NM you did this test already (if it was done with Key Off jumper out):

30 should be controlled by the ignition switch. At this point, IMO that wire needs to be traced back to the ignition switch to see why it's hot. According to the images with the ignition switch, I believe those wires are correct, so it would seem there is a splice (if there were a short there would seem to be a lot more havoc).

 

Specifically, look at Splice F22-3:

 

No power.

I dont know what they are they're rated at. ECU not likely messed with.

 

o2 30 is hot without relay and jumper, if you are refering to NM... I dont know what NM is.




Those are the first bunch of spliced wires. They are good, not melting.

 

Those are plugs to the ignition module.
Had all those wires exposed in order to solder longer wires to its plugs when I soldered in the (very cleaned up), junk yard relay holder.

Note: Was very careful at re-attaching the junk yard relay holder to the orginal relay holer wires with 'surgeon like precision' being careful not to mix up the wires. So were good there.

 

PO solder joint I believe. It sure don't look factory.
This is the harness that's going thru the grill towards the driver side.

 

The red meter probe is pointing to the orange/black wire and the black probe is pointing to the red wire on the connector plug.

It's those Or/Bl and Red wire that's soldered together to the main red wire that goes to the orange/green fuse link.

I have to yet determine which plug that is and to which pins in that plug that the Or/Bl and red wires connect to along with which fuse link that is.

 

"Never Mind".

That test had already been done, went back and found it.

 

You bet. Red is pretty much hot all the time, so that should explain a lot.

Still got some troubleshooting to do (like why do that in the first place?) but now you got something to really sink your teeth into.

 

that sure doesn't look factory at all.

 

That's exactly what I like. With an autoranging meter you really aren't always sure what your range is. And sometimes, if you are on the border between two ranges, it will decide to switch just when you are trying to look at the reading. Did I mention that I hate them? Some people love them. Go figure.


Ugh. I really prefer an actual measurement of resistance, in ohms. Does your continuity test setting offer a beep? Or just a reading. Maybe you can post a pic of your meter?



Capacitors. They are inside your ECU, and the FSM won't talk about them. No need to, as they are not considered to be user serviceable. I mention them only because caps hold a charge, and can mess up continuity tests.


Anyway, I think you've identified that the PO got creative, which is never a good thing! I'm on another forum for a different vehicle which has a unique electrical system, and these things often get hacked by people who don't understand it. They think they are "fixing" it. Standard advice for those folks when they have problems? Rewire it back to stock, then go from there. In the process people usually find, and fix, the problem that the PO was trying to solve by his hack job.

I think that's your best bet.

 

Why do what in the first place, tare into the harness?
Figured just maybe that something sneaky was done in there. I'm learning new not so nice vocabulary too trying to pull it all out with all that crap in the way.
That solder joint didn't even have tape around it. The solder was kind of ruff too.

 

It does beep.

 

Another break through.

The red probe that is pointing to the Or/Bl wire that is soldered into that solder joint has continuity to pin 30 on the o2 relay.

Next step is pull wire loom and remove electrical tape and hopefully find a break in the wire.

Guessing the PO did this to get the fuel pump to work thereby sacrificing the o2 heater. Maybe not.

 

Well there she blows. The broken wire. Was it cut then the other end at the plug soldered to the red wires, but why?