djb383

Won't the hi-flow stat cause overheating due to coolant flowing too fast thru the rad to be properly cooled?

kgm

Ahh, I just didn't know if there was something that didn't mesh well with the oem radiator system or if they're more expensive, etc.

cruiser54

Well, if it's the same as the OEM Mopar, it works great!!

1991Jeep_Man

Regarding the question about fail safe MotoRad stats, do a search. There were a good few "AVOID THESE OMG" links on google from failure, and NOT in the open position as advertised. Also, as research has shown, the Fail Safe's do not have the jiggle-wiggle valve that bleeds air nor the premature-flow valve that is supposed to flow a little before the stat completely opens. My high flow unit should be here in a couple days. I will report numbers and design. Also, around Christmas (when I have time), I will do the install and document.

Also, dropping down to 180-190* every 20-30 secs is MUCH BETTER than what I get with stant. If I had to guess, I go from 195* down to 155-160* like bam a good few times before it finally kind of stabilizes around 190ish. And I say stabilize loosely.

Random question... is there always coolant present in the upper radiator hose?

1991Jeep_Man

I solved this by putting a snail sticker on my water pump with my old thermostat. Coolant slowed down enough to cool off properly.

djb383

I noticed the claim that the hi-flow would shorten engine warm-up time or something to that effect.....how does it do that if it bleeds coolant before opening?

Parsnip

So far stants are making my motor run at 160. Verified with laser thermometer. Sitting still it can achieve 200° but once you give it gas it's back to 160 near instantly. A few things that may be skewing my results
1- I went from closed to open cooling
2- heater core seems to have a small leak

cruiser54

I don't know, but my Mopar stat gets my Jeeps warmed up in a hurry and the temp then stays stable at about 200*.

djb383

An actual 40* drop?????......impossible, something besides the stat is wacked. There is zero, zip, nada difference in cooling performance open vs closed systems.

cruiser54

The Stants drove me nuts!!

Three 4.0 Jeeps. All with new 195* Stant Superstats. All ran cold. Took forever to warm up. Replaced each one with a warranty one from Napa. Same crap. Replaced one with an OEM. Worked perfectly. Replace the other two. Worked perfectly. Stant sucks big time.

Kinda like Fram. Try to live on a long-ago reputation but buy your stuff from overseas.

Did you read this?.


http://s278152577.onlinehome.us/Link...adResponds.pdf

Parsnip

So then maybe the extra bit of pressure generated by the pump is forcing more coolant out of the leaky heater core ? Idk I'm pretty lost as to why it's running at 160...I just did the conversion to clean up the motor bay, I knew there weren't really any benefits

djb383

Yep, ScanGauge shows our 180* Stant SuperStat warms up quickly and floats coolant temp at 180*-185* with great heater performance.

cruiser54

20*F. 2 miles down the road and excellent heat.

I have a feeling you have a "one-off" Stant that works closely to how it should. My experience does not mimic yours, nor do many other folks.

djb383

U r getting a false reading (high or low)......actual coolant temp won't drop 40* instantly.

djb383

Over many years of automotive tinkering (pure shade tree) I guess I have been lucky with dozens of "one off" Stants. Lucky me. LOL I always test prior to installing and know prior to installing the open temp and wide open temp and see how smoothly they "float" between closed and wide open. A stat should perform the same in a pan of water on top of a stove (where it can be watched) as it does in inside the motor.