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- Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984 to 1996 How to Repair Oil Filter Adapter Leak
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Oil Filter Adapter fix
#61
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
^^ This.
Looking at the pic it appears that there is a red oring.. and possibly a black one as well. Easy enough to check, pull the filter and verify it. You wont lose much oil.
I consider myself a good home mechanic... and i'v been guilty of doing this once myself when i got complacent and didnt verify the old oring was off before installing a new filter.
Another possibility is that you overtightened the filter distorting the oring. Just install hand tight with no filter wrench.
If it all checks out i'd be thinking you need to replace the adapter oring kit.
Looking at the pic it appears that there is a red oring.. and possibly a black one as well. Easy enough to check, pull the filter and verify it. You wont lose much oil.
I consider myself a good home mechanic... and i'v been guilty of doing this once myself when i got complacent and didnt verify the old oring was off before installing a new filter.
Another possibility is that you overtightened the filter distorting the oring. Just install hand tight with no filter wrench.
If it all checks out i'd be thinking you need to replace the adapter oring kit.
#62
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Is the leak coming from where that oring is.. or coming from the adapter?
If it appears to be coming from the filter i would remove and inspect it. Overtightening could be causing the leak, or if the oring stayed behind from the old filter.
#63
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Just one oring. What i thought was a black oring could be just a void between ring and filter.
Is the leak coming from where that oring is.. or coming from the adapter?
If it appears to be coming from the filter i would remove and inspect it. Overtightening could be causing the leak, or if the oring stayed behind from the old filter.
Is the leak coming from where that oring is.. or coming from the adapter?
If it appears to be coming from the filter i would remove and inspect it. Overtightening could be causing the leak, or if the oring stayed behind from the old filter.
#64
Glad see the posts on the oil o ring
im glad to see the post on fixing this problem, mine has the same problem. I have a question, pertaining to a oil leak though.
Mine may have the rear main seal leak, how will i know for sure if it is a 1 piece or a 2 piece seal?
I know the books call for 1 piece at advance, i just want to make sure before i start.
Thanks for any help!
Mine may have the rear main seal leak, how will i know for sure if it is a 1 piece or a 2 piece seal?
I know the books call for 1 piece at advance, i just want to make sure before i start.
Thanks for any help!
#65
It's going to be a 2-piece for sure on the 4.0L
I can't see how a "1-piece" could be installed. You have to remove the rear bearing cap and one of the pieces is in that cap.
I can't see how a "1-piece" could be installed. You have to remove the rear bearing cap and one of the pieces is in that cap.
#66
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
First off you should go to the stealership, I mean dealership and buy the 3 pack of O rings for the oil filter adapter and change them... usually it is only the big one that is the cause for the leak but why take a chance it is only $10 taxes in at the dealership for the 3 pack of O rings... I have read they only charge $45 to do the swap
Then hand tighten the bolts on the oil pan not hard enough to warp the oil pan just enough to snug things up again, use one hand and tighten as hard as you can is a good senerio, then maybe tighten just a little more some bolts may turn easy and others...
Then do the same for the tranny pan.
Then spend the money you saved on Beer
I did the whole oil pan gasket, trans pan filter& gasket, rear main seal, oil filter adapter o ring and I would just try the above and if that does not stop the leaks the go ahead and getter done
Then hand tighten the bolts on the oil pan not hard enough to warp the oil pan just enough to snug things up again, use one hand and tighten as hard as you can is a good senerio, then maybe tighten just a little more some bolts may turn easy and others...
Then do the same for the tranny pan.
Then spend the money you saved on Beer
I did the whole oil pan gasket, trans pan filter& gasket, rear main seal, oil filter adapter o ring and I would just try the above and if that does not stop the leaks the go ahead and getter done
Last edited by honesT; 02-17-2012 at 11:44 AM.
#67
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear main seal link with pic`s http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain
Rear main seal was a 2 piece on my 96 and should be on all other inline engines as far as I know but I`m not a mechanic sorry...
I could only guess that someone got confused with the oil pan gasket that you can get in a 2 peice set but better off going with the rubber 1 peice gasket. Happy wrenching
Another link on rear main seal http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
Rear main seal was a 2 piece on my 96 and should be on all other inline engines as far as I know but I`m not a mechanic sorry...
I could only guess that someone got confused with the oil pan gasket that you can get in a 2 peice set but better off going with the rubber 1 peice gasket. Happy wrenching
Another link on rear main seal http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
Last edited by honesT; 01-14-2012 at 10:15 PM.
#68
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.oL H.O. 784 injectors, EV6 to EV1 connectors, APN header, Dynomax exhaust
4.0's are two piece. To change a 1 piece you'd have to remove the trans.
Side note, chilton/haynes shop manuals say to remove trans....books, what do they know!?!
Side note, chilton/haynes shop manuals say to remove trans....books, what do they know!?!
#69
oilfilter leak
I have a 98 4.0 with a leak between the filter and the adapter would this be the same o-ring problem. Sorry if i seem dense its 5am and i got one eye open while reading this.
thanks,
Bob
P.S. great site found a lotta helpfull items in here keep up the great work
thanks,
Bob
P.S. great site found a lotta helpfull items in here keep up the great work
#70
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.oL H.O. 784 injectors, EV6 to EV1 connectors, APN header, Dynomax exhaust
If on the otherhand the housing itself (at the block or where the thru bolt meets the housing) is leaking, its the o-rings.
#71
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Originally Posted by duafacia
4.0's are two piece. To change a 1 piece you'd have to remove the trans.
Side note, chilton/haynes shop manuals say to remove trans....books, what do they know!?!
Side note, chilton/haynes shop manuals say to remove trans....books, what do they know!?!
Just shows you shouldn't trust people you don't know and don't believe everything you read
#72
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Year: 1992 2dr Sport 2wd & 1992 4dr Laredo 4x4
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter H.O.
I have a "92 with the upside down filter.......I use the tallest one because I get more oil cap & more filter surface area. I get 6.5 qts oil in.
#73
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO K&N filter #703 injectors
same problem, just stripped out the inside of the torx bolt, now how do I get it off???
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
#74
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sorry to hear that, You should have gone at it when the engine was hot just take your time so you don`t get burnt. I did and the bolt turned no problem...... No draining oil, no need for that crap really just take a minute and think it through, you drain the oil the engine cools faster and the steel will tighten up.
When I did mine I took it for a drive untill the temp gauge was at the normal opterating area, or just go for a 5 minute drive. Left the oil in the engine and left the oil filter on to keep things warm, just make sure you loosen it enough so it not retarded tight,
I removed no motor mounts, use a extra long wrench and a torque bit crawl under and find the right angle , you get better leverage when your on your back, double and triple check your turning counter clock wise then take another minute and be 100% positive your turning the bolt counter clock wise cuz it`s easy to get confused when your under there. I made this mistake even after double checked and checked again when you get it loose, only takes a couple litle turns then go back at it from the above with a ratcheting wrench to make things a little easier & faster. install in the reverse. check oil when done
When I did mine I took it for a drive untill the temp gauge was at the normal opterating area, or just go for a 5 minute drive. Left the oil in the engine and left the oil filter on to keep things warm, just make sure you loosen it enough so it not retarded tight,
I removed no motor mounts, use a extra long wrench and a torque bit crawl under and find the right angle , you get better leverage when your on your back, double and triple check your turning counter clock wise then take another minute and be 100% positive your turning the bolt counter clock wise cuz it`s easy to get confused when your under there. I made this mistake even after double checked and checked again when you get it loose, only takes a couple litle turns then go back at it from the above with a ratcheting wrench to make things a little easier & faster. install in the reverse. check oil when done
Last edited by honesT; 02-18-2012 at 08:43 AM.