Thanks Cruiser.
Blower motor is one of a couple fixes I have not done yet. But after finding the brown wire got real hot in the ignition switch I'll be sure to make that a priority.

 

Turn signals working? Radio?

 

Not sure, they were working before I parked it and started this thread. And the reason why I started the thread was because it was stalling at stop lights so not sure if that issue was due to the ignition switch or not.
Figured the issue was due to the o2 sensor again

The thread over at NAXJA was started because at that time the engine was intermittently stalling and misfiring real badly.

But since that thread, up until the beginning of this thread, It was running fine after installing a new IAC and CPS and a junkyard o2 last year

 

Got one at oreillys yesterday including new wiring plugs.

Too late, took it appart last night to see if maybe there was something going on inside that may have been related to the orange wire. Fell completely apart into a pile of brass peices.

Ever since I've owned the vehicle, turning the key to the off position it had been catching fairly hard. So there had been something wrong inside. I originally thought it was the ignition cylinder that was catching. Now that I installed the new ignition switch the key turns to the off possition real nice.

All other wires looked to be in good shape. In fact the brown wire was not in that bad of shape. I did cut it back and re-connected a new section onto it. The wire was clean up inside the coating and intact. So it just had gotten real hot at one time and melted the plastic plug. But that doesn't mean that there is NOT an issue with that brown wire at the other end or at a splice.

 

The bottom of page 47 is the one where it says why he changed the wires around on the AC Relay.
When you turn the key on do you hear a click anywhere?


I looked at pg 47 but do not see where it may provide a clue to why the AC wires were switched around.

The relays click when I start engine but haven't noticed if they do when just turning on the key. After I get things sowed up after the ignition switch brown wire issue I'll check relay clicks with just key on.

 

 

So with those wires switched it would seem presently the AC Clutch is being controlled by the ECU. It would also seem that this was done because the Orange/Black wasn't connected to anything, and this may be still be true now because the Fuel Pump works without a Fuel Pump Relay.

 

Kinda clever when you think about it:

 

Fuel injection manual, page 69 says that the ECU controls the AC compressor clutch through the relay.

 

Not on yours!!

 

You then think that those switch wires were never there to begin with?
I was confused because you used the word Presently. Which if they were supposed to be there and were never switched then yes, the ECU does control the compressor clutch through the relay. At least according to the RFIM

What relationship is there between the Fuel pump and the AC relay?

 

Correction on my part the FP relay is related to the AC relay.

 

OTOH, it may not.

Probe the Light Green and Orange/Black as they come out of the relay (probe anywhere you want, but identify them as "as they come out of the relay") in Key Off, Key On, Run, and A/C Off/On for those 3 (it'll go fast, just set up the probe and run through the parameters on one wire at a time) and jumper in, Fuel Pressure Relay in. Note how much voltage.

HOWEVER:

so it's critical to anticipate what's going to happen with the fixes you're about to make. It's helpful to know what the Light Green and Orange/Black is doing now, but if you find the Fuel Pump Pump Relay workaround and start to fix it, it would be a good idea to disconnect the AC Relay workaround.

 

Finally got around to the test (doesn't tell me anything), and got the junkyard jeep relay holder. All wires matched exactly. So the OR/BL and GR wire Cross and FP/O2 jumper was the only thing different.

FP/O2 jumper wire in - OR/BL key off 0v, Key on .04v, AC on 10.49v

FP/O2 jumper wire in - GR wire key off 0v, key on .06v, AC on 11v

FP/O2 jumper wire out - OR/BL key off 0v, Key on .04v, AC on 10.45v

FP/O2 jumper wire out - GR wire key off 0v, key on .04v, AC on .10v

Studied wire diagrams to where all the wires in question go and come from with nothing that jumps out as to why fixes were done. This will take someone fluent in automotive wiring testing to figure this POS out. Looking like nickintimefims wideband setup is the answer being that the wideband only uses the 5v reference wire and the AC works despite the OR/Bl and GR wire cross...and it runs.

 

Because the fix doesn't do anything.

Normally the fuel pump relay provides B+ power to the clutch relay switch. When AC switch is turned on ECU completes that circuit, engages the clutch relay, and as long as the low pressure switch is engaged the AC control switch runs the AC.

With the wire switch, the AC clutch will receive power directly from the fuel pump relay, but the AC clutch relay switch is controlled by the AC control switch, which now controls both the AC Clutch and the AC. Since both of those circuits are 12V it doesn't make any difference.

As to why the change, got me. Perhaps after the fuel pump relay problem (and there still is a fuel pump relay problem) the AC didn't work (because Orange/Black was dead). The OP changed Lt. Gr. and Orange/Bl in an attempt to energize AC Clutch Relay, but of course it wouldn't work. Then the jumper idea came up and now the AC works so he just left it.

What's your ECU gonna think about that?