91_Cherokee

Another option is to replace the torx bolt with a regular bolt. My 91 had a regular bolt head ( I think 18mm, but not sure) and it came off without much trouble.

castaway

On my 89 the filter is in the vertical position. When I changed the filter it was full of oil that ran all over the chassis when I removed it. I saw the object that looked like a plug or cap on the side. I was thinking that next time I change the oil would simply remove the "plug" to drain the filter. Sounds as though I'm wrong.

davej3587

i bught a relo-kit from summit and moced my filter housing next to my unibody rail under the passenger seat

Captain_America

Been reading this thread, thinking the whole time a relocation would be the best option to let the filter sit vertically like a Chevy does....

Do you have a link to the kit you bought?

wildspear

2000 Cherokee, I-6, aw-4

I'm swapping engines so the "new to me (no idea what year the engine is)" engine is on a stand and I thought it would be the best time to get rid of the adapter. Thing is the "new to me" oil filter adapter's t-60 hole is all rounded and I can't get a bite with anything. I read some one mentioned using a sawzall, where would I make the cut?

XJGrason

ummm i just changed my oil and filter yesterday >.< dangit! and now its leaking even faster so i climbed under the jeep and saw oil dripping or running under the oil filter...but does it run all the way to he oil pan or is it another leak?

also how much of a pain in the **** is this job?
i read every comment under this thread but...idk

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

wildspear

Give this a read;

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/com...herokee-75462/

XJGrason

thanks but im not looking to eliminate the adapter

HCCAFan

Sure the old gasket isn't still on there, too?

XJGrason

pretty sure its not....

Slugger

Its a easy job. If i had to do mine again i could do it in less then a hour since I know what I need and what exactly to do. If you read up enough it should be easy for you also.
I dont think it would be dripping down the oil pan, but I think it could be if its leaking enough mine wasnt a major leak it just leaked enough that it leaked from the filter. i know my rear main seal is leaking, and it is dripping from the oil pan. I know its the rear main seal for sure because I replaced my valve cover and oil filter adapter gasket/o rings already.

OverlandZJ

^^ This.

Looking at the pic it appears that there is a red oring.. and possibly a black one as well. Easy enough to check, pull the filter and verify it. You wont lose much oil.

I consider myself a good home mechanic... and i'v been guilty of doing this once myself when i got complacent and didnt verify the old oring was off before installing a new filter.

Another possibility is that you overtightened the filter distorting the oring. Just install hand tight with no filter wrench.

If it all checks out i'd be thinking you need to replace the adapter oring kit.

darp

Hi,

Went wheeling, rocks, mudholes, snow deep enough that got stuck (sinking thru crust to powder below about 20" deep plowing). XJ was covered in mud after it was over.

Hard to figure how the engine could shift forward enough to get the oil filter to bang the frame mount but I think it might have can see tiny square spot on outside corner of filter. Then again Frams do have squared off corners. But I think it did hit and as I expected, zero problem. Now my Jeep does not leak a single drop overnite, the rear main was never the issue.

As have noted the hollow bolt the filter screws onto is huge and very strong and if there was ever contact, the filter would simply dent. Square oil filter seals are as reliable as they come. You can prove that the next time you change the oil wack it with a hammer first before removing it, it will not leak.

BTW the engine shift could have been result of 1 mile hill climb in icy 12" deep ruts in snow on mud. Streering was meaningless where ever the icy ruts went the Jeep violently followed them, I did it at high speed as did it in 2wd high.

So still most happy that did the adaptor elimination. Never will deal with that issue again.

Cheers

Captain_America

I would weld a bolt to the t-60 bolt

darp

I used a t60 L Wrench got from O'Riellys put a pipe on it (I used a socket and extentions to get 20") to break it loose. Then use a t55 L Wrench to hand back it out. Very easy and fast and no special tool making. $9.95 for set of 6-7 L wrenches.

Cheers