NP242 Leaking
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
NP242 Leaking
My leak-free 1990 Wagoneer has now developed a transfer case leak. It appears to be leaking at the bottom where the two case halves join. The puddle on the garage floor is black. The actual oil is smokey gray in color. Is this normal for aged ATF to discolor like this? Might the previous owner have filled the NP242 with motor oil? It does not smell like motor oil. If I replace this oil with ATF or ATF3 might it stop leaking? Is this wishful thinking? It seems most individuals have leaking output shaft seals, not case leakage.
#2
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Looks pretty aged that's for sure. Simply put. Remove tcase, split tcase half's. Re seal with your choice of silicone and then re install. Smearing any kind of sealant to the bottom section is literally a bandaid when you need stitches. It would get you by but not for long.
Refill with the recommended fluid or your preferred fluid, atf product - dex merc product whatever you prefer just make sure its full. Low fluid level obviously isnt good for components
Refill with the recommended fluid or your preferred fluid, atf product - dex merc product whatever you prefer just make sure its full. Low fluid level obviously isnt good for components
#4
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I would clean that up and very carefully make sure it isnt one of the following seals
Input, output or range changer seal
trans output seal
If you do split the case, make sure you change all these
splitting the case is a pretty big job
get rid of that black oil straight away, and add trans fluid
Input, output or range changer seal
trans output seal
If you do split the case, make sure you change all these
splitting the case is a pretty big job
get rid of that black oil straight away, and add trans fluid
#5
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Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
For someone new to these - fair point
-Remove or disconnect front and rear driveshaft
-disconnect tcase shift linkage, speed sensor, range/2wd4wd sensor, breather hose
-remove the 4 nuts securing trans mount to trans x-member
-Jack with piece of wood under the trans pan and lift up a little
-remove the 4 pieces of hardware securing x-member to unibody (typically 2 nuts and 2 bolts)
-Drop x-member
-remove 2 bolts securing tranny mount and exhaust hanger to transmission
-slowly lower floor jack till you have adequate room for 9/16 combo wrench (pro tip cut an old one in half or 4-5" length retaining the boxed end for this job) to remove the 6 nuts securing tcase to back of trans
Plenty of how to videos for getting that tcase apart so educate yourself through a couple of those if you are apprehensive
Address the leaks and the re-install. A gasket or sealant between the trans and tcase mounting surface isn't necessary here either.
-Remove or disconnect front and rear driveshaft
-disconnect tcase shift linkage, speed sensor, range/2wd4wd sensor, breather hose
-remove the 4 nuts securing trans mount to trans x-member
-Jack with piece of wood under the trans pan and lift up a little
-remove the 4 pieces of hardware securing x-member to unibody (typically 2 nuts and 2 bolts)
-Drop x-member
-remove 2 bolts securing tranny mount and exhaust hanger to transmission
-slowly lower floor jack till you have adequate room for 9/16 combo wrench (pro tip cut an old one in half or 4-5" length retaining the boxed end for this job) to remove the 6 nuts securing tcase to back of trans
Plenty of how to videos for getting that tcase apart so educate yourself through a couple of those if you are apprehensive
Address the leaks and the re-install. A gasket or sealant between the trans and tcase mounting surface isn't necessary here either.
#6
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You can't see those 4 nuts securing trans mount to trans x-member, so (the 1st time) you have to guess which of the holes in the underside of the x-member provide access.
I never thought to start lowering the TC 'til I was ready to remove it, so I'll definitely have that in mind the next time: anything to improve things.
I've used sockets wherever possible (sometimes with very long extensions) but found that sometimes a 14mm is better than a 9/16" - why that should be, I've no idea, nor how it was that to remove 6 nuts I used at least 8 different sockets & wrenches.
I never thought to start lowering the TC 'til I was ready to remove it, so I'll definitely have that in mind the next time: anything to improve things.
I've used sockets wherever possible (sometimes with very long extensions) but found that sometimes a 14mm is better than a 9/16" - why that should be, I've no idea, nor how it was that to remove 6 nuts I used at least 8 different sockets & wrenches.
#7
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Yes. I just replaced my trans mount, so very familiar with that aspect. Not looking forward to entirety of the job, for sure.
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#12
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
It is a difficult job to get motivated to tackle. I was bummed yesterday when, after driving for an hour, I arrived home to find ATF dripping from the area where the auto trans connects to the bellhousing. Torque converter front pump seal leakage?
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#14
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
A stranger in this town
Where are all the good times?
Who's gonna show this stranger around?
Ooh, I need a dirty woman
Ooh, I need a dirty girl
Will some woman in this desert land
Make me feel like a real man?
Take this rock and roll refugee
Ooh, babe, set me free
Ooh, I need a dirty woman
Ooh, I need a dirty girl
#15
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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clean up the box real good, drive for 30 secs, check. I doubt it will be the case thats leaking
use talc powder or flour up near those seals, shows a track mark
just doing the seals is easier than splitting the case