spahr69

the only oil pan gasket my local autozone shop sells for my year is this guy...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...chText=oil+pan

5-90

NOTE TO ALL:
If you try to post a link to a part on one of these "e-tail" sites from a chain with national stores, we're starting all over again with the link. Please post the part number itself instead.

OP - if it's a Fel-Pro part number, and it ends with a "C", it's four-piece cork-and-rubber. If it ends in "R", it's one-piece moulded rubber.

Most chains are shortening their supply chain and only stocking the one-piece moulded rubber gasket - and I'm not sure, but Fel-Pro may have quit making the four-piece job entirely. It would make sense if they did...

spahr69

but is the one peice rubber anygood?

4Doors

Yes it's good and that's the one you want. Just don't over-torque the pan bolts or you'll cause it to leak.

5-90

I will use it on every 242ci I pull the sump from - whether it's my own, or it's paying work. I'm a perfectionist, and there's not a whole Hell of a lot that irritates me more than doing a job twice.

Does that tell you what you want to know?

rustytierod

If the bolts found in the very front (at timing cover inside gasket dip) are the smaller ones (1/4" thread, 7/16" wrench), should they be torqued to 84 in/lbs (spec) or 132 in/lbs (spec for 5/16" thread, 1/2" wrench)?

DaddyCat

84" / 12 = 7 foot lbs
132" / 12 = 11 foot lbs

rustytierod

Why wouldn't all 4.0 L AMC 242s have the larger threads up front?

5-90

They don't. None of them do. The oil sump screws that thread into the timing cover are all 1/4"-20x1/2".

rustytierod

Really. How do you explain this? Also found in other years.

Found in '97 TJ FSM, page 9-76:

5-90

They changed the front cover, then.

The later gasket still has holes sized to hold 1/4" screws - I've used enough of them to know that. That's what I was basing that statement on.

Did you find that those screws were indeed 5/16"-18, or are you just going from the FSM page? After all, even the FSM can be wrong (they kept recommending the use of GL-5 gear oil in the AX-15, vice the GL-3 that the thing really wants...)

rustytierod

Are you talking about the "later" one-piece gasket, like the fel-pro (blue)? Ummm because the grommets all look the same size to me, infact they would take a bolt a helluva alot bigger than 4 or 5/16th.

I own a '97 XJ and TJ, and both my pans indeed have 1/4" in the location in question. However, the TJ FSM says 5/16 should be there, while the XJ FSM says 1/4 should be. Weird.

I would expect a FSM to have some errors, but as far as what "the thing really wants" sounds more subjective to me than de-facto bolt size locations.

5-90

Hm. I wonder if the gasket stamping changed, then.

And "what the thing really wants" isn't subjective - the added sulphur as an EP lube in the GL-5 gear oil is antagonistic to yellow metal - and the synchroniser rings in the AX-15 are bronze. Nothing subjective about it - at elevated temperatures, sulphur attacks copper, and the synchronisers will dissolve. This is shown as "gold glitter" in the oil when you drain it.

"Performance synthetic" GL-5-rated gear oil often uses something other than sulphur as an EP lube - but sulphur is cheap, so it's still used in conventional oil.

GL-3 has low to no added sulphur, and is therefore just fine in the AX-15. You can run GL-5 in the BA-10, simply because the synchronisers in the BA-10 are aluminum and not bronze.

Nope - nothing subjective about it. Simple chemistry. (GL-5 is needed in the axles because they're under more stress, and they don't use yellow metal as a result.)

rustytierod

Interesting. So the transmission might last 100k vs 200k? How hot before that sulfur attacks the gearbox? 250F ish?