Noisy Front Wheel Bearings
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 52
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From: Southern Oregon Valley
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 LTR
Noisy Front Wheel Bearings
Itīs time to change them on a 1996 XJ Sport 2-WD. And because it is 2-WD, there is no axle through the center of the hub assembly, so to what does the center nut connect? It looks just like a conventional front wheel assembly with the nut that holds the bearings in place, screwed to the spindle.
Is it possible that there are spindles there and not hub assemblies? I have talked to a dealership, given them the VIN, and they tell me itīs still a matter of hub assemblies. What am I missing?
Is it possible that there are spindles there and not hub assemblies? I have talked to a dealership, given them the VIN, and they tell me itīs still a matter of hub assemblies. What am I missing?
#3
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Urg, a picture online does not seem to exist.
Just take the nut loose, remove the bearing and you'll see what I mean.
Just make sure you put that stub shaft in the new bearing or it'll spell out a really bad day in the near future.
Just take the nut loose, remove the bearing and you'll see what I mean.
Just make sure you put that stub shaft in the new bearing or it'll spell out a really bad day in the near future.
#4
It's called a "stub shaft."
The reason it's there is that the hub bearing assembly can't take the radial loading on its own. Long time ago, they had a spindle to take the weight of the vehicle, and the bearings mounted to the spindle.
When they went to a unitised bearing setup, they did away with the spindle. The stub shaft is cheaper to machine, and it's also a good deal cheaper than building the hub assembly to take the radial loading.
However, proper torque of the stub shaft nut is still important, since that's what provides axial preload on the bearing assembly (too loose or too tight, and the bearings will destroy themselves!)
You're probably still thinking "spindle" (I usually am, but that unitised hub bearing setup is getting more and more popular...) which is what's causing you trouble.
My problem is that I came up on old F-bodies and Y-bodies, so I find myself switching gears a lot (although I'm used to doing my own diagnostic thinking, so that's a plus!)
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 6
From: Southern Oregon Valley
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 LTR
Correct.
It's called a "stub shaft."
The reason it's there is that the hub bearing assembly can't take the radial loading on its own. Long time ago, they had a spindle to take the weight of the vehicle, and the bearings mounted to the spindle.
When they went to a unitised bearing setup, they did away with the spindle. The stub shaft is cheaper to machine, and it's also a good deal cheaper than building the hub assembly to take the radial loading.
However, proper torque of the stub shaft nut is still important, since that's what provides axial preload on the bearing assembly (too loose or too tight, and the bearings will destroy themselves!)
You're probably still thinking "spindle" (I usually am, but that unitised hub bearing setup is getting more and more popular...) which is what's causing you trouble.
My problem is that I came up on old F-bodies and Y-bodies, so I find myself switching gears a lot (although I'm used to doing my own diagnostic thinking, so that's a plus!)
It's called a "stub shaft."
The reason it's there is that the hub bearing assembly can't take the radial loading on its own. Long time ago, they had a spindle to take the weight of the vehicle, and the bearings mounted to the spindle.
When they went to a unitised bearing setup, they did away with the spindle. The stub shaft is cheaper to machine, and it's also a good deal cheaper than building the hub assembly to take the radial loading.
However, proper torque of the stub shaft nut is still important, since that's what provides axial preload on the bearing assembly (too loose or too tight, and the bearings will destroy themselves!)
You're probably still thinking "spindle" (I usually am, but that unitised hub bearing setup is getting more and more popular...) which is what's causing you trouble.
My problem is that I came up on old F-bodies and Y-bodies, so I find myself switching gears a lot (although I'm used to doing my own diagnostic thinking, so that's a plus!)
************************************************** ************************
I just found the torque for 4-WD axle shaft nut (175 ft lbs), but no mention of 2-WD. I guess they are the same since the axle shaft and stub shaft are the same diameter, right?
Last edited by 280ezrider; 08-25-2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Found info
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