I was wondering if anyone out there has a new Crank Position Sensor that you could do an OHM reading on, I removed my old one because it was reading 1k ohm between pins 2 & 3 and took it to the auto parts store, measured the new one and it reads 110k ohms. The new one didn't seem to resolve my issue though. I do not have spark either, fuel pump works fine. I read a posting that stated infinite resistance and another that stated 8k ohms. I would suspect that the 110k ohms would be right and depending on the meter or setting that you're using it could be mistaken for infinite. It's a 2001 Cherokee with a 4.0L

 

1k ohms is low, if you have the new CPS sensor in i would test the coil. most ignition coils have a specified resistance range. find the range for yours, test and see what you get.

that said hondas come to mind when i say the test isn't always accurate. i have seen more than one honda coil spec on the ohm meter and not produce spark.

cherokee coils are cheap though. a delphi is $30 shipped on amazon or rock auto has the standard auto parts brand for about the same.

still kind of surprised about the cps. i didn't think they would even run at 1k ohms. mine had something under 1k when i replaced it, same deal, no spark.

what brand of cps was it? almost wonder if it's not picking up the flyweel. i remember a post about a guy who bought a vatozone special, put it in, car still didn't start. got an OEM, car started

don't quote me on this but if i remember correctly the early cherokees have a different reading than later. forgot the year split but it may explain the 8k and 110k ohms. regardless 1k is low

 

I purchased a new one at Advance Auto as they were the only place open yesterday at 7 PM. The brand is BWD

 

Dude check the wiring harness on the engine side at the Crank Sensor. They often go bad, and the little metal connector inside the hole will slide back in to the recesses of the harness. To fix, try pushing the wires on the engine side of the harness back into the harness and then try to turn her over. I had this problem stump me fairly recently and I had sensors and even my coil give me bad readings on my multimeter. Wound up being the stupid harness. Also check your engine grounds. Never hurts to sand those down. Good luck and let me know what it was.

 

I haven't checked the grounds yet, but I did disconnect most of the harness connectors and checked and reseated them. It's a good thought, I'm an electronics tech and these type of things always get you.

 

Sorry that wasn't it. When I unplug an electrical connector, I always clean it with quick dry cleaner and grease it with di-electric grease. Probably won't help you in this situation, but not a bad habit, either. Best of luck...

 

I don't have the link for it, but I used a video made by ScannerDanner on youtube. He has a very specific video of him testing the CPS on a later model 4.0L Cherokee (Grand I think, but it's the same). It's very informative and fool proof way to check the CPS. Doing a resistance check will not tell you if it's working- it's actually a pointless test IMPO.
I don't know why this forum still post that crap in the DIY section.

Here ya go, pretty easy to find:

 

perfect! That video needs to stay handy as the question comes up a lot. Could save a lot of guess-and-spend replacements.

 

You can go to Wells' website and find the pinout for your sensor like attached. Ground pin should be low ohms to pcm gnd, 5 volts should be just that to gnd, and the 3 rd pin backprobed should be low freq output when cranking. It's a hall effect, not reluctance sensor so ohms arent meaningful.

http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...U3028#zoom=100

 

Good info. here is an update.
I purchased a coil on ebay from a scrapyard. I tried starting the vehicle before putting the coil module in and the same issue. Put the coil in and it started on the first try and the second without an issue.
Let it run for a while and shut it down, tried again and it's been hit or miss since.
One other thing I may not have mentioned, when the engine cranks and doesn't start it seems to bog down a bit with more attempts, then I press the gas pedal in and cycle the ignition but not to start but to clear the fuel rail, when I do this the bogged cranking clears and it's more likely to start. I can always get it to start, but it may take several attempts.
I put the fuel gauge on it again last night and monitored the pressure, it stayed constant at 45 PSI during a start condition and when running.

Keep the info coming, it's greatly appreciated!

 

I am still dealing with this issue, just wondering if anyone else out there had any additional thoughts. Thanks!

 

If it doesn't start, but "bogs down", I would say you are getting fuel and no spark. It would bog down because you have unburnt fuel in the cylinder and it is adding more every crank and becomes to much for the starter to compress. Holding open the throttle should stop fuel delivery and allow the cylinder to clear out the fuel. You said after replacing the coil it started right up a couple of times. Try starting the car at night in the dark and watch for the spark finding another ground to jump to outside of the cylinder. I have heard of this happening before, but have never seen it myself. Maybe you need a new set of plug wires and the insulation has broken down somewhere allow the spark to escape. Probably the wire from the main coil to the distributor. Hope this helps.

 

The reason I found this thread was because I was interested for the ohm reading of the A and B terminals. The power to ground. It won't pull the signal 5 volts to ground at all. I have power at the plug, but when I connect the CKS to the harness, my power drops to 1.5 to 2 volts.

 

Do a search for other ScannerDanner videos on YouTube. I seems to remember him talking about how the CPS and 4 other sensors share the same 5 volt supply. I think the video had something to do with a no start issue in a grand cherokee... and eventually they found a "chip" that was plugged into the ECM that was faulty.

It does sound like you Crank Sensor is faulty if plugging it in drops the voltage. I would rotate the crank a little and check it again- it's possible that the sensor is parked over one of the holes in the flexplate.

 

Changing the CKP fixed the jeep. I did have to find out the hard way that whoever changed it out last time changed the harness plug to a 97 and newer style. The parts guy thought I was nuts when I told him the one he gave me for a 94 jeep was wrong.