dobbs

My 92 has a 5/8 bolt head on it and the filter set up right it came from the factory that way .I was told only the pre 90s came that way

Sc00ter

Re: eliminating the adaptor

I definitely thought about that, but it would negate the use of a ph-8a sized filter and I also worried about clearance with the side of the unibody. With that said, I would bet there is no change in flow or pressure as the adaptor seems to be a bandaid to move the filter itself. If anything I bet it would improve the oil flow due to one less turn (restriction).

honesT

could be just a bandaid, I did some research on oil filters and it seems that a high flow rate would push out the smaller particles from the filter so maybe it slows the oil just enough for optimal filtration. But again I`m no scientist I`m just going to keep it on there, I already bought the 3 peice rubber gasket set from the dealer. $9 tax included not bad for dealer

2Evil4U

Thinking about it, if you don't have any tools, the dealer is only charging a half hour of labor for the job. You'll end up dropping $20 on wrenches and sockets if you're starting from scratch, plus, if they screw it up, they get to fix it until it stays fixed. If you know nothing about even changing your own oil, this is probably not something to tackle as a first project.

91_Cherokee

Thank you all for the info!

I'm getting ready to tackle this on mine.

91_Cherokee

Well I was fortunate, mine has a 16mm bolt.
But the part number 4720363 was wrong. Only 1 O-ring fit, the largest, I reused the outer bolt to housing O-ring and matched up one for the inner from the shop.

thecrew2999

this is a job that makes me hate jeep.

this is my 3rd attempt since it loses a ton of oil..

this time i destroyed my T60 socket and a breaker bar... still nothing.

i removed the motor mount and ground down my socket and the breaker bar tip so i got as much clearance as possible and still nothing.. i tried vice grips only thing i did was remove 1/16 inch of the socket and bent my vice grip handles.

once it gets day light im smashing the ****ing L adapter off the block, going to the junk yard and getting a new one.

this is retarded how tight this bolt is i was laying on top the engine grunting my *** off to no avail.

ohioguyok

I like the part dont forget to top of oil ! I been feeding mine a quart every other day

honesT

What are you doing wrong ? Did you let the engine warm up before and not let it cool down before you tried, maybe leave the filter on with the hot oil in it then give it another go...

I know what your saying I just tried to loosen mine with a cold engine and almost tore a muscle so I`m going to wait untill my engine is hot with all the oil in it and go at the little ^%$$#%^ and get er done I also need a longer wrench this ratchet wrench is way to short...

Sc00ter

I would be very hesitant to smash it, you might damage the threads on the block. Remember there is a small steel roll pin to index the adaptor and to keep it from rotating in place. If you do go the smash route, get the new part from the jy first.

Try smashing something else instead- like the guys on office space- go smash the %@$@ out of an old printer or something to work out the frustration. I like the warm engine concept. Worst case, remove the filter, get a saws all, saw off the head, remove the adaptor and use a pipe wrench to remove whats left.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

Sc00ter

PhxCherokee

You get pretty creative with this fix, but well worth it. Mine wasn't too hard, the fuel pump I switched out today was a bigger pain!

darp

03-28-2010, 12:34 PM #20 Combat_Gunner
Junior Member

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mount Juliet, TN
Posts: 41

My Photos
1993 Cherokee Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Transmission: AW-4 Automatic
Transfer Case: NP231
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25
Tires: 31x10.50/15 Pro Comp MTs
Lift Specifications: 2" front pucks, 2" rear blocks
Misc Accessories: Fenders cut, CB, modified bumpers, exhaust, '98 intake manifold, K&N air cleaner






This is an old thread, but I wanted to chime in here, for the many who will eventually need to fix this leak. Once you have the oil filter adapter removed from the block, you'll notice the threads to which the filter attaches have a 1" hex head around them. Using a 1" socket, you can remove this male/male thread adapter and screw it directly into the side of your engine block, to eliminate the 90* elbow adapter. After buying the O-ring kit and spending several hours getting the thing off, it seemed ridiculous to put the adapter back on there, when I could simply thread the filter directly to the engine and remove the possibility of future leaks from the adapter. There is a roll pin that locates the adapter, it must be pulled out of the block, but otherwise it's a simple matter of using the male/male adapter out of the elbow assembly, threading it into the block, and screwing on a new filter. Access to the filter is now easier, the only O-ring involved gets replaced with the filter, and you'll never have to deal with a leaky oil filter adapter again.

Yes, oil will run down the side of your engine when you change the filter. I own a Harley, so I'm accustomed to that. That is why I keep a supply of carburetor cleaner on hand. After the oil and filter change, just douse the whole oily area generously with cleaner, let the mess run off into your oil catch pan, and go on with your life.


This post by Combat_Gunner makes sense to me. Since the oring constantly goes out (as mine has slowly leaking for two years) and is a bear, getting rid of the adaptor makes since to me, anyone else do it?

Cheers

darp

Some Success. And Good News

1. Bot L wrench set with biggest being T60 from O'Reily's for $10.
2. Getting that T60 aligned was hardest part, did so from below. Used screewdriver to pry the elbow part to seat as deep as possible, very close to a bolt on frame.
3. Used a 3/8 socket over the long end of L wrench and connected three 3/8" extensions together about 18" total. Two were not enough. Presto, think got the bolt losse easier than anyone else have heard of. Have ony 45 mins left till Bible study so sugged it back and will finish tommorow. Some good news, did no alteration except steam clean (wish did even more) and remove starter cable hold down bolt. No Motor mount no nothing.
4. Now for the really good news the called for oil filter is bigger than the firestone one on it. So went back to O'Reilly's and poked around and found a Mobil M1-101 which is narrower by about 1/2" dia(the part was concerned about) and about 3/4" shorter but with ruler the gasket dia. and thread dia. and thread count look the same, and it is smaller in relation to teh Firestone one on it. If it threads tommorow this is a very easy fix to this Cherokee bugaboo. It will be easier to cahnge than the old way and NO ADAPTOR problems. Jeep should have done it this way from the beginning.
5. Backing out the bolt may cause L-Wrench to hit frame, but it will be very loose by then so I will figure out something.

Will let you know if it threads.

Cheers

One question is it easier to leave the old filter on or off when taking the adaptor off?

And Thanks Gunner for the Idea.

Combat_Gunner

You're welcome. Just as a quick update, I did eventually end up reinstalling the 90* elbow adapter, for one simple reason. My plans are to replace my motor mounts with a set from Brown Dog Offroad, since they're pretty squishy. Until I do, though, the OEM rubber mounts allow just enough movement of the engine that the end of the oil filter will rock into the edge of the lower frame mount, next to it. It doesn't seem like a big deal until you increase the output of the engine enough to torque over the engine hard while under heavy acceleration. After my intake swap and air cleaner and exhaust upgrades, I found that I would develop a small leak from the bottom of the filter every couple hundred miles. With the filter mounted directly to the engine, without the adapter, it was rupturing the oil filter from hitting the lower frame mount. I replaced the o-rings, reinstalled the elbow adapter, and haven't leaked a drop of oil hence. With good, solid motor mounts this may not be a problem, but I just wanted to be sure to put that out there. I went through about a half dozen oil filters before I finally bit the bullet and reinstalled the elbow adapter. Live and learn.

Sc00ter

I took my filter off, made more room to work with and it got the mess of oil that was contained in the filter out of the way. With that said, I see no reason why you have to remove it. Just extra weight on the adapter when you finally break the bolt loose.