NM, I now know what you meant when you said (like why do that in the first place?). Cannot find a reason why that was done. So maybe A5 in the ECU is bad. Going to undo the PO fix and retest all over again.

The orange wire soldered to the red wires is a direct connection to pin 30 on the o2 relay.

The cut end of the orange wire has zero resistance all the way back to the fuel pump.

Pin 87on the FP relay has zero resistance to pin 30 on the o2 relay.

Can't find anything wrong with wires in the harness anywhere.

 

OK so pardon my bafflement again...

The cut wire is an orange/black stripe, not an orange.

30 on the O2 relay is an orange, as is what I think you're measuring on the fuel pump and 87 on the fuel pump relay, so it certainly seems what you're measuring are not connected.

Further, while maybe getting -0- resistance on the test you did back there was a Fluke (see what I did there) you can't be measuring all this stuff and coming up with 0s even if all the wires were solid silver.

Are you mistaking zero for OL?

Or better yet, what does your multimeter read in a Ω scale with probes not touching anything?

 

I did mean orange/black. And Ω scale reads OL. Got zero on both Ω scale and resistance with audible tone.

 

Got the red and orange black wire reconnected. And just as I expected due to my tests that I posted #211

I then did a parasitic draw test. Voltmeter set to 10 amp setting, touched red lead to negative battery lug and black lead to negative battery cable (don't matter which lead goes to what), Just get either negative or positive reading. Got basically nothing. .01

Turned key on retested and got 1.75 amps. Heard relay clicked on then off, but heard three clicks. Relay never clicked when doing that test in the past. I did the draw test because I was kinda afraid to turn on the key with battery connected. I then got brave and connected battery after the draw test, turned key and fuel pump ran too. Both ECU's good.

Yesterday I also tested the orange/black wire to the fuel pump resistor and had continuity there as well. None before I reconnecting the Red to red and Or/Bl to Or/Bl wires.

Fuel pump runs too.

Something strange to note though. Maybe a clue as to why the PO soldered those Or/Bl to red wire and left the cut end of the Or/Bl wire dead ended in the harness.

I now remember when I bought the jeep the PO had said that he had a wire running from the fuel pump connector, engine side, and said that sometimes the pump don't run and that he had to put the other end of the wire to ignition in fuse box to get it to work. I never had to do that though and I removed that wire long ago.

So maybe I may need that wire in the future. Will see.

 

So the bottom line is everything works normally?

 

So far. Forgot to mention that I didn't have the jumper in between the relays either and the fuel pump runs quieter now so the fuel pump resister wasn't working.
Will have to see if the pump stops periodically though. The PO installing the wire from the pump for plugging in to the hot point in the fuse block must have been because of a periodical grounding issue.

 

So far the jeep seams to be fixed.

Still have to put it back together and start the engine to be 100% sure everything is working

Check out the video (Looks like hell) Talk about putting the cart before the horse.

Found the PO wire switch job and assumed there must have been a reason for it... a bad wire along the harness somewhere else.

So rather than doing the fix back to factory and re-testing I made more work and made the engine bay look like hell.


Thank you Dave51 for all your help and caring enough to stick with me through the PO's Bull*(^# and my nightmare.

And to my wife for her uncanny ability for reading schematics.

 

Well IMO, and IIWM, taking the harness apart was unavoidable and necessary (unless maybe if CCKen was around). It is still not known why the PO did these changes, and frankly some of it appears arbitrary, so who knows what else could have been there. I mean, there could have been (or for that matter, still are) changes that are benign, but I still wouldn't want them there. And with evidence of having smoked a couple things, full inspection was a good idea.

And there are still unanswered questions:

The fuel pump occasionally shutting down. Why is that? Will the fuel pump still work if the relay is out as before?

Was there a problem with the ignition switch beyond visible damage?

I do not understand the continuity between 30 on the O2 relay/87 on the fuel pump (orange) relay and the cut wire (orange/black). What I think you measured on the fuel pump was orange/black so continuity between that and the cut wire should be OK.

I do have a question about that tho...

 

But since

maybe this is a question for her.

Yo randy61 wife:

This question pertains to splices F22-3 and F22-4, seen in the following schematics:






Typically, a spice is composed of wires in the same circuit so will be the same color. On Sheet 20, F22-3, composed of orange wires, there is an orange headed to F22-4. However, splice F22-4 is all orange/black, and indeed, when we look at Sheet 21 and F22-4, there is no orange there. What's up with that? Can you look at those 2 splices in the harness and see what's there?

TIA.

 

Do you remember where exactly the connections went to? What color wire, photo, and/or schematic.

 

FP does not run without relay.

The ignition switch would catch, as in turning key to off position. Meaning that the key would bind somewhat as if there was something wanting to stop the key from turning to the off position. There was a pin in the sliding portion of the switch that was protruding downward into the contacts inside the switch that I think was the issue with that.

 

Sorry, don't remember what the wire was connected to... been almost three years since. No photos or schematic on it either. Wish I could remember though. Must have been to the hot wire because the idea was to put the other end to a hot source on the fuse block.

 

Will get back regarding this when the better half gets home.

 

You are right about the diagrams but if you notice sh 20 shows one orange going to f22-4 and at f22-3 it branches off in all orange.

By the time you had asked this I already had most of the harness wrapped up.

 

That's precisely what I noticed.

This is somewhere between idle curiosity and paranoid conspiracy theorist. Let's say the OP had electrical skilz but only looked at Sheet 20. He goes "Aha! I need to send an orange to F22-4!" However, once you do that you tie all kinds of things together including 7 connectors on the ECU.

Anyway, when are you going to fire that thing up?

I'm going to WalMart to get a jug of Rotella T6. I need bar oil for my chain saw.