o2 sensor help!
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Buckeye, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
o2 sensor help!
so ive searched... and searched.. for answers to this question!
heres the low down, i purchased an 01' xj from a guy that lived in an area that emissions was not required (did not know this at the time) and i tried to pass emissions and failed. the check engine light doesn't work at all, and is commanded on. its throwing codes po300, po161, and po158. the later two are for the rear o2 sensor. i went to napa and asked for a rear o2 sensor and got one. got home and went down and looked, found an empty plug hanging over the transmission.. is this the right location? there is no spot in my exhaust to install it so i'll have to fab one. Also, while underneath i noticed a spot just below where the y pipe comes together that looks like a sensor should be but isnt and it is plugged..
need to know how many o2's i should have, and where the heck do they go?
heres the low down, i purchased an 01' xj from a guy that lived in an area that emissions was not required (did not know this at the time) and i tried to pass emissions and failed. the check engine light doesn't work at all, and is commanded on. its throwing codes po300, po161, and po158. the later two are for the rear o2 sensor. i went to napa and asked for a rear o2 sensor and got one. got home and went down and looked, found an empty plug hanging over the transmission.. is this the right location? there is no spot in my exhaust to install it so i'll have to fab one. Also, while underneath i noticed a spot just below where the y pipe comes together that looks like a sensor should be but isnt and it is plugged..
need to know how many o2's i should have, and where the heck do they go?
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 3
From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
You should have 2 o2s... One in the downpipe (this is the pipe after the exhaust manifold) and one right after the catalytic converter. There should be bungs in those locations. But since there isn't, I believe there is a way to weld in bungs. If you don't know how to do that, any exhaust shop will be able to, for fairly cheap too.
Take a picture of the plug hanging over the tranny
Take a picture of the plug hanging over the tranny
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
X2^ I saw mentioned in another thread the idea of using one of those spark-plug anti foulers. The sensor I have sitting right here has larger threads than a normal plug though, more like the ones on some older Ford plugs I've seen. I guess they cut it in 1/2 and welded the female threads there after the cat. I believe the plug has three wires.< Correction. Not sure what you have. Some 90's Modl's had 4, ground, heater hot, sensor feed & sensor return....something like that!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 05-13-2012 at 12:35 PM.
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I will post pictures later tonight, but I looked up underneath again and it looks as if I have three sensors all on the manifold.. nothing at all on the down pipe except the blocked bung.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
The first "upstream" 02 sensor goes right there close..mine is in the exhaust manifold. It's the one the engine uses to "trim" ? the fuel mix. Important for mileage and just runnen right. The second "downstream" sensor is after the catalytic converter. It just monitors the cat and "sets a code", turns on the light, when it or the cat isn't working right.
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
and i understand the basics as to how it all works, first one trims the mix rear is supposed to tell how the cats doing, but i also keep hearing that the lack of a rear o2 could also be causing the po300 code and the rough idle caused by the miss'. the plug for the rear o2 of course is hanging near my front drive shaft and the cat is another couple FEET away from it. the wiring is no where near long enough. is the cat in the wrong spot or should i just splice in some longer wiring?
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#8
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
A half hrs worth of text just vanished. That's a goofy setup in your pic. check post #2 here . gotta go cool off. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ht=sensor+test
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The rear O2 sensor has some influence over the mixture, but not near as much as the front one.
It's not going to give it a rough idle, but it may hurt mileage a little.
If someone could put up some clear pictures i would be helpful.
If there's no ready place to put them, a muffler shop can install the bungs needed for cheap. Unless you go to a chain store like Midas etc, they'll rape you.
Find a small independent one.
It's not going to give it a rough idle, but it may hurt mileage a little.
If someone could put up some clear pictures i would be helpful.
If there's no ready place to put them, a muffler shop can install the bungs needed for cheap. Unless you go to a chain store like Midas etc, they'll rape you.
Find a small independent one.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 882
Likes: 1
From: MI 48642
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The plug hanging there is for the downstream o2, a bung can be welded into your pipe where your cat was. The bung in the downpipe is for a sensor also. What has me confused is the 3 sensors in the last pic, they look like o2 sensors in your manifold??? I am not familiar with the 01' but I can't make sense of that.
#12
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
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From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#13
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
#14
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
What salad is saying gives hope that you might have something there that will do. I might fix that bulb, get the light working (get that post cat wiring hooked up), then deal with the codes.
Then, the "rough idle caused by the miss", would be front and center. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, vac leaks, Clean IAC & TB.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do you have the 2 pre-cats like in the picture?
Then they went to dual pre-cats they also went with 4 o2 sensors.
California got the first ones, then other states followed the next year.
Behind the 2 pre-cats there's another bigger cat - looks like a muffler - no sensor after that. After that big cat, it goes to the muffler.
Previous to dual pre-cats there was only one bigger cat, 2 sensors - one before and one after.
The sensors after the cats do have a small influence over mixture - but over a longer period of time vs. the close ones have an almost immediate reaction.
The pre-cats - like in the picture - are only a platinum screen that glows red hot and further burns whatever didn't burn in the cylinders.
They seldom go bad, but often get replaced due to stupidity - they are very expensive!
When you take them off you can see right through them. Either the screen gets a hole in it (replace,) or it gets plugged with carbon (soak in lacquer thinner.).
As far as I know, the 2 pre-cat/4 sensor versions all had the coil rail - DIS ignition, - no distributor.
Then they went to dual pre-cats they also went with 4 o2 sensors.
California got the first ones, then other states followed the next year.
Behind the 2 pre-cats there's another bigger cat - looks like a muffler - no sensor after that. After that big cat, it goes to the muffler.
Previous to dual pre-cats there was only one bigger cat, 2 sensors - one before and one after.
The sensors after the cats do have a small influence over mixture - but over a longer period of time vs. the close ones have an almost immediate reaction.
The pre-cats - like in the picture - are only a platinum screen that glows red hot and further burns whatever didn't burn in the cylinders.
They seldom go bad, but often get replaced due to stupidity - they are very expensive!
When you take them off you can see right through them. Either the screen gets a hole in it (replace,) or it gets plugged with carbon (soak in lacquer thinner.).
As far as I know, the 2 pre-cat/4 sensor versions all had the coil rail - DIS ignition, - no distributor.
Last edited by rrich; 05-13-2012 at 02:55 PM.