bigboy813

Idk but it has always been full when using 5 quarts if i remember correctly but this time i did a long drain peroid maybe that is why aswell as tilting my jeep forward because i used quaker and a flush oil.

bigboy813

Yup watched a video on it yesterday

On all most of my post no one has yet but i only preach what I hear so if I am incorrect well tell me what is really up.

redneckdrummer

good lord man just asking a question......

SamSissine2

I dont think he meant anything bad by it. I do believe that discussion has been brought up a lot where people state synthetic is bad because it will clean and cause leaks but that is not the case. Synthetics will clean and you may then have a leak but thats not because synthetics are bad but because the sludge that was causing the seal to fail but sludging it up. So from what I have read and believe there is nothing better then Synthetics and I believe Royal Purple to be the best, it even has the zinc that our engines need.

By the way Galatians 2:20 is a great verse, glad to see a brother in Christ on the boards.

dukie564

k+n = Mobil 1

98i6xj

Any recomendations for my xj with an i6?i live in phoenix, az and alot of people keep telling me to run 10w-40 bc of the heat and how hard the motors run.

dukie564

5w-30 is all i recommend.


Read though this - it's a bit of a long read, but will completely change the way you think about oil and how it affects your engine - and will clear up every "myth" you have ever heard.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/in...=article&id=84

89Laredo

Yup...
and theyre fricking EXPENSIVE. I dont see a reason to run it in a jeep unless its a pavement princess and youre doing like a 10,000 oci with synthetic.
Just get something like a napa (wix), purolator, or Motorcraft fl-1a (if you want larger). If you want a "expensive" filter, just get a non ecore bosch for around 6.50

This is why you dont get an ecore bosch:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06202&page=all

dukie564

mmmm tasty

89Laredo

yah...

If we can keep the typical "My oil and filter is so much better than yours!" crap out of here, this could be a pretty informative thread.

mentalbreakdown00

The name on oil and filters all most means nothing anymore. You need to investigate and learn before you decide to buy anything. I have been using prime gaurd filters for over 15 yrs now, non name brand, made in china and all. When you cut one apart, the filter media and amount looks the same as a wix, the contruction is very similar, no cardboard, all metal internals. The only thing I have found is the drain back valve seems to be a rubber or nitrile material, not silicon. I only find this to be a prob here in florida only if you wanna go 10K OCI's. But for the average Joe who needs to be in the shop every 3-5 moths because they don't check their tire pressures etc, it has served me very well. In this 15 yrs I have had 1, let me say that again 1, oil filter that leaked around the base gasket for some reason, replaced it with another, and never had a bad one since.
Now onto oil, I have used many different brands and wieghts of oil with different OCI's, and used UOA's alot. I do not even carry 10W30 in my shop anymore. I carry 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 5W40 Diesel (usually valvoline blue). As I have had results I have tested concur with everything Bob The Oil Guy has said in his oil 101 write up. I have settled on the accel brand in my shop for price, availability, and long service record, and UOA's. I carry their synthetics, and blow away most other shops prices for oil changes requiring 0W20, cost me about 4.25 a qt for the stuff!! This is just my .02$ from a not college educated idiot that has been repairing vehicles for 15 yrs now and graduated 3 different tech schools, has ASE master in both heavy truck and Auto with L1&2's, and has every Ford credit meaning any warranty paper needed to be signed if I worked at a Ford dealership I could sign saying I worked on it.

redneckdrummer

thanks for clarifying. and me too.

captainofiron

I have 285K on the clock, and I have always used Castrol conventional and a Fram toughguard.

No problems

Northwoods Snowman

My family has always used the Fram filters for our vehicles. Not sure what my dad is using currently, but I use the Tough Guard filter. We've never had any real problems with our engines. The 95 Grand Caravan my parents have has over 300K miles on it now, the 96 Chevy 1500 has a little over 200K, and my 96 Sunfire has over 200K on it. All still running strong, and original engines. My dad has typically used the SuperTech oil too for about as long as I can remember.

I think the more important thing is regular OCI's. If you keep the filter from clogging up and keep clean oil in the engine, you'll probably be fine no matter what you go with. We always change the oil at about 3K miles.

jcrom7295

I work for a transportation company ( Andrews Logistics )that hauls oil for all major oil companies. We pick up bulk loads from 3rd party mfg. as well as branded refineries and they all use the same addatives ( though I can't say in what quantities ) and we see plenty of instances where company brand A will produce a batch for company brand B straight from their refinery. I will leave it up to you to decide what this means for your particular brand of oil. it is the same thing in the Gas industry. The only difference is I will only buy gas from a large retailer, I have seen the small mom and pop retailers drop 1000 gallons of 87 in their 91 tank, or tell you to go ahead and drop with 4-5 inches of water in the bottom....national chains will not do this...A little off topic, but several people were also talking oil and I figured I would put my two cents in.