leo3000

is the pink line where this leak occurs?

OverlandZJ

No, thats where the filters o-ring sits.

The aluminum piece that is at 90* to the filter and goes into the block has a large bolt that runs through it. On this bolt are 3 different sized o-rings, these are the o-rings mentioned. The aluminum piece is the actual adapter itself.

dirtbiker117

Yep, you'll need two more o-rings - one for the bolt, and one for the mating surface between the bolt and the adapter. I just did this on my '89 XJ, and I ended up just taking the adapter and the old o-rings into O'Reillys and having them match up o-rings from a misc. size o-ring kit they had behind the counter. That's what I would recommend.

Murphy

I just finished this job today on my '93, took about an hour and seemed like a simple enough job (consider that I've done header installs on 3rd and 4th gen F bodies, that's a job!). Pressure washed underneath and so far so good, no leaks. Thanks to this site and it's members for the info in this thread.

Combat_Gunner

This is an old thread, but I wanted to chime in here, for the many who will eventually need to fix this leak. Once you have the oil filter adapter removed from the block, you'll notice the threads to which the filter attaches have a 1" hex head around them. Using a 1" socket, you can remove this male/male thread adapter and screw it directly into the side of your engine block, to eliminate the 90* elbow adapter. After buying the O-ring kit and spending several hours getting the thing off, it seemed ridiculous to put the adapter back on there, when I could simply thread the filter directly to the engine and remove the possibility of future leaks from the adapter. There is a roll pin that locates the adapter, it must be pulled out of the block, but otherwise it's a simple matter of using the male/male adapter out of the elbow assembly, threading it into the block, and screwing on a new filter. Access to the filter is now easier, the only O-ring involved gets replaced with the filter, and you'll never have to deal with a leaky oil filter adapter again.

Yes, oil will run down the side of your engine when you change the filter. I own a Harley, so I'm accustomed to that. That is why I keep a supply of carburetor cleaner on hand. After the oil and filter change, just douse the whole oily area generously with cleaner, let the mess run off into your oil catch pan, and go on with your life.

jdtuck91

i just did the same job on my 93...it was stupid..mine needed a 9/16 hex..lucky the tool i got at autozone was pressed in with a 11/2 hes so i got to use the open ratchet..you were right..no room at all

Sc00ter

You all rock. Thank you for the posts here, it definitely helped me. I started the morning finding a puddle of oil directly under my oil filter. Examination showed oil coming out of the adapter not the filter. The accrual of tools and parts took almost a day but it worked out great. The bolt used the 9/16" hex that was mentioned before. I bought a socket set with this from Harbor Freight and disassembled the 9/16 socket removing the 3/8 drive chrome piece. The left over 1" spud combined with a 9/16" box end wrench, an 18" 2x4, and a hammer made quick work of breaking the bolt loose. The other thing I can add is get the dealer offered kit. It is cheap (less than $4) and has all the orings needed. I found it interesting that the smaller orings inside the adapter were still soft and pliable but the larger one from the engine/adapter mating surface was hard and brittle. There were numerous small cracks including the large one that caused the projectile vomiting of oil. Thank you again. This site is a veritable wealth of information. You can see the crack just above my thumbnail.

redmuck

i should check mine because there is alot of oil coming from somewhere down there. im pretty sure my valve cover gasket is leaking too,but i hav a new perma seal gasket to put on.

Slugger

Just did mine today. Got the 3 o-rings from the jeep dealership for 5 dollars total.

Its about 10x easier if you remove the motor mount bolt that is beside the oil filter adapter.

Mine was stuck on there big time, Couldnt get it off with a reg size rachet, so I ended up useing a 3/8 swivel ratchet that could fit in the spot good then added about a 1 1/2 foot wrench to it for extra leverage and it came off easy then, I did it from the top. as I couldn't get any leverage from the bottom.

Also, make sure when you buy the T60 torx, that you pound the socket off thats on it, grind it down so a different socket fits over it. Make sure the socket fits over it enough so that it goes up to the bottom of the teeth. and I also grinded down the other side of the torx, so both sides were grinded. I was kind of hesitant about doing that because I didn't want to strip nothing, but it all worked out good.

The job took me a while, because I kept trying more and more ways to get it off but now that I know how to do it and the tools that I need it would be probably a 1 hour job.

If anyone needs any pics, or any pics of how I grinded the torx to make it smaller let me know.

freegdr

warm the motor up and use gloves when takeing bolt off heat makes things expand bolt come off much easier

ARC 4.0

pain in the *** job but well worth it.. now to sort out the power steering fluid leak..

darrenk

This may be sacreligous but I called the dealer here in festus mo, they said they would do it for $46 o rings included...

Combat_Gunner

The O-ring kit cost me like $4. Imagine what you could do with the leftover $42 if you did it yourself. My 2" budget boost cost me $60. With that $42, along with Ramen for lunch instead of Applebee's, and some generous fender trimming, you've got clearance for 32" tires. Or you could spend it on a K&N air filter. The point being that every penny counts, you just have to be willing to break out the wrenches and dive in. And while you're doing it, you get the chance to examine other things that may need some TLC (like steering components and u-joints that haven't been greased in a decade), which the dealer won't bring to your attention. They hope you let things fail so they can charge you to fix them.

honesT

I have a technical question, Does the oil filter adapter change or slow the pressure flow of the oil entering the filter to ensure maximum filtration ?

Unless I got a well explained technical answer I would hesitate removing the adapter.

SweetLou

Info is definately great, I have to do mine this weekend. So for a 98, it is the Torx that is needed to get it off the housing off the engine?