X2^^^^^^ on the preliminary... sir walker!


superdrag.....tjwalker knows whats what.......on these beasts/beauties!




cpnwrench

 

I did that. The first 2 words in the title of this thread is "No spark".

 

Thanks for the lead on the noid light, I may make my own. Eithor way, it's a good tool to have. Would a standard 12 volt style bulb work, or do I need to get a special one?

 

injector pulse can be checked with a test light ,but no spark my monesy on the crank position sensor or the wiring for it even though its new

 

*Check for that injector pulse. Noid lights are inexpensive.

*Use a can of electrical contact cleaner to clean the connectors for the crank sensor. There are two connectors; the one on the sensor itself and another under the hood near the firewall/#6 injector. I've seen that underhood connector "inhibit" the crank sensor signal from getting to the computer. You also should know that aftermarket crank sensors are very hit and miss. With a lot of miss. I buy plenty of aftermarket parts, but the crank sensor is one thing that I purchase ONLY from Jeep. Well worth the extra money.

*Test your ignition coil. They can be tested with a manual and a multimeter for both primary and secondary resistances

*Most of the time, a bad cam sensor won't leave you with no spark, but I believe if it fails in a certain way, it can happen.

*Swap the ASD relay under the hood in the power distribution center with a different one. They're all the same part number so swapping is not an issue.

 

I appreciate the help and ideas guys, sometimes my "internet tone" can be misinterpreted as short or dismissive, that's not the case, I just get right to the point.

 

My Haynes manual says that to check the CPS, check Ohms between pin B and C on the disconnected harness, it should read open. There is no B and C, there is 1, 2, and 3. Assuming that 1, 2, 3 equals A, B, C, the new CPS is bad. I can't believe a new part would be bad out of the box, but it would appear that way. Is my testing procedure right?

On another note, I rented a noid light and the injector signal seems to be right on. Cranking the engine over, I think it lit the light like once every second or two. I wanted to buy one, but they wouldn't sell it to me. Hmm.

 

Fixed it. The CPS was bad, as well as the coil. I think the CPS was the original problem, and the previous owner took out the coil when he tried to hotwire it and left power on it overnight. He did replace the CPS, but as was mentioned, sometimes the cheap ones are bad right out of the box. Got one through Jeep.

 

now go drive it like you stole it ..lol...

 

Still got a long way to go before I drive it on the road. I still have to fix the front end damage, there is a clunk in the front end, and a clunk in the rear end, needs an alignment, oil change, going to replace all belts, hoses, filters, thermostat, flush the engine and radiator, need to replace the trans cooler, etc, etc........But the good news is, it runs like a top, is quiet, the transmission seems to work right, 4WD works, there is NO rust, it's a solid start to a low budget build.

 

from the to do list sounds like your gonna do it right