I have a 94 XJ with a 4.0 i6 automatic close to 200k. Couple days ago i noticed that when i turned the key over to fire it up, it sounded very sluggish while starting, BUT it did start. Then, over the next few days it got progressively worse and now it wont crank at all. Lights work. Gauges work.

I have done the following in hopes of fixing it:
Attempted jump start
New ignition switch
Had starter checked, passed 3 tests at autozone
Tried swapping starter relay with different relay
Tried bypassing the NSS
Cleaned the NSS
Had battery tested, it held a charge and tested out fine
Checked my grounds

So thats where i am now... Totally at a loss here. Its my daily driver so this is putting me in a real pickle.

If you guys have an idea what it could be, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated!

 

Did you have the battery LOAD tested?

 

Yeah how old is the battery?

 

Starter is bad. I just got a new one from amazon for under 60$ new, not a reman. Works great!

Seriously though, sounds like the starter.

 

Disconnect the battery and clean all the grounds, easy stuff first.

 

It does sound like the starter, the way it "faded". Maybe go under and give it a good whack with a hammer and try it. If it acts different that might be inlightning. Or even whack it while someone holds the key over on start. If that worked that would point to the solonoid not making good contact. Be careful! (Of course)

A couple of times guys swore the terminals were clean, then actually had the ***** to post up later that I was right after all. ;

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Also if any connection is getting warm, there is resistance there.

 

Do you hear a click? Does it act any different when you jump it?

 

Could the starter be bad if it was bench tested at Autozone? Hmmm....

And yes, battery was load tested.

I do hear a click coming from what i believe is the starter relay.

Cleaned all my grounds, still nothing.

 

Try to hot wire the starter. I had this problem and after doing this 2x it never acted up again.

 

Did the starter not work before you had it tested?

If so did you see it operate when they tested it?

 

I watched the guy run all 3 tests and the starter worked fine on the bench.

 

How do i hot wire the starter?

 

Carefully, on the starter solenoid, short the battery terminal to the solenoid terminal, the one coming from the starter relay, using an old screw driver. If that doesn't do anything use your jumper cables and connect them to the engine and neg. side of the battery to get a good ground. Try to start with the key, if that doesn't help go back and try the solenoid terminal to battery terminal test. It really does sound like your battery has gone bad or a dirty connection.
How does it act when you try to jump start it?

 

Nothing changes when i try to jump it. Same no crank no anything. BTW Thanks for the suggestions guys, i really appreciate it.

 

Crank position sensor tested yet?

Don't see that mentioned yet...

A bad CPS will cut spark and fuel completely.