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oil pan and fire

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Old 08-05-2020, 06:16 PM
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100% sure. I’m watching it come out. Feels bad man.
Old 08-05-2020, 06:21 PM
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:35 PM
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Somabish you were right. It’s the oil filter adapter.
Old 08-05-2020, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by xxEuroBabexx
Somabish you were right. It’s the oil filter adapter.
The worst part is the oil pan was probably fine, having been seriously glued in place....
Old 08-06-2020, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by xxEuroBabexx
Somabish you were right. It’s the oil filter adapter.
After having 5 XJs and a couple Wranglers, I have learned a few things. Most of the time the hard way haha.
Old 08-06-2020, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by xxEuroBabexx
Somabish you were right. It’s the oil filter adapter.
That's why I wrote this years ago. And, STP filters suck!!CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS

OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.


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Old 08-08-2020, 03:39 PM
  #37  
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Thanks guys but It was leaking from the RMS, the oil pan, and valve cover before I changed all the gaskets. Every place I parked it looked like a murder scene. After the gaskets were changed the last leak was the adapter seals.

Last edited by xxEuroBabexx; 08-08-2020 at 03:41 PM.
Old 10-14-2020, 12:20 PM
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Hello,

Reading this thread now and I just wanted to say that I think this whole thread should be printed out and put on the wall. Seriously I laughed the entire time I read this XD. The fact that Cruiser even came in at the very end to scold you about your STP filter had me dying.
Old 10-14-2020, 12:55 PM
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I'm going through this process myself for all of my leaks. My engine is COATED in oil...
Things I've done so far -
CCV gaskets (the two rings on tip of the valve cover) were pouring oil out of them,
oil filter adapter o-rings
transmission pan gasket (and filter)
front and rear diffs

Things to do:
oil pan gasket and oil pan (the drain plug is cross threaded of course, so just replacing the whole dang thing).
Rear main seal - not 100% sure if leaking but if I'm doing the oil pan, might as well, it doesn't take that much longer to do.
Distributor o-ring.
Power steering lines

I think that's all the leaks I have. We'll see soon enough.
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