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No Start Troubleshooting (Cam and Crank Sensors)

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Old 12-14-2021 | 06:42 AM
  #31  
Dave51's Avatar
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From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
So apparently a 2000 will continue running if the distributor sensor fails, but not restart? I'm not even sure why it needs one, since the coil rail sparks on the exhaust stroke anyway, aside from being able to identify which cylinder is misfiring.
Coil rail is a waste-spark system, so seems to me that there's always sparks flying around in there to set something on fire.
Old 12-14-2021 | 05:28 PM
  #32  
akasnajo's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
Well, you wouldn't be the first person to install a high-flow oil pump and have the extra torque required to run it eat the distributor gear. A high-flow oil pump is a band-aid that lots of people think they need to proactively slap on, like a high flow water pump which can also cause its own problems. Although you might need one now, after driving with no oil pressure. I think I'd check a few crank bearings while you've got the pan down.

So apparently a 2000 will continue running if the distributor sensor fails, but not restart? I'm not even sure why it needs one, since the coil rail sparks on the exhaust stroke anyway, aside from being able to identify which cylinder is misfiring.
Don’t sell my idiocy, short. This is the second time I’ve had an issue stemming from the hv oil pump (and my ignorance). The first was because the new oil pump didn’t slide in place properly, I removed the ‘stupid gear’, now know as camshaft synchronizer, so I could install the oil pump. I basically aligned the synchronizer to the oil pump. It was about 1/8 of a turn off. I know this because the sensor was angled about 45 degrees from the engine after I reinstalled everything. It drove maybe 30k miles that way. The sensor lost its magnet while driving between SLC and Boise. When the engine came on I took the next exit that had a town and pulled up outside a 24hr car/semi repair shop. It drove fine there, but made an awful noise when I tried to start it and drive into the bay. So, twice so far that it’s driven without that sensor, though in both cases it wouldn’t restart.

Originally Posted by Dave51
Sometimes the pan needs to be pounded out to allow clearance for a HV oil pump. I wonder if the pan was pressed up hard against the pump, and vibrations were transmitted through the pan and everywhere. Oil pump was binding because of the pressure (OK that part may be a reach) but this issue gives one something to think about when changing to a HV pump. Thanks for the F/U.
I only hammered mine enough that it fit. If the oil pump does indeed vibrate, the pickup assembly was certainly making contact with the pan. I never had to put pressure on it to install the pan, but it’s possible some was applied by the time all three dozen oil pan bolts were secured.

I’d like to say I’m done with stupid mods, but I have a detroit truetrack lsd to put in the rear. I’m hoping it helps mitigate twisting of the rear passenger leaf spring. Well, I’ll be happy even if it simply twists both sides somewhat evenly.

I used to be pretty active here, but I briefly became a vendor. I didn’t care much for the attitude I got when I’d post for any reason whatsoever outside of the vendor channel.

I’ve been driving an XJ since 2004. Killed the first one in a traffic accident. This one has been putting up with my abuse since 2010.

I really appreciate the help! I’ll keep an eye open in case I can help someone else out with the lessons I’ve earned myself over the years.
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