OK thanks your initial post was not clear.

First of all charge your battery. At 12.4 volts it's only at 75% charge.

That said, at 12.4 volts you should be getting a heckuva lot more than no click.

Agree with BRM it's probably an issue with a major connection. I think I would shoot the Parts Cannon at new battery cables.

THAT said, I would do additional testing. At turnkey the starter is looking for 160 amps. That you fried a starter relay is curious. When did that happen in relation to the new battery and starter? Do you have a good multimeter (clamp amp)? See what the current draw is at turnkey and/or bench test the starter.

 

quick update.

Checked voltage at the starter. I have 12 volts on the main cable, but on the small cable with the connector i get nothing with key turn. I put the starter in about 4 years ago probably. New battery less than a year ago. Starter relay died probably a week or so before i put the battery in. I have an innova multimeter, but i do not have clamp. Just the probes.

 

The small wire should have 12v when the key is turned to START. You can use a small jumper from that small post to the battery cable post (make sure you're in park. Make sure you don't jump to the other big post)). I'd have the key off. The starter should crank. I'll have to check the FSM but I think that wire goes to the starter relay (does on my '88).

If you're sure the relay is good, then it's the ign switch, or the nss, or some wire in between.

Crusier54 has some technical documents on his site that may help.

 

im not sure the relay is good. I have to check the pins on it. It did not have 12v when turned to start

 

so i checked the power on the relays with a multimeter. My starter relay only had 12v at 1 pin. My abs light relay had 12v on one and 5v on another with a red light on the multimeter. My two fog light relays, 1 had 1 12v pin and the other had 0. Could this be a battery cable issue or an issue with the box itself.

 

Hold on the amp testing you'll melt the multimeter.

If I understand your previous testing correctly, you need to test the ignition switch next, and then bench test the starter.

 

I would go ahead and shoot the Parts Cannon at new cables.

 

AFTER I checked the ignition switch and starter. With the power going out when you turn the key, IMO you have to vet out the possibility you have a direct short to ground.

 

Doesn't prove it's good. I'd unplug the NSS and test it with a meter, or just jumper/bypass it to test.

 

Fuse 3 (40a) in the PDC feeds the ignition switch (C1 pin3). Key to Start feeds the Junction block Fuse 19 (10a). Fuse19 feeds the coil positive side of the starter relay. The Coil negative side goes through the NSS to ground.

Fuse 10 (20a) in the PDC feeds to Common pin on the starter relay. The Normally open relay pin connects to the starter solenoid.

You can use a jumper on Pin 7 & 8 on the main harness side of the NSS to bypass it. On the NSS side, you should have continuity.

 

I tested fuse 10 on the PDC, but its a 50a for me. It has 12v. Fuse 19 in the junction block had 0a with key in run and start

 

You need to learn the difference between amps and volts, and how to test for them, or you are going to continue to be frustrated.

Words matter.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+a+multimeter

 

I am quite familiar with what volts and amps are. I am not sure if y'all are asking to test for volts or amps though. Also my fuse on number 10 for my pdc is a 50 amp. If you look up 2001 Jeep cherokee pdc you will see that. My brother in law is a Jeep mechanic who has been trying to help me but sadly he lives two states away. He told me to test for voltage on 10 in the pdc and 19 in the junction block. Fuse 10 had 12v, but 19 in the pdc did not. I also found that several of my relays pin layouts in the pdc were either not getting 12v on two pins or were only getting 12v on one pin. I am trying to narrow down where the electrical or mechanical issue is. I don't know at this time if it is battery cables, nss, ignition cylinder, or junction block. As I have said before in this thread, my switch panel for my fog lights and rear wiper just recently stopped working. My abs light has been on since I bought the jeep 4 years ago. The abs light relay is on the pdc right by the starter relay. I am trying my best to methodically hunt down this issue. Help is appreciated, condescension is not. I do not mean for this post to sound rude, but I am trying to have an open discussion here to help fix the problem with my personal PIA

 

I think this made things a little confusing:

Why not start with the NSS. These are the wires you need to jump:



If you indeed measured amps, and the starter relay is not fried, then I think NSS is open:

 

Not having voltage at fuse 19 with the key-on eliminates a few things, and suggests you need to start measuring at the ignition switch next. Also keep in mind that measuring voltage with no load can be misleading as you might have a poor, high resistance connection that drops voltage as soon as you load it (as happens with bad battery cables)