Another writeup?????????????

Here's the short one and I've only had 3 gulps of coffee.

Reach up under the dash on the passenger side and feel around to find the TCU. Squeeze the tabs on the connector and unplug it.

You'll find a white wire with a black tracer on it at cavity D14 at the plug. Go out about 3" from the plug and cut it.

Take two 4 ft lengths of wire and solder one to each of the cut pieces of the D14 wire. Run the rest of the 4 foot long wires across up under the dash towards the console. Continue with the wires along underneath the passenger side of the console. Open the console lid. Remove the two forward phillips head screws that you can now see with the lid flipped back. Pry up the black plastic piece that surrounds the park brake lever and finnagle the wires up to that area. Add an on-off switch to the driver's side of the vertical black plastic piece. Plug the TCU harness back in.

The switch is then used to interrupt the power to the torque solenoid upon demand. It will not activate the solenoid, only interrupt it. Great for climbing hills and you don't wanna downshift from OD to 3, just unlock the converter instead.

 

Haha oh sorry, maybe I should searched first, but thanks! Oh, well one last question... Do you cut the wire on the harness side or the actual tcu module side? Thanks again!

 

It just plugs in, it's all harness side! Pic here in post #24, as well as a link to more tcu wiring>>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dec...105739/index2/

 

I hadn't done that write-up yet as a matter of fact. I'm relying on your input after doing the project to see if there's room for improvement. It's in your hands now.

 

Alright that seems easy enough, the only thing im confused with is the third gear part.. Does it shift into 3rd as long as the switch is in the A position since 3rd requires solenoid 1 to be off and 2 to be on? Or does it not shift into 3rd at all and remains in 2nd until the switch is flipped to C and the tranny is put into 3 or D?

And cruiser says to to split the white/black wire and attach it to a 2 prong swith in order to disrupt solenoid 3 turning the tc off, while 93cherokeexj, the one from the link you posted, says to tap into the white/black wire as well was tap into the yellow power wire? Do these offer the same thing, just two different setups? And thanks for all the guidance and whatnot, I'm still a slight cherokee noob haha

 

2 completely different set-ups. Flintstone done thrown a monkey wrench in the works.

All my mod does is keep the TC from locking. That's it.

 

Chances are you'll get a crap load of valve float and hacking and pissing before you get it higher then 6. Mine sounds good at 5500 when I got to 6 the engine started to sound a little crispy. It doesn't really want to rev over that. Yes you can blow it up if you hold the pedal to the floor but it'll give you warning. The 4.0 is stout!.... Talkin bout snapped cranks and vibration I used to have a v.w. bug I was fixing up. I know all about vibrations. I was just amazed at how clean the 4.0 sounded in the mid 5k range on a stock valvetrain. It's just a great engine... To cruiser- thx for the info. I have run stuff in the oil to clean out the engine but its still gunky. Just almost gave me a heart attack when I saw that gauge hit 0.

 

Different. The other does a bunch of stuff. Hope Slick's oil pressure is OK

 

alright I looked at everything again.... and know I perfectly understand it!!
hopefully I can do these "mods" along with putting in my brown dog motor mounts, new oil pressure switch and changing my oil tomorrow!
alright enough thread jacking... haha... Thanks cruiser and flintstone for the help!

 

There's a write up somewhere that explains how to install two switches. You can hold first or second and tc lock. I think it was two might have been three switches but I like the fact that you can basically decide if you want first or second and you can lock the tc down hills.

 

Maybe here, in post #19? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/get...-29509/index2/

You guys got me thinking, I guess if it locked the converter, it would stay locked decelerating as well. I wonder how much that would help going down my hill in 2nd at 30-40 mph.

Yea! "threw a wrench", Cruiser, I mainly just wanted him to see the pic of the TCU plug/Wires.

So Slick....sounds you found there could be harmonic issues with a VW crank? How'd that work?

 

I know. I just couldn't resist the jab.

 

So what's your .02 on locking it for descending? I worry a bit I'd forget and end up with it trying to run the stop sign at the bottom, what with it locked and potentially the brakes hot. Suppose it could be made more complicated with a relay on the brake light circuit....THAT could get interesting using it to come down the hill, might not need the brakes at all though.

 

I wouldn't bother with it.

 

Thanks...I was thinking along the same lines (I won't). Probably not much to gain.