CHANGE THE FILTER!

the issue you are having is that the back-flow preventer (check valve) in fram oil filters SUCK. it makes the oil drain back out of the valve train and into the oil pan every time you turn it off. this means start-up with no oil in the valve train.


the best for this is a genuine mopar oil filter, and they're only $5 at your local jeep dealer.



don't ever use fram or K&N oil filters the paper elements are garbage and they don't filter worth a darn because of it.


also, with higher mileage and no knowledge of what oil was in it before, don't put full synthetic or full dino oil in it....you could wind up just blowing the motor or making the ticking worse.

 

I was going to say something similar about the syn. With older motors a full syn can do more harm than good. If you are hell bent on using any sort of syn, do a syn blend of some sort. Like castrol or something to that effect. But, to be 100% honest, its a high mileage older motor, your best bet is using regular old texas tea oil. No additives or preservatives, all calories, like oil was meant to be... lol.

 

You are probably getting the ticking because the previous owner was running a heavier oil in it. Try going to 20W50 and the ticking will probably be gone.

 

Just Empty Every Pocket

 

Alright Ill try that first, it is a much cheaper fix if it works... thanks ill let ya'll know what happens.
Sad part is, I almost went with a mopar filter, but I always used fram b4. haha

 

LOL

isnt anything you like that way? HAHA

 

synthetic oil crap, unless it is new from factory,your just asking for problems and lots of them. mopar oil filter yes it is a mopar motor, try castrol 10w 30 high mileage ,standard oil is fine, you could also try a can of stp oil treatment for your lifter tick. just leave out that amount of oil good luck.

 

I would like to know why someone said not to use Marval mystry oil, it is a lot better oil treatment than all the other oil treatments that are being recommended. It has detergents that will clean out hydralic lifters that get stuck because of crud, and it is also a very good top oil for the gas tank, but what do I know been useing the stuff for 30 years in diesel fleets and gas fleets with no side affects at all, I think it is safer than this sea foam that keeps getting recommended. The sea foam has a lot of harsh cleaners in it and I would not put that in the crankcase, maybe the gas tank but foursure not the crankcase.

 

thats ok i just did an oil change on my 89, took it around the block and blew 3 injector o rings apart lol its always something, mine ticks too i tried using lucas it quited it down a bit but didnt stop it completely. i wouldnt worry to much about it.

 

cherokeesteve i didnt say anything about marvel oil cause i have really never used it only on siezed motors ive used seafoam but only to clean injectors, stp i ve had good suceuss with mopars sticky lifters, alot of his noise might possible be wore out rockers i have replaced a set on my 4.0 liter and it took almost all the valvetrain noise away , as far as any additives better then others well that is still unproven lets say personal preferance.

 

if you read my first post I put castrol 10w-40 H.M. in her.

 

Dont worry cherokeesteve, im a firm believer in Marvel! We have been useing it in our racing engines for 20 yrs.


PS dont thread jack

 

did read it i just suggested 10w30 ,oil is like additives personal preferance. i just listed what has worked with my xj 124,000 miles.speaking of reading

 

I put full syn in mine and she LOVES it. 10w30 valvoline (it was on sale 99c/qt)

 

It has been proven to me, stp is just petroleum distitillant, where as marval mystry oil is something like automatic trans fluid but with a kick, it has detergents in it like auto trans fluid does, and will loosen lifters gently, and when put in the gas and is introduced into the combustion chamber it will act as a top oil on pistons and valves and used regularly it will loosen carbon on the pistons and valves.