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Old 09-14-2015, 04:36 PM
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Oil Filter Adapter fix

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Old 02-17-2012, 04:34 PM
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I second the heating of the engine and the use of vise grips. You will probably trash the bolt and possibly the adapter. Worst case scenario, a sawsall cutting the adapter half way through and using the same vise grips to remove what is left of the bolt. At this point you will need a new adapter and bolt, but at least you will be starting at a clean slate. I would work on getting the bolt and adapter in hand now before any cutting as at the very least your bolt will have to be replaced. Do it while the car is still driveable unless you have another set of wheels. Wager both parts can be gotten cheaply from a JY.
Old 02-17-2012, 06:44 PM
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Get a bolt from the jy, its a dealer part so pay lots of money at the stealership or get it from the junk yard.
Old 02-18-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Sc00ter
I second the heating of the engine and the use of vise grips. You will probably trash the bolt and possibly the adapter. Worst case scenario, a sawsall cutting the adapter half way through and using the same vise grips to remove what is left of the bolt. At this point you will need a new adapter and bolt, but at least you will be starting at a clean slate. I would work on getting the bolt and adapter in hand now before any cutting as at the very least your bolt will have to be replaced. Do it while the car is still driveable unless you have another set of wheels. Wager both parts can be gotten cheaply from a JY.
A hot engine apparently works, I did it cold but in terms of how and what to get it out with, no special tools are required or remving the motor mount. Simply use a TORX L Wrench, they make em that big and they are cheap O'Rielly has em.. Then slide a pipe over the long end, it may take 20-24" pipe if its super stuck. That is all there is to it.

On the fellow that stripped it, likely you had it half in. Spray it with wd40, use a coat hanger to clean it out completely, there may be enough to still grab it.
Old 02-28-2012, 08:13 PM
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Default 1/2"-9/16" combo wrench

Duct taping T60 torx bit, punched out of its 1/2" drive socket, to a $10 craftsman combo wrench with boxed 12-point 1/2" on one end and 9/16" on the other (beefiest/longest 1/2" wrench on the shelf), did the trick, with a bigger 12-point wrench as a cheater did the trick with about 60 foot pounds of torque.

Wood stake jammed in to keep torx firmly in. No sign of Loctite.

Used the T55 L wrench for the easy turns, as T60 L did not fit in the ZJ. Just did the one big O-ring from Napa.

Two different mechanics quoted $80-100, so now I have $30 of tools and hopefully a stop to my leak.
Old 02-28-2012, 08:20 PM
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I just replaced all my orings im my filter adapter. Such a pain but now i dont have to put oil in every other day.
Old 04-14-2012, 09:37 PM
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I'm going thru the same garbage now with my adapter too. I'm so annoyed that I've already walked away from it twice. I got the t60 but my hands are huge. Which angle is the best to approach it like from the undercarriage or thru the to of the engine compartment?
Old 04-15-2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rmbakelaar
I'm going thru the same garbage now with my adapter too. I'm so annoyed that I've already walked away from it twice. I got the t60 but my hands are huge. Which angle is the best to approach it like from the undercarriage or thru the to of the engine compartment?

BOTH, break the tension from the bottom then do the rest from the top end. Reverse to install.
Old 02-28-2014, 11:36 PM
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If the o-ring kit has 3 o-rings, and one is for the adapter, and one is for the bolt, what is the third o-ring for? (edit) oh never mind, two for the bolt

Last edited by ANZAC; 02-28-2014 at 11:49 PM.
Old 03-01-2014, 01:54 AM
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Use a cheater with the t60 and combo wrench. Switch to the t55 when clearance becomes an issue like others have stated.
Old 03-01-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ptreaster
same problem, just stripped out the inside of the torx bolt, now how do I get it off???
Any ideas??
I also did this, but while tightening it back up (should have waited to get a new one from the JY because mine was all rusty )

I stripped it even more trying to get it back out, but it is in there tight enough that its not leaking at all.

I am going to get my friend with an air grinder to help me cut it off. Really not that big of a deal, except maneuvering the grinder in place and not starting a fire. Cut the adapter until you make it through the bolt (its hollow if you remember, so probably wont be that difficult).

Get the rest of the bolt out with vicegrips or something of that nature and replace with new parts.
Old 03-02-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by honesT
Rear main seal link with pic`s http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain

Rear main seal was a 2 piece on my 96 and should be on all other inline engines as far as I know but I`m not a mechanic sorry...

I could only guess that someone got confused with the oil pan gasket that you can get in a 2 peice set but better off going with the rubber 1 peice gasket. Happy wrenching

Another link on rear main seal http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm


Just a heads up, I mentioned above that the rubber gasket is best and have learned that to be false.
If you change your oil pan gasket and want it to NOT LEAK then go to the dealership and buy the original CORK gasket, it`s harder to install but it will not leak if done right or so I have been told by trusted sources ( Jeep specialized Mechanics )


Cheers
Old 03-08-2014, 08:55 PM
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So I went to fix this leak today and found out my torx bolt was stripped. One sawzall, 3 blades, and 3 beers and a lot of cussing later I got it off. What a pain in the A@@! Just screwed the oil filter right to the block for now.
Old 03-08-2014, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by honesT

Just a heads up, I mentioned above that the rubber gasket is best and have learned that to be false.
If you change your oil pan gasket and want it to NOT LEAK then go to the dealership and buy the original CORK gasket, it`s harder to install but it will not leak if done right or so I have been told by trusted sources ( Jeep specialized Mechanics )

Cheers
I have rubber gaskets on my oil pan and head cover, no leaks what so ever. The key to not leaking is to follow proper installations procedures and rechecking tightness ever so often.
Old 03-09-2014, 04:35 PM
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I just eliminated the adapter and now filter goes right on the engine block.
Old 08-13-2014, 12:36 PM
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Just putting in my two cents.

DO NOT BUY CHEAP O-RINGS LIKE THE DORMAN HELP PACKS!

I did and I have had to do this job all over again. This time I used Mopar o-rings and they worked just fine. While comparing the two sets I noticed the Mopar rings are about 1/3 thicker than the cheaper ones. The large main ring wasn't thick enough on the cheap set to make a proper seal. They failed two days in. I was leaking more oil than I was originally.

With the Mopar rings I am on my second week and not a drop. I expect them to last another 150,000+ miles.


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