No start, clicking
#16
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First of all charge your battery. At 12.4 volts it's only at 75% charge.
That said, at 12.4 volts you should be getting a heckuva lot more than no click.
Agree with BRM it's probably an issue with a major connection. I think I would shoot the Parts Cannon at new battery cables.
THAT said, I would do additional testing. At turnkey the starter is looking for 160 amps. That you fried a starter relay is curious. When did that happen in relation to the new battery and starter? Do you have a good multimeter (clamp amp)? See what the current draw is at turnkey and/or bench test the starter.
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#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
quick update.
Checked voltage at the starter. I have 12 volts on the main cable, but on the small cable with the connector i get nothing with key turn. I put the starter in about 4 years ago probably. New battery less than a year ago. Starter relay died probably a week or so before i put the battery in. I have an innova multimeter, but i do not have clamp. Just the probes.
Checked voltage at the starter. I have 12 volts on the main cable, but on the small cable with the connector i get nothing with key turn. I put the starter in about 4 years ago probably. New battery less than a year ago. Starter relay died probably a week or so before i put the battery in. I have an innova multimeter, but i do not have clamp. Just the probes.
#18
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The small wire should have 12v when the key is turned to START. You can use a small jumper from that small post to the battery cable post (make sure you're in park. Make sure you don't jump to the other big post)). I'd have the key off. The starter should crank. I'll have to check the FSM but I think that wire goes to the starter relay (does on my '88).
If you're sure the relay is good, then it's the ign switch, or the nss, or some wire in between.
Crusier54 has some technical documents on his site that may help.
If you're sure the relay is good, then it's the ign switch, or the nss, or some wire in between.
Crusier54 has some technical documents on his site that may help.
#19
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Year: 2001
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The small wire should have 12v when the key is turned to START. You can use a small jumper from that small post to the battery cable post (make sure you're in park. Make sure you don't jump to the other big post)). I'd have the key off. The starter should crank. I'll have to check the FSM but I think that wire goes to the starter relay (does on my '88).
If you're sure the relay is good, then it's the ign switch, or the nss, or some wire in between.
Crusier54 has some technical documents on his site that may help.
If you're sure the relay is good, then it's the ign switch, or the nss, or some wire in between.
Crusier54 has some technical documents on his site that may help.
#20
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
so i checked the power on the relays with a multimeter. My starter relay only had 12v at 1 pin. My abs light relay had 12v on one and 5v on another with a red light on the multimeter. My two fog light relays, 1 had 1 12v pin and the other had 0. Could this be a battery cable issue or an issue with the box itself.
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#25
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Fuse 3 (40a) in the PDC feeds the ignition switch (C1 pin3). Key to Start feeds the Junction block Fuse 19 (10a). Fuse19 feeds the coil positive side of the starter relay. The Coil negative side goes through the NSS to ground.
Fuse 10 (20a) in the PDC feeds to Common pin on the starter relay. The Normally open relay pin connects to the starter solenoid.
You can use a jumper on Pin 7 & 8 on the main harness side of the NSS to bypass it. On the NSS side, you should have continuity.
Fuse 10 (20a) in the PDC feeds to Common pin on the starter relay. The Normally open relay pin connects to the starter solenoid.
You can use a jumper on Pin 7 & 8 on the main harness side of the NSS to bypass it. On the NSS side, you should have continuity.
#26
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Fuse 3 (40a) in the PDC feeds the ignition switch (C1 pin3). Key to Start feeds the Junction block Fuse 19 (10a). Fuse19 feeds the coil positive side of the starter relay. The Coil negative side goes through the NSS to ground.
Fuse 10 (20a) in the PDC feeds to Common pin on the starter relay. The Normally open relay pin connects to the starter solenoid.
You can use a jumper on Pin 7 & 8 on the main harness side of the NSS to bypass it. On the NSS side, you should have continuity.
Fuse 10 (20a) in the PDC feeds to Common pin on the starter relay. The Normally open relay pin connects to the starter solenoid.
You can use a jumper on Pin 7 & 8 on the main harness side of the NSS to bypass it. On the NSS side, you should have continuity.
#27
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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You need to learn the difference between amps and volts, and how to test for them, or you are going to continue to be frustrated.
Words matter.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+a+multimeter
Words matter.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+a+multimeter
#28
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You need to learn the difference between amps and volts, and how to test for them, or you are going to continue to be frustrated.
Words matter.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+a+multimeter
Words matter.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+a+multimeter
#29
CF Veteran
I think this made things a little confusing:
Why not start with the NSS. These are the wires you need to jump:
If you indeed measured amps, and the starter relay is not fried, then I think NSS is open:
Fuse 19 in the junction block had 0a with key in run and start
If you indeed measured amps, and the starter relay is not fried, then I think NSS is open:
#30
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He told me to test for voltage on 10 in the pdc and 19 in the junction block. Fuse 10 had 12v, but 19 in the pdc did not. I also found that several of my relays pin layouts in the pdc were either not getting 12v on two pins or were only getting 12v on one pin. I am trying to narrow down where the electrical or mechanical issue is.
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