Does anybody have a brand and part number for a short oil filter thatll fit in there without the adapter?

 

fram ph 3614

 

quaker state is qs3614.

make sure your mounts are nice and strong though, popping a filter on the trail would suck

 

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...&Submit=Search

Handy website, it provides all the cross numbers.

 

Rewster,

Yes, I posted about completly eliminating the 90 deg adapter and o-ring because it will go out again, I still have an oil spot from a year ago. The taking the hollowbolt from adaptor, going straight into the block then simply spining on an oil filter (smaller OF to fit) does work.

I have had one problem after 20,000 miles. I go down a 2/3 mile 2,000' drop trail, rather frequently and with 178k the engine mounts are soft and the engine goes forwardand dents the OF with the engine mount supprt. On mine a 3/8" gap.

With Fram it never leaks but with Purolator extra duty 99% OF it did open a leak in OF case as guess since better with metal endcaps inside the purolator case can not dent as much and it did develope a split.

Unfortanately it is very hard to get to that spot to grind back the frame support another 1/4" which would have no effect on strength, its just extra metal. So I rounded it with file. Just had this problem.

My plan is to put a poly engine mount in so it does not shift as much. or if anyone has another idea to prevent enging from shifting forward?

So check yours for clearance. You can do teh swap without losing teh ability to go back to adaptor at no cost, just swap the hollow bolt back.

 

Hey guys, do you think something like this is an option?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51715/10002/-1

 

yes that is another solution, one possible downside is that it might increase time to get oil pressure, refilling hose. I would check that.

If you go that far maybe you want to add a oil cooler while at it.

 

Great thread! and great idea Darp! Now to figure out where to mount the coolers (I would do a trans cooler too) Maybe tucked up under my winch bumper!
Every time I read one of these great threads it cost me money. Oh well, I am so far ahead selling my Mini Cooper S and getting an XJ. The XJ also keeps me in the shop and out of the house .......

This looks like it might fit the bill and does trans and engine cooler with remote filter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4978/

 

For those with a welder, making a tool is a cinch and surprisingly it doesn't take as much force as those have suggested. I swapped mine out last night and only added 20 some od mins to my regular change time. I would like to note that my '97 had zero loc-tite residue on the threads. I see no reason to loc-tite it and outside making a tool, this job is incredibly easy to do. I don't see a good reason to remove the adapter, they don't leak THAT often. Just fix it and worry about it in another 100k miles; lol.

I bought a T60 that was pressed into a 1/2" drive socket. Using a 4" cutting wheel, I split the drive socket and used and arbor press to remove the T60 bit. Then welded it to the end of some 5/8" bar stock @~18" long. Broke it free from the bottom and never needed to disconnect the starter.

 

bump, cause if you spend the extre $1.20 you can get some nice brown, viton orings that are designed for corrosive materials and higher temps...it may be like $2.40 but it will outlast your jeep, reg orings will be fine cause engine oil is not corrosive, but high temp/ viton wont hurt...

 

"regular", which is likely buna, is resistant to a lot more than "non-corrosives" but you're right about a higher temperature operating range. Most Viton's are good to 350*F and above, while Buna is only good to ~ 250*F

My concerns are getting the exact specs of the required o-rings to source the viton ones.

 

Replaced the leaky adapter O ring today - used the Torx key set from O Reilly's and a jack handle for more leverage on the T-60, used the T-55 for the last few turns. Old O ring had gone hard and stuck to the engine block - greased the new ring to stop it falling out, I didnt remove the filter.
Thanks for the advice from everyone on here.

Ian

 

I found that the WIX OF that fits same apps, the 51348 is 2 13/16" instead of 3" OD at the top (away from block), which is where with worn motor mounts it could bang aganist motor mount support on steep downhill 4wd trials. It is just not the specs, I compared them visually. So now using a WIX 51438 for the Oil Adaptor elimination route. And I will put in poly motor mounts too.

Also on preventing the engine from surgeing forward, can see a solution. There is a heavy stamped metal covering over the motor mount, that does the mounting. If you were to drill 2-3 holes through it, lets say for 1/4" or 5/16" self tapping bolts, which bolts an additional plate that can be bolted on top that would go rearward to within 1/4" of where engine part that the MM bolt goes through. That way the engine can only surge forward 1/4" before it hits, protecting the new location of the oil filter which has about 1/2" clearance.

 

S14, your adaptor looks differemt than mine on 96, and maybe you were lucky on how tight it was. I got it with very easy solution, got a L TORX wrench, BUT had to put close to 2 feet of helper bar on it before it broke, well over 100lbs of torque, maybe over 150 lbs. So the torque varies from XJ to XJ. Thanks for posting that solution.

 

I have an 01 4.0 with the hex. Does anyone know the hex size?

Van