NP242 or NP231
#16
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I think that's pretty much the case, though you need to be on a slippery surface (sand, gravel, snow, whatever) since when you make a turn the tires provide the front-to-back slip. I don't think I'll have a problem with it, for now I've just told the wife that if she uses the XJ to not touch the transfer case lever, "JUST LEAVE IT IN 2WD UNLESS YOU GET STUCK!" Normally I would do the snow driving anyway. I had given some passing thought to maybe swapping in a 242 at some point to get that Eagle-like functionality, but from what I'm reading here I think the best thing is to stick with what I've got.
#17
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Year: 2000 sport
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Hmmm,, I have shifted my np242 in and out of 4 wheel full time at 70mph. I never have to roll backwards to disengage my np242. I have also shifted the 231 at 70mph.
Any legal speed is fine for shifting in and out of 4 wheel drive with the 231 or 242.
A lot of the time if your np 242 is having issues getting out of 4wheel/D its those little covers on the shifting fork being warn out and or shift linkage needs adjustment.
Any legal speed is fine for shifting in and out of 4 wheel drive with the 231 or 242.
A lot of the time if your np 242 is having issues getting out of 4wheel/D its those little covers on the shifting fork being warn out and or shift linkage needs adjustment.
Last edited by Dumajones; 10-06-2015 at 04:08 PM.
#18
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usually its the linkage though
#19
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my 242 was having trouble shifting out of 4 wheel for a long time.. got in there to do an overhaul and the boot on the shifting fork was all warn through down to metal. Once that was fixed I never had probs again shifting out of 4wheel.. On my friends 242 it was the linkage..
#20
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I mainly have issues returning to 2WD after driving in 4-Low with tires at 14 psi.
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For some unknown reason for years I would have sworn and bet a lot of money my '94 XJ had the 242 case and drove it as such. I drove it at higher speeds on semi dry or patchy wintery roads with no problem. Even over longer distances. Then one day when I was checking the fluid level all the sudden I noticed it said 231 on it! Unless someone snuck under it one night and switched transfer cases on me.
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#22
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For some unknown reason for years I would have sworn and bet a lot of money my '94 XJ had the 242 case and drove it as such. I drove it at higher speeds on semi dry or patchy wintery roads with no problem. Even over longer distances. Then one day when I was checking the fluid level all the sudden I noticed it said 231 on it! Unless someone snuck under it one night and switched transfer cases on me. ![001 Huh](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/001_huh.gif)
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#23
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Ive done a few hack and taps now, can get it done in about 2hrs. I use the drilling jig from iron rock offroad. From northern drivetrain 3103-27CV
Transmission Slip Yoke 75bucks shipped. Its cake. If your lucky you can use a front driveshaft in the rear with no mods. Otherwise have one lengthened & its still cheaper than buying a sye kit.
Transmission Slip Yoke 75bucks shipped. Its cake. If your lucky you can use a front driveshaft in the rear with no mods. Otherwise have one lengthened & its still cheaper than buying a sye kit.
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#26
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I got a Tatton driveshaft that retains the OEM slip yoke but has a CV joint after it. Had it for 2 years now, it has been working great. I don't go very far off-road though.
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#28
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Even the hack-n-tap yoke has a little wiggle before it is bolted down.
And will fit 1310 size u-joint. You will also need to determine if your transfer case has the long or short tailcone. Look at the Iron Rock link to see pictures of both.
#30
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As for cutting the shaft,,thats the easy part. The big problem ppl seem to have is snapping off the tapping tool in the threads they are making and or drilling straight(get the IRO jig for drilling if you can't drill very well) .. Just take your time and use lots of oil on the tap and back the tap out after about half turns to clear the cuttings off the teeth of the tapping tool. Then cut some more threads, back it out and so on until you have it.. good luck