goes up and down with the rpms of your engine and due to certain conditions like heat and cold it will cause little spikes that would instantly blow a fuse in certain conditions. Whereas a fusible link will handle the spike however in my case with my first jeep my starter went bad. It engaged and didnt stop even after the jeep was turned off. And it pulled so much amperage that the fusible link melted to sever power to the starter. That is the practical difference i know of.

Since im here slight update. I was not happy with the results of trying to use a nail punch and a hammer to crimp and then soldering. Im going to take the wires to a car audio shop and have them crimp the lugs with a hydraulic crimper to get a cold weld. Shouldnt need solder with that.

 

Thanks for your thoughts. CompleteCherokee has not said why he prefers the link for in cabin feed but it is really none of my business.

For situations with circuits requiring up to 30 amp protection, Del City has auto reset or manual reset breakers that plug into ATC fuse holders for ~ $4 and under.

OP, I note that that you have had your terminals crimped (never a bad idea) but should you or anyone else want to solder in the future, here is a link to a great little video on the Del City site showing how to solder properly. This is what I am using for cable replacement except I'm using pre-tinned marine cable which should outlast the Jeep by about 50 years.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Standar...er-Lugs/p_1015

They now have a new line of high quality lugs that come with the solder pre-installed making it that much easier.

I apologize for getting off subject here since you have now abandoned the soldering project but thought I would mention it in case anyone else is following this.

As for fusible links, none for me for any added wiring, but as always, to each his own.

 

So you just eliminated all fusible links and have nothing to break the circuit if there is a problem?

 

Many maxi fuses are slow blow rated.

 

I said for added wiring. I know that my '85 had fusible links but am not familiar with what links the stock '93 may have. Autosurgeon points out that slo-blow maxi fuses are now available for circuits in vehicles that are prone to voltage spikes.

Just to be clear, I always use a fuse but not in any case I can think of off hand would I use a PITA fusible link.

My initial current interest in this portion of your thread had to do with the suggestion that someone would use a fuse in the alternator circuit but use a fusible link for an in-cabin circuit. I was in truth just curious why someone would do that. Things electrical have been my hobby for going on 70 years but one can always learn new stuff, especially as it pertains to motorcars in general and XJs in particular.

Anyway, I am messing into your thread and for that, I apologize!