Oil filters... Im using fram i hear bad things
01-27-2011, 02:40 PM
#76
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Year: 1992
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Remember that the new oil filter is empty when you install it. That is why you have "extra" oil. That extra oil belongs in the filter.
.
01-27-2011, 02:50 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by Defiance665
Yup...
and theyre fricking EXPENSIVE. I dont see a reason to run it in a jeep unless its a pavement princess and youre doing like a 10,000 oci with synthetic.
Just get something like a napa (wix), purolator, or Motorcraft fl-1a (if you want larger). If you want a "expensive" filter, just get a non ecore bosch for around 6.50
This is why you dont get an ecore bosch:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06202&page=all
and theyre fricking EXPENSIVE. I dont see a reason to run it in a jeep unless its a pavement princess and youre doing like a 10,000 oci with synthetic.
Just get something like a napa (wix), purolator, or Motorcraft fl-1a (if you want larger). If you want a "expensive" filter, just get a non ecore bosch for around 6.50
This is why you dont get an ecore bosch:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06202&page=all
01-27-2011, 07:58 PM
#78
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I had a bad experience with Fram oil filters. Complete garbage. They don't play well with high volume oil pumps. Motorcraft for my ford and Mopar for the Mopars.
01-27-2011, 10:44 PM
#79
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Year: 2000 Sport
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Yup...
and theyre fricking EXPENSIVE. I dont see a reason to run it in a jeep unless its a pavement princess and youre doing like a 10,000 oci with synthetic.
Just get something like a napa (wix), purolator, or Motorcraft fl-1a (if you want larger). If you want a "expensive" filter, just get a non ecore bosch for around 6.50
This is why you dont get an ecore bosch:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06202&page=all
and theyre fricking EXPENSIVE. I dont see a reason to run it in a jeep unless its a pavement princess and youre doing like a 10,000 oci with synthetic.
Just get something like a napa (wix), purolator, or Motorcraft fl-1a (if you want larger). If you want a "expensive" filter, just get a non ecore bosch for around 6.50
This is why you dont get an ecore bosch:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06202&page=all
01-27-2011, 10:52 PM
#81
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01-31-2011, 10:19 AM
#83
I am the technical manager at Fram. The Fram Tough Guard filter you have been using filters oil at 99% efficiency using ISO 4548-12 test standards. Bosch filters still cling to the outdated SAE test standards to publish filter numbers. If you really want the very best in filtration, use the Fram Extended Guard filter with synthetic oil. That filter has a stainless steel mesh screen surrounded by two plies of synthetic glass media. It also has steel end caps, a silicone o ring and a silicone antidrainback valve, all for about 8$ at your local parts store. The Bosch equivelent "Distance" filter retails for 15$ Please do not subscribe to the internet tribal knowledge out there, we make 100 million oil filters a year, have been engineering and testing them for 75 years. We know how to make good filters.
01-31-2011, 10:30 AM
#85
filters
If your using Tough Guard you are changing your oil to often. TG filters have nearly 2x's the capacity (ability to trap and hold dirt) as a standard oil filter. If your using a quality oil, you can easily go 5k between oil changes unless you do all stop and go driving.
01-31-2011, 10:58 AM
#86
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Year: 1996
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If your using Tough Guard you are changing your oil to often. TG filters have nearly 2x's the capacity (ability to trap and hold dirt) as a standard oil filter. If your using a quality oil, you can easily go 5k between oil changes unless you do all stop and go driving.
01-31-2011, 10:59 AM
#87
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Bigboy,
I am the technical manager at Fram. The Fram Tough Guard filter you have been using filters oil at 99% efficiency using ISO 4548-12 test standards. Bosch filters still cling to the outdated SAE test standards to publish filter numbers. If you really want the very best in filtration, use the Fram Extended Guard filter with synthetic oil. That filter has a stainless steel mesh screen surrounded by two plies of synthetic glass media. It also has steel end caps, a silicone o ring and a silicone antidrainback valve, all for about 8$ at your local parts store. The Bosch equivelent "Distance" filter retails for 15$ Please do not subscribe to the internet tribal knowledge out there, we make 100 million oil filters a year, have been engineering and testing them for 75 years. We know how to make good filters.
I am the technical manager at Fram. The Fram Tough Guard filter you have been using filters oil at 99% efficiency using ISO 4548-12 test standards. Bosch filters still cling to the outdated SAE test standards to publish filter numbers. If you really want the very best in filtration, use the Fram Extended Guard filter with synthetic oil. That filter has a stainless steel mesh screen surrounded by two plies of synthetic glass media. It also has steel end caps, a silicone o ring and a silicone antidrainback valve, all for about 8$ at your local parts store. The Bosch equivelent "Distance" filter retails for 15$ Please do not subscribe to the internet tribal knowledge out there, we make 100 million oil filters a year, have been engineering and testing them for 75 years. We know how to make good filters.
Fram Extended Guard filter: 97% efficiency at 20 microns, 26g capacity ($9.99 Local price)
Fram Tough Guard Filter: 99% efficiency at 20 microns, ??g capacity ($6.99 Local price)
PureOne Filter: 99.9% Efficiency at 20 microns, 13g holding capacity ($6.39 Local price)
Bosch DistancePlus Filter: 99.9% efficiency at 20 microns, 29.1g holding capacity ($13.50 Local price)
I'm sorry, but the cheaper price of your products has no impact on my decision to use a filter that filters my oil completely. 97% efficiency is unacceptable regardless of how much it can hold.
Granted, i would still use your TG filters if I had no other choice, but I do have that choice.
01-31-2011, 11:04 AM
#88
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
If your using Tough Guard you are changing your oil to often. TG filters have nearly 2x's the capacity (ability to trap and hold dirt) as a standard oil filter. If your using a quality oil, you can easily go 5k between oil changes unless you do all stop and go driving.
01-31-2011, 11:06 AM
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If your using Tough Guard you are changing your oil to often. TG filters have nearly 2x's the capacity (ability to trap and hold dirt) as a standard oil filter. If your using a quality oil, you can easily go 5k between oil changes unless you do all stop and go driving.
Regardless of an oil's API service rating or additive package, all motor oils eventually wear out and have to be changed, its the additives that wear out more so than the oil. As the miles add up, motor oil loses viscosity and gets dirty. The oil no longer has the same viscosity range it had when it was new, and it contains a lot of gunk, moisture and acids from combustion blowby, soot, dirt and particles of metal from normal wear. You can't really tell much about the condition of the oil by its appearance alone because most oil turns dark brown or black after a few hundred miles of use.
Even so, after several thousand miles of driving many of the essential additives in the oil that control viscosity, oxidation, wear and corrosion are badly depleted. At this point, the oil begins to break down and provides much less lubrication and protection than when it was new. If the oil is not changed, the oil may start to gel or form engine damaging varnish and sludge deposits.
That is why experts recommend 3000 miles or six months, filters capacity has nothing to do with oils wearing down.
01-31-2011, 11:25 AM
#90
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3000 miles is recommended no matter what filter.
Regardless of an oil's API service rating or additive package, all motor oils eventually wear out and have to be changed, its the additives that wear out more so than the oil. As the miles add up, motor oil loses viscosity and gets dirty. The oil no longer has the same viscosity range it had when it was new, and it contains a lot of gunk, moisture and acids from combustion blowby, soot, dirt and particles of metal from normal wear. You can't really tell much about the condition of the oil by its appearance alone because most oil turns dark brown or black after a few hundred miles of use.
Even so, after several thousand miles of driving many of the essential additives in the oil that control viscosity, oxidation, wear and corrosion are badly depleted. At this point, the oil begins to break down and provides much less lubrication and protection than when it was new. If the oil is not changed, the oil may start to gel or form engine damaging varnish and sludge deposits.
That is why experts recommend 3000 miles or six months, filters capacity has nothing to do with oils wearing down.
Regardless of an oil's API service rating or additive package, all motor oils eventually wear out and have to be changed, its the additives that wear out more so than the oil. As the miles add up, motor oil loses viscosity and gets dirty. The oil no longer has the same viscosity range it had when it was new, and it contains a lot of gunk, moisture and acids from combustion blowby, soot, dirt and particles of metal from normal wear. You can't really tell much about the condition of the oil by its appearance alone because most oil turns dark brown or black after a few hundred miles of use.
Even so, after several thousand miles of driving many of the essential additives in the oil that control viscosity, oxidation, wear and corrosion are badly depleted. At this point, the oil begins to break down and provides much less lubrication and protection than when it was new. If the oil is not changed, the oil may start to gel or form engine damaging varnish and sludge deposits.
That is why experts recommend 3000 miles or six months, filters capacity has nothing to do with oils wearing down.
and 3000 miles is a myth, most oil change intervals now are closer to 5,000, I have even seen a 7500 oil change interval, and I have heard of some going even to 15,000 miles.
most people just have the 3000 miles ingrained in their minds as a nod back to the days of adjusting your points